We have a situation where our master bedroom gets barely adequate air flow/volume, and due to its location and construction it would be difficult and expensive to remedy. Several AC contractors have recommended, and I agree, that a mini split would be a great solution. The problem is the bedroom is located literally as far as it could be away from our main electrical panel (100' + straight line), so running 220 service will be a significant cost. We do have more than adequate 110 capacity on that end of the house to handle adding a mini split. The room is around 300 sq/ft.

I have had several AC contractors look at installing a mini split, but mixed opinions on 110 units in general and their capacity to handle the space.

Does anyone have any experience with 110 units or expertise in mini slits in general? Any advice appreciated.

I installed a 12k Mr Cool in my workshop. It is 110V, but have a dedicated breaker. 400 Sqft and 8 ft high ceilings. Specs say the 12k is good for 500 sqft. Works great. 100% dependent on the space you're trying to cool. I also suspect you need a dedicated circuit due to the current draw.

You have the answer with WhiteTail since it's only a room, not more.

That said, seems the EZ fast answer would be a 110v plug-in window AC (can be trhough the wall) for summer
IF the air flow carries enough heat to that room in winter.
Most all Texas HVAC are over designed with heat, so it's only the air flow a concern.
http://rb.gy/3bbjn lets us
hang meat in 400sf
ceiling 8-14ft


Also note that some versions of this come with heat as well if you shop long enough.
One room is deliciously warm with a 110v space heater but shop the most safe types.

Whitetail said:

---

I installed a 12k Mr Cool in my workshop. It is 120V, but have a dedicated breaker. 400 Sqft and 8 ft high ceilings. Specs say the 12k is good for 500 sqft. Works great. 100% dependent on the space you're trying to cool. I also suspect you need a dedicated circuit due to the current draw.

---

I have installed one of these in a 500 sq cabin I framed. It is 120 volt and on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. My customer has nothing but good things to say about it

How big is your bedroom? Quick look on Amazon has some 1 ton mini splits with a 15A 120V load.

Depends a bit on your panel(s), but if you have ample 120 then you have ample 240. Need room for a two pole breaker.

I get wanting a minisplit. I like the idea iof them as well. The problem is they've gotten much more expensive compared to other options.

Maybe take a shot with this. It would allow you to answer your questions at a much cheaper price point. And if you choose, upgrade to a minisplit later.

Midea 12,000 BTU U-Shaped Smart Inverter Window Air ConditionerCools up to 550 Sq. Ft., Ultra Quiet with Open Window Flexibility, Works with Alexa/Google Assistant, 35% Energy Savings, Remote Control https://a.co/d/cQsdbOH

Forgot to mention - no windows that open in the bedroom (french doors) so window unit or even a portable is a no-go.

Installing a vent through the wall (like for a dryer) for a portable for $100 is still a fairly simple and cheap option. Just cap it on the inside when not in use. I did this in my garage that has no windows.

Just want to make sure you are aware of options even if you go with the minisplit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VENTS-US-90-CFM-Wall-Through-Garage-Ventilation-Kit-MA-Series-5-in-Duct-VENTS-GK-125-MA/301368527?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D26P-026_002_AIR_CIRC_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PMax&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D26P-026_002_AIR_CIRC_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PMax-71700000097492027--&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4kVgT-bIrX2nLAnybcQxNXzRuhtRuUG7F1XW6fmp4xVubVYwmbSTY4aAtsiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/Through-Wall-Ventilation-kit-Adjustable-Connector/dp/B08LHDMYLJ/ref=asc_df_B08LHDMYLJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475809487669&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17158606265797341572&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027666&hvtargid=pla-1016892148042&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Intulon-Portable-Conditioner-Exhaust-Counter-Clockwise/dp/B096QXL8QL/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?hvadid=581158023540&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027666&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12332310265587897054&hvtargid=kwd-305081428942&hydadcr=24595_13428543&keywords=portable+air+conditioner+wall+vent+kit&qid=1693233537&sr=8-2-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Quote:

---

We do have more than adequate 110 capacity on that end of the house to handle adding a mini split.

---

Can you explain what this means?

I think he is referring to wire cost as the 12-2/3 to 10-2/3 jump escalates quickly on 100+ ft run unless staying with 20 amp 240

Yea - 220, 221 what ever it takes…..My electrician knowledge is notta. We did make some changes to our pool equipment (which is where the close power would come from) which cut the electric requirements significantly. Other than that my understanding is the 110 version will overall be less expensive.

AgTech88 said:

---

Yea - 220, 221 what ever it takes…..My electrician knowledge is notta. We did make some changes to our pool equipment (which is where the close power would come from) which cut the electric requirements significantly. Other than that my understanding is the 110 version will overall be less expensive.

---

The pool equipment is adjacent to where the minisplit condenser would go? Is there a subpanel at the pool equipment?

I guess I still don't understand what you mean that you have 110 capacity at that end of the house. Is there an unused 110 circuit or something?

I have the 110v Mr Cool in the garage. Works great.

Edit: Yes I did run a circuit. It is not a plug into an outlet type supply cord. Maybe it can be done that way? Not positive. I ran mine through a typical AC cutoff box on the exterior.

You also have to run the condensate drain line somewhere outside of where you install it.

The unit works great.