Hey guys, all this talk of Chinon the other night got me thinking about giving y'all a write-up about our recent trip to the Loire Valley in France. We spend 4 days in the LV prior to hitting up Paris for a week and while visiting the sites we hit up 3 wineries:
Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups/Domaine de la Butte (winemaker Jacky Blot) - Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC
Jacky Blot is known for his Chenin Blanc but also produces some tasty Cab Franc under the name Domaine de la Butte. He lives in Montlouis but has some vines in Vouvray right across the river. There are some weird AOC rules recently passed in Vouvray that prohibit him from calling his Vouvray-grown grapes Vouvray because he makes the wine in Montlouis. Instead, he has to list them as Vin de France (These kinds of rules don't exist in most other AOCs in France). Kind of interesting- some of the wine laws in France are baffling to me; very political. This article outlines it more detail:
http://punchdrink.com/articles/montlouis-sur-loire-vs-vouvray-wine-chenin-blanc-battleground/Highlights from the tasting at Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups:
NV Triple Zero Montlouis Petillant Chenin Blanc: Jacky's sparkling wine. This is a Brut Nature style wine--no added dosage after second fermentation and spending time on the lees. This was really special. Bought a bottle at the winery and consumed a few days later. Will definitely be on the lookout for another bottle here in the states.
2014 Clos de Venise Monopole Chenin Blanc VdF: This is grown in Vouvray but must be called Vin de France due to the AOC laws. Grabbed a bottle of this at the winery. A good alternative if you can't snag a bottle of the Clos de Mosny as they are structured very similarly. I don't think this will have quite the longevity of the Mosny but it can certainly last. Won't be drinking this one for quite a while and I think it will only improve with time.
2014 Bourgueil Mi-Pente Cab Franc (Domaine de la Butte): Cab Franc grown at higher elevation on Domaine de la Butte. Pure, focused CF--just had this at the winery but I think would be even better with food.
2014 Clos de Mosny Monopole Chenin Blanc Montlouis-sur-Loire: definitely the best of the bunch. This wine is highly allocated and was only able to get a taste at the winery. Bummed I wasn't able to buy a bottle from the winery, but luckily I found it a few days later in Paris. I'm holding on to this one for at least 10 years.
Domaine Bernard Baudry - Chinon AOC (winemaker: Matthieu Baudry)
This is where we hit the biggest language barrier. I speak almost no French and my wife only speaks a little. The woman who did our tasting also didn't speak much English so there wasn't a lot of talking during this tasting. She was still very nice and opened up their cave for us after the tasting and that was pretty awesome. They also let us walk through the vines after as well.
Highlights from our tasting at Bernard Baudry:
2013 Le Clos Guillot Chinon: not from particularly old vines (est. 1993 to 2000) but very well made and has great structure. I've had this a few times here in the states--this vintage needs at least 5 more years to truly open up.
2013 Le Croix Boissee Chinon: Baudry's top cuvee and it definitely shows. This had incredible length. Bought a bottle and will be putting in the cellar for at least a decade, maybe more. Baudry's wines are truly something special if you can get your hands on one that has some age on it.
Domaine des Roches Neuves (winemaker - Thierry Germain): -- Saumur-Champigny AOC
Roches Neuves was definitely the best tasting we went to. We tasted with Thierry's son Louis and it lasted well over an hour. We were able to taste through almost the entire portfolio (I think the only thing we didn't taste was their amphora-aged wines because they currently didn't have any available). They produce wines made with Cab Franc and Chenin Blanc.
Highlights from our tasting at Domaine des Roches Neuves:
2014 Terres Chaude Cab Franc Saumur-Champigny: Wow, this was really good. Intense minerality. If I remember correctly, these grapes are grown in the "Les Poyeux" vineyard in Saumur. The most famous Cab Franc producer in the world, Clos Rougeard, also has a cuvee that uses grapes sourced from this vineyard.
2013 La Marginale Cab Franc Saumur-Champigny: Like cherry pie in a glass. Incredible. Low-yield CF with intense flavor concentration.
2013 Franc de Pied Cab Franc Saumur-Champigny: This was cool because there aren't a lot of wine makers growing Franc de Pied rootstock anymore. Franc de Pied is original French Cab Franc rootstock--I think it's the only one (or one of the only ones) left that is originally from France and not rootstock that came from American rootstock after the Phylloxera epidemic that terrorized most of the vineyards in France in the late 18th/early 19th century. Like the American rootstock, Franc de Pied is also naturally Phylloxera-resistant (when planted in sandy soil). Kinda cool.
2013 Les Memoires Cab Franc Saumur-Champigny: One of the best Cab Francs I have ever tasted. Vines are 110 years old. This has so many years of life ahead of it. I would love to taste this in 20 or 30 years.
2012 Clos Romans Chenin Blanc Saumur-Champigny: The best Chenin Blanc I have ever tasted, hands down. Comes from vines in a Clos that dates back to the 11th century. The vines aren't that old but this wine truly is something special. According to Louis, there are only like 50 or so cases made of this wine each vintage. Vines are planted at a higher density per hectare using selection massale.
I had previously had wine from all the wine makers we visited. When I mentioned that to the owners/workers they always seemed to open up. It went a long way with them to know that I had already had their wine and enjoyed it (This led to more wine being offered as well as tours of the caves at Baudry and Roches Neuves. Started with three pours at Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, mentioned that I had tasted their wine before, and that resulted in tasting their entire portfolio).
I highly recommend going to the Loire if you are in France, especially if you are planning on visiting Paris anyway. It's only a few hours drive away and that part of the country is really gorgeous (good wine and good people too).