I need to replace my water heater and the current setup will not work with the replacement. Currently the relief valve is on the side of the unit and the new one will be on the top.

Currently the relief line is run in to the wall to a drain I am not 100% sure I have located. The drip pan drain is also running in to the wall. Both may terminate in the same place on the outside of the wall they run in to, which is pictured below.

Doing some poking around, I believe my best bet may be to run the new relief valve line directly down to the new drip tray and plug the line Currently running in to the wall. I believe there are some code requirements with running the line in to the wall and it also runs the risk of clogging and not allowing the drain to function properly if it over activates.

I also don't believe I can run braided steel flex hose directly to the rv, and I have never sweat copper before. I could do pex but I dont have the expansion tool handy right now and I dont believe I am allowed to use the crimp style due to ID of piping differential.

What do you think, just run the line down to drip pan with an air gap and cap the waiting drain line?

That copper is always going to be filled with water. Didn't think that was allowed.

I'd run PVC from the new valve on top of the heater to the same location as the the drain pan discharge outside. I'd put a new hole in the wall instead of draining to the pan. Then push the flex hose into the wall and patch the hole. Draining to the pan should work if don't plan to sell, but I think that's against code and would likely have to be fixed later.

I'm also curious about how that conduit is attached to the wall and if that's allowed. If an uncut wire runs from the wall all the way to the water heater in the conduit, I think it's ok. But check to make sure a wire wasn't cut and spliced/connected just inside the wall. Put the splice in an wall box if it's only connected with wire nuts inside the wall.

There's a junction box in the wall and it appears wires are spliced there and running through the conduit.

We are planning on living here 20 years. Not sure I see the issue with running it in to the drain line in this instance. Total drain run length from pan to outlet is about 3 feet with about 2.5 of that accessible in the closet.

Well this is annoying, the relief valve is facing the wrong direction and I dont want to torque on it.

The t&p drain is not suppose to run up hill. But on T&P i have replaced the water pressure was still letting them drain uphill even plumbed wrong. I would start by using solid stainless supply lines on the new one. I would also ditch the hardwired approach and add a 220 plug at that junction for a proper service disconnect. On the t&p you could use this and dump to pan as long as the pan drains outside.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-NPT-x-60-in-Polypropylene-Center-Top-Mount-Drain-Tube-for-Tank-Type-Water-Heaters-EB11956B/204834466

Also I would put this in the pan with a lithium 9 volt battery

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Basement-Watchdog-Battery-Operated-Water-Alarm-Sump-Accessory-BWD-HWA/100038838

The t&p drain should be hard metal or cpvc but not a flex line like yours is.

Sea Speed said:

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There's a junction box in the wall and it appears wires are spliced there and running through the conduit.

We are planning on living here 20 years. Not sure I see the issue with running it in to the drain line in this instance. Total drain run length from pan to outlet is about 3 feet with about 2.5 of that accessible in the closet.

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if the valve does open, is that pointing out onto a deck or something? seems like spraying hot water there is not the best idea.

i would also not point it down into the pan with an air gap, because again blowing pressurized water there is going to make a huge mess, plus again the risk of spraying hot water

Yes. It terminates outside on a deck

That vertical copper is against code…



504.6 Requirements for Discharge Piping
The discharge piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof shall:
Not be directly connected to the drainage system.
Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater.
Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap.
Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment.
Discharge to the floor, to the pan serving the water heater or storage tank, to a waste receptor or to the outdoors.
Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage.
Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
Not be trapped.
Be installed so as to flow by gravity.
Terminate not more than 6 inches (152 mm) above and not less than two times the discharge pipe diameter above the floor or flood level rim of the waste receptor.
Not have a threaded connection at the end of such piping.
Not have valves or tee fittings.
Be constructed of those materials listed in Section 605.4 or materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1.