Need help from the ingenuitive folks of the OB.

My driveway is very steep at the bottom where it meets the street - I am at the end of a cul-de-sac and have the storm drain in the middle of driveway/street interface. We have a Class C Motorhome that we back into the driveway when packing for a trip, performing maintenance etc. Due to the long overhang it wont make the slope without some type of ramps. I built some wood ramps that work, but they are heavy and hard to move/store and after 1 year are starting to split.


There has got to be a better solution. The biggest problem is that the RV is heavy - GVWR 14,500 - so the ramps have to be strong enough to support a lot of weight. I can't find anything "off the shelf" but may not be searching the correct name/keywords - any ideas?

I am thinking Steel or aluminium (aluminium ramps would be the lightest) but they would have to engineered to fit the dimensions - I have no idea where to start to find a shop that could that. I have tried to come up with a design with dimensions/measurements but doubt I am measuring accurately enough or in the right places.

The only other idea I have is somehow putting wheels on at least one end of the existing wood ramps. I just can't figure out how to mount them so they won't be in the way of the RV tires etc.

Anyone been down this road and found something that works? Any idea what type of machine shop could do this (I am in West Houston/Katy area)?

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

1. That is an awesome setup.
2. You could move them with car Dolly's

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html

3. To fab up a set, a boat shop that builds aluminum fishing towers could fab you up a set. You would have to take them your existing ramps so they could use them as the pattern to fit your driveway. Something like this below, except custom. Now make no mistake. They will be heavy, maybe as heavy or heavier as the wood, but they will look cool.

https://www.intercompracing.com/quik-rack-lightweight-scale-rack-includes-levelers-p-10009.html


I'll keep thinking of solutions.

With the 30 foot race car trailer had the same problem backing it up to load it. Easiest solution was to make wood ramps like you did. Cheap, easy to replace....downside is they are heavy. I used car Dolly's to move them into place.

https://www.etrailer.com/search/Trailer+Skid+Wheels

...as long as there's enough travel in your rear suspension so that the wheels aren't spinning in the air.

I think I have too much elevation diff for these - but I like where your headed.

Thanks for the help.

Keep 'em coming. Thanks for the help.

After thinking about it. I honestly believe the boards are the best option.

Aluminum fabbed ramps are going to be heavy,,,,expensive...and NOT load tested. They the shop will over engineer them which adds to weight and cost,

Aluminum ramps basically start off as a flat piece of metal. They then would trace your slope from your existing boards and cut the bracing to match. They better match the driveway dip perfect or weld will pop. So two sides but to reinforce them they will need to add bracing, More weight, more cost.

Boards are easy to replace. They work. I'll keep thinking. But I remembered that I gave up on the race trailer and just used boards

Depends on how much money you want to spend on these. Any aluminum or steel ramps you have made will be expensive due to shop hours to build. It looks like the wood ones work well. You just need to figure out how to make them easier to move. I would take a 2x4 and attach wheels to it. When you want to move, place the 2x4 under your ramps and screw them in. Lift the other end and transport.

Take a look at TrueGrid...they are 4'x4' sections that weigh about 15 pounds each, not sure if they are stackable, but can be cut to size. They are more for permanent installations, but I don't see why a few pieces couldn't be moved around and used as necessary

https://www.truegridpaver.com/products/mack/

Thanks for that link. May need one day

Silly question... Can you pull in (instead of back in) and not scrape? Often the breakover angles on approach and departure are different because that front axle is a lot further forward.

Consider wrapping your existing ramps with galvanized wire (slick fencing, double strands) in several places. That should help keep them intact for as long as you need them. Make sure you get the wrap tight.

Whats the best way to attach the wire? How do i pull the wire tight - can I twist it to tighten?

rsmithtesiusa said:

---

Whats the best way to attach the wire? How do i pull the wire tight - can I twist it to tighten?

---

Correct! Make a couple of wraps, then twist the ends together. After you get it hand tight, use a metal rod, or old screwdriver to twist the wire until you can't anymore. This will not keep the wood from splitting, but it'll slow it down, and keep the boards intact indefinitely.

Use water seal and or paint the boards next time your build them.

Great idea on the rubber mats. I think I need too much height to use them to solve driveway problem, but last trip out had trouble leveling with ramps/block sliding.....

Use 4x4 posts with the 2x12 on top. Will be lighter.
Soak in/ Cover with oil based stain.

So 4" x 4" for the bottom layers and cap with the 2" x 12"? How should I hook it all together?

rsmithtesiusa said:

---

So 4" x 4" for the bottom layers and cap with the 2" x 12"? How should I hook it all together?

---

That's an excellent plan for new ramps, but yours should last a long time yet, with a little TLC. Burnt lube (old engine oil) also is a good wood protector from moisture damage. An alternative to the wire is metal banding, like that used in shipping and securing items to pallets. No idea where yo might get that done for a small fee, but someone else will...

https://www.uline.com/Grp_59/Steel-Strapping

You're thinking something like this To strap together.

The tools alone are going to be 200 plus for bottom of the line standard. You'll need a tensioner, sealer and cutters

https://www.uline.com/BL_3553/Standard-Steel-Strapping-Tools

Unless you're gonna go on a steel strapping banding spree, 200 on tools alone doesn't make sense.

I see you used bolts to bind the boards together, why not use bolts again.

I think your board design is excellent. Simple, easy to fix/replace.

I went by the fab shop at Valero today. They have everything. Picked up a piece of aluminum that is about the same length as your longest ramp. I then tried to piece in my mind what it would take to match thickness. The weight will be far heavier than your boards.

SteveMedina said:

---

https://www.uline.com/Grp_59/Steel-Strapping

You're thinking something like this To strap together.

---

That's it! It's relatively cheap, bought in bulk, but requires a special crimping tool. Somebody might do it for a six pack or case of beer for their time/trouble. The materials you'd use aren't worth $5. But you'd hafta haul the ramps somewhere to get it done. That's first class!

My suggestion to use slick wire is a "poor man's" solution, and almost as good, but requires more time and effort, and you'd likely hafta buy more wire than you need, making it even more expensive. Banding is ideal if you can find someone to slap it on there for you.

They certainly love their tools looking at the pricing of them. Sobs

How much bolt would you need. Found some 20 inch carriage bolts.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Carriage_bolts_Stainless_steel_18-8_3_4-10.aspx

Jeeeeezs...31 a bolt? Cmon bolt depot!

Wood is a great solution here. It's cheap, it works and the best part is that it will flex to form-fit the elevation change while aluminum would not. I'd do what others have suggested and wrap it periodically with bailing wire (tie on the bottom and then beat the tie end into the wood to make it flush). For handles, on both ends, I would drill two holes and run a section of rope through it (like an upside down U), and tie knots on the bottom side to create a flexible handle to help you carry the boards. Make sure the rope is thick enough to make it comfortable to carry. Don't use paracord.

Also- how are you storing the ramps? Keeping them elevated and out of the rain, sun will make them last longer.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the info.

I talked to a fab shop a buddy recommended - the "friends rate" looks like around $1K for steel and $2K for aluminum....

Looks like wrapping/reinforcing the wood is the best solution.....

Like the handles & dollies ideas for moving.

The storage is the problem - the boards are 9' - 10' long and I dont have room in the garage. I do have a concrete area beside my garage that has a small gate so not visible from street. Probably the best I can do is store them on the dollies to keep them up off the ground. Would covering them with a tarp be a good idea? Seems like moisture/humidity would still get in and the tarp would prevent them from ever drying out - they would be constantly wet?

Only thing I would like to change on the boards would be to make them wider. The 12" wide works but I have to be really careful - someone has to spot for me. One time I came off the side of one (luckily at the end so nothing dragged) and the board twisted sideways and jammed between frame and driveway. Had to jack up the front end of the MH to get it out. Was real lucky it didn't hit any suspension components or anything else important...

Any Ideas on how to widen them? The widest 2" x I can find is 14" - and they are high $$!. Maybe alternating layers of 3/4" plywood and 2"x8" to get it to 16" wide? Something like this?


Any of you construction/carpenter guys have any ideas?

How about storing them underneath the stored RV?

As for widening, consider cutting plywood to match the profile and screw them on layer by layer onto both sides.

Metal banding will break as the RV flexes the wood. It's not very strong.

In HS & summer breaks, I worked in a factory and used a lot of it.

Some 2"x1/4" flat bar, a vice and a drill and you can make up banding that will last forever without having to mess with wire or anything special.

As far as moving them, make a couple of quick and easy dolley attachments for one end that you put on when you need to move them, take off when they are in place. On the other end, drill a hole where you an insert a t-handle to move them with. Dont over think this.

see my post just above yours - is that what you are talking about?

Just scab some 2x material on the side vertically. It doesn't have to match the profile 100% as it's not really taking much of the load - the center of the boards are bearing the weight of the RV.

1/4" lag bolts, countersink if you want, minimum embedment of 3" into the main boards. You are making this much harder than it really needs to be. You have 95% of the work done already.