We're getting "close" to the finish line and there's discussion about being ready for a blue tape walk thru.

There's still a lot of work to be done, IMHO.

My biggest concern is that the whole house interior paint shows flashing in every room and every wall. This is supposed to be SW eggshell. This is their second attempt to fix it. Do you accept it or make them try again? My confidence is low that they can get paint applied correctly.

These pics are from earlier in the process but shows what I'm seeing.

You probably know what to check for but we plan on using this for our blue tape walk WHEN THAT DAY EVER FRIGGIN COMES!!!

Builder Brigade Blue Tape Checklist

When I look at that Two. things One is does not look like they sanded the bed edges good enough

2nd. Could be they did sand and instead if sanding mud sanded sheetrock and roughed up the sheetrock

I speak from experience on th both and neither one can be fixed

Here is what I would try which they probably will not do

Bed entire wall smallest one there and texture and prime and paint

Second idea. Try priming with seal grip and repaint sometimes if sanding is the problem may work


It will never be better not even over time the only way it gets better is by 40 watt light bulbs That is a joke

Is it typical to have a gap on top like that, between door frame and door opening?

spike427 said:

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Is it typical to have a gap on top like that, between door frame and door opening?

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NO. That's some exceptionally <feces>y framing. Even the trim will be floating.

Also There's something seriously wrong with that paint. My first inclination was that it was rolled and done with a too dry roller, but they really should have been spraying this. If it was sprayed then as others have alluded to it could be wall texture.

ALSO... Document your blue tape. I've seen tales of builders coming through behind you and simply removing the blue tape (this was done when an independent inspector did the blue taping). Speaking of which... Use an independent inspector.

I don't think this is a drywall issue.

Max - I'd go visit your local SW and share the images with them. Even better if you have snapshots of the bucket labels.

It could also be a really cheap primer. If the primer looked like that the paint would have too

Does the builder think that looks ok?

Yes
Door trim will go over

Still using these specs given us & true-custom home builders in-the-day.
Indeed Devoe & Ben.Moore costs more but saves on labor that is not forced into re-dos; even decorators are impressed with finish & coverage/hiding.


DEVOE PAINT (or EQUAL must be proven), AS PER BRAND LISTED
INTERIOR GYP. BOARD RECEIVES: 1 COAT Devoe High Hiding Wall Primer/Sealer; 2 COATS Wonder-Tones Interior Eggshell Latex Enamel (Scrubbable)

Hope that helps ...

Would you agree that it's probably a primer problem?

The photos suggest one should not disagree with primer as suspect but
if it were I,
would like purchase evidence & application methods from builder or via my architect, interior.designer, if any or the free paint store decorator before going forward with corrections.

Also, if this is not a true customs-only builder, then a visit to some of their spec.house's interior paint jobs might be in order to compare what is SOP.

All of us would love to learn all the details how OP arrived in this fix, the problem ID'd via evidence & on site inspections, then the solution that made smiles ... sooner or later.

Thanks for the affirmation guys.

I'll try to dig up the nightmare thread that summarizes some of the earlier debacle-

ETA:

https://texags.com/forums/61/topics/3367921#64476708

OMG
Once all done - please - for the protection of the rest of us - publish a complaint naming names on BBB (Austin "serves" Aggieland now)
This might take more than a lawyer, more like "I know a guy that knows a guy"

Love to hear/read "the rest of the story" from beginning to end someday ... you seem too smart to be in this mess

maddiedou said:

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And this is a sheet rock problem not a paint problem

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Agree. Needed a skim coat of mud on the drywall before applying texture and paint.

Skim coat over a textured finish?

That triggers me

When we sold our last home I needed more touch up paint. The company still carried what we used when building and I'd restocked several times over the years but had run out. I run through the house touching up spots on every wall in every room. To my horror when it dried from an angle you could see every touch up (but not when facing directly). The paint on my walls had changed slightly with time, or their formula had changed. With 2 story entry hall and a stair case going up to the semi-open room above I could never repaint the house myself. It would cost a fortune to hire a painter.

After much experimenting I finally came up with a technique that worked. I'd put primer on each spot in a non-random pattern (think red hot chili peppers log - every direction). Once dry i'd do the same thing with the pain over the primer. I think the ultimate reason it worked is that it slowly spread the new into the old so there was no definitive start/end that would catch your eye.

jt2hunt said:

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You do not need a level 5 finish to get a great looking painted wall. Level 5 is a great finish.

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Call it level 4 or level 5 or whatever, the point I was making with the video is the raw drywall paper surface and the portions that were taped and floated have a different texture/appearance in natural light. This can be prevented/fixed with just a thin skim coat of lightweight mud across all wall board before adding the texture and paint.

I'm also not a painter but I did paint a few parts of houses to make ends meet when I was laid off a while back. My buddy and I did it because by buddy owned a painting business when he was younger. I was instructed by him on how to properly roll a wall and overlap wet paint to prevent off looking appearances when dry. He also taught me how to repair drywall at my own house. This could be both, as everyone has said. Personally, I feel like you could go back with texture and then paint properly. Would that not solve his issue?

Aggietaco said:

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P.H. Dexippus said:

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jt2hunt said:

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You do not need a level 5 finish to get a great looking painted wall. Level 5 is a great finish.

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Call it level 4 or level 5 or whatever, the point I was making with the video is the raw drywall paper surface and the portions that were taped and floated have a different texture/appearance in natural light. This can be prevented/fixed with just a thin skim coat of lightweight mud across all wall board before adding the texture and paint.

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Which is the reason pva primer is used. No need for skim coat unless you are going to L5.

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This exactly

I'll state it's another problem and it could be primer or paint - they are spraying and whoever their sprayer is sucks. He/she are spraying in an arc and not a straight line. Get a roller and roll it even.....