So some of the guys/gals who will reply on here have really high budgets for their camera "toys".

My travel camera is a Canon S110 that i bought for $100. Fits in my pocket.
Olympus TG4 for underwater photography
Canon 70D with the big lenses.

Personally I am unwilling to spend too much for something that is not my primary rig.

Dubi knows more than me about underwater stuff.

I would suggest Fuji for lightweight travel stuff.

The Sony RX100 series has a dedicated underwater housing which is reasonably cheap.

The TG4 does not need a housing for snorkeling. It will go to 50' without a housing. You will be disappointed in your photography experience if you expect it to be like your big camera.

I'd get a GoPro for UW and then a nice point and shoot for land.

Guitarsoup said:

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Dubi knows more than me about underwater stuff.

I would suggest Fuji for lightweight travel stuff.

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Consider underwater a stretch goal...bonus points if you will.

dubi said:

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You will be disappointed in your photography experience if you expect it to be like your big camera.

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I've had some of those smaller cameras with fixed lens in the past and they were never fast enough for me focus wise to be acceptable. I was thinking more along the lines of a smaller mirrorless system with interchangeable lens. Something maybe along the lines of Canon M6 size...but I have no clue how Canon's lineup like that compares to other companies.

I was going to say the Olympus OMD EM5 or PEN-F might be worth looking at. The one weakness will be night street photos since noise becomes noticeable around ISO 1000 in these cameras. Both currently are around $1K or less, and have a great selection of small prime lens to choose from (Panasonic and Olympus m4/3 lens).

javajaws said:

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OK oh educated ones, I haven't shopped cameras in awhile so I'm not up to speed on the latest and greatest. My main camera is a 5dmkIII with a few EF L lenses. But that's a big and heavy rig so I'm shopping for a "street kit" for some international travel. What I'm looking for is:

- Light/compact (but not too compact)
- Needs to have quick enough response (autofocus/etc) for quick street action (no sports speeds needed)
- An available lens good enough for nighttime street photography (think Bangkok, etc.)
- Possible availability of a housing for underwater photography (snorkeling)
- Video capable

Thoughts / suggestions?

I'm open to non-Canon gear as well.

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Used u43 body for $300 and high end u43 zoom for $500 or prime for $300.

U43 video capabilities are well documented.

You can pick up a low shutter actuation Panasonic GH4 for $600. Couple that with a f1.7 or f1. 8 prime for $300 and you can shoot in low light just fine.

Here is a thread of my Europe trip with 1 small u43 body and 1 zoom lens. Panasonic GX7 with Panasonic 12-35mm f2. 8

1 body 1 lens

I bought a used Olympus OMD EM5 for this very reason. I have been happy with it

Quote:

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sort through 7700 pictures

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I quit shooting sports years ago because I hated sorting through 500-750. I thought that was spray and pray.

Speaking of 1000's of sport photos...
https://petapixel.com/2018/04/13/hours-of-sport-events-photoshopped-into-dizzying-single-photos/

That is sweet

Mike Kelley (the guy who did the top one) is a good friend of mine, he did similar images at airports all over the world in the same style, here's the website if anyone wants to take a further look: http://www.mpkelley.com/portfolio_cat/a-airportraits/

javajaws said:

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OK oh educated ones, I haven't shopped cameras in awhile so I'm not up to speed on the latest and greatest. My main camera is a 5dmkIII with a few EF L lenses. But that's a big and heavy rig so I'm shopping for a "street kit" for some international travel. What I'm looking for is:

- Light/compact (but not too compact)
- Needs to have quick enough response (autofocus/etc) for quick street action (no sports speeds needed)
- An available lens good enough for nighttime street photography (think Bangkok, etc.)
- Possible availability of a housing for underwater photography (snorkeling)
- Video capable

Thoughts / suggestions?

I'm open to non-Canon gear as well.

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What about an SL2 with a 24mm pancake? Added bonus of serving as a backup to your 5diii.

SD Card recommendations for a Pana GH4, mostly video (4K) use. Right now looking at SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s cards in 64G. Anything better for that application?

91AggieLawyer said:

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SD Card recommendations for a Pana GH4, mostly video (4K) use. Right now looking at SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s cards in 64G. Anything better for that application?

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I have >30k exposures on a Sandisk Extreme Pro 128gb without even 1 problem. I've purchased a replacement and it is in my camera bag.

Sandisk is probably your best bet.

91AggieLawyer said:

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SD Card recommendations for a Pana GH4, mostly video (4K) use. Right now looking at SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s cards in 64G. Anything better for that application?

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I have used PNY for the past 2 to 3 years for all my u43 and Sony pictures and videos. It has never failed me.

Sandisk Extreme Pro has been good to me.

So I've read through a lot of this thread trying to find if we've discussed post-processing steps, and can't find anything, and I'm thread-fatigued. I know 'Soup has gone over his before, but that may have been in the old thread.

My process sucks, honestly, because I normally don't shoot a large amount at once. But when I do, I get bogged down really easily (still not done with last year's 1300 shot Maine trip). I've been using RawTherapee because I'm a cheap *******, but I'm starting to kick around getting the Adobe subscription because I think I like LR's interface a bit better, and there are way more tutorials for LR than RT. Do you guys sort through your photos first and just toss the ones you don't even wanna fart with, or do you process them first and see what comes out?

I use LR CC Classic and will probably be migrating to Capture One 11 over the summer.

In regards to importing, I will import my session, assign star ratings to "keepers", and then work on editing only those. It's way too much work to try and cull from the file system pre-import...you need the tools to be able to quickly enlarge and move on that LR gives you.

I also make a conscious effort to not spray and pray when I shoot. It's very rare that I come back from an outing with more than 200-300 photos. A little extra time and care when shooting saves me a ton of time on the backend. Obviously doesn't apply for sports/birding where you need to fire off bursts and hope for the best.

I have not bought into subscription model, yet.

I'm hanging on to PS CS6 as long as I can. Even using DNG converter to convert RAW files that are no longer supported by my PS.

I can flip through a thousand or more pictures pretty quickly to identify what I want to process. Then process one at a time. I don't mind this process.

I have past 18 years of digital photos I have taken stored in External HDs. Most photos are of the family and friends. Probably one of the first things I will grab if the house catches on fire. One day I'll store them in a cloud storage. Its about 3 TBs.

I use PhotoMechanic to sort/cull the images.

Then Lightroom for color adjustments and volume adjustments.

Last Photoshop for fine tune stuff.


You can use Bridge instead of PhotoMechanic, it just isn't as quick. Bridge comes with the Adobe Photographer subscription ($10/mo, includes Bridge, Photoshop, Lightroom.)

I used to do most of my editing in lightroom, but as I've done more and more exposure blending I am now almost entirely in photoshop. My landscape stuff usually involves a lot of editing, but I usually filter out what shots I want to edit in lightroom by going through them all and assigning them star values. I then just filter what I want to edit. I almost never edit more than a small fraction of my shots.

Can anyone reccomend a good circular polarizer for a wide angle lens?

What mm thread? Number should be on the outside of your lens. Something like 72mm, 77mm, 82mm

77mm

I have this exact one and it was great and really sharp. I use it very infrequently. Like every few years.

https://amzn.to/2Fhf0lI

Thanks!

I want to play around with one to see if it helps with haze at all.

Remember that shooting with a polarizer with the sun in your face does nothing...have to shoot 90 degrees away from the sun for max benefits, and you'll likely end up with an uneven blue in your sky.