Anyone have tips/suggestions on sourcing solid-core wood door slabs. Need to replace about 7 upstairs

Edit: looking for basic 6 panel traditional doors. Would prefer a smooth wood finish.

Not sure if you are looking for something that will be stained or painted, but I found that some of the solid doors have a thin layer of MDF board that goes over the wood. I'm not a fan of that. I'm not telling you to avoid it, but I think it's something to be aware of.

What style are the doors ? 6 panel ?

Location ?

Mccoys

JP76 said:

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What style are the doors ? 6 panel ?

Location ?

Mccoys

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Sorry…should have made that clear. OP updated.

There's a door clearance super center on 45 south on the west side of the freeway not too terribly far from hobby. That would be my first place to look.

Is this even doable? I thought if you did this without replacing the frame, it can sag over time as the original frame won't be strong enough to withstand the substantially heavier solid core doors.

build.com

vmiaptetr said:

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Not sure if you are looking for something that will be stained or painted, but I found that some of the solid doors have a thin layer of MDF board that goes over the wood. I'm not a fan of that. I'm not telling you to avoid it, but I think it's something to be aware of.

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May I ask why you are not a fan of that door construction? Obviously an MDF skin is for paint grade only, but what would be the downside?

Moisture. Obviously, wood is not impervious to moisture, but I wouldn't want to use something with MDF near a bathroom. It's just personal preference.

HeightsAg said:

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Is this even doable? I thought if you did this without replacing the frame, it can sag over time as the original frame won't be strong enough to withstand the substantially heavier solid core doors.

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Hinge screws should run through frame casing to studs. Door openings are framed the same for hollow and solid core doors (cased the same as well). If your builder cheaped out and used 2 hinges for the doors, you should add a hinge (or 2) depending on height of doors if swapping to solid core.

is this truly a problem though...in theory yes, but just bathroom air moisture? Or do you live somewhere where humidity makes everything a challenge

I live in the BCS area. My house is sealed pretty tight, and I have a whole home dehumidifier to keep my humidity at 40%. Would I need to be concerned about MDF messing up? No. Just personal preference.

MDF vs humidity

MDF is moisture-resistant, not water-resistant, nor waterproof, and is still prone to swelling and warping if in direct contact with the elements.

There are a few areas where MDF should never be used kitchen or bathroom cabinets and trim in the bathrooms. These are the two areas we see the most failure because of moisture, commonly due to not being sealed 6 sides

That said, 40% RH reported/provided is not humid,
so only the bathroom steam potential harm seems afoot here as a constant threat.
re: Architect Specs:
DOORS: PAINT ALL 6 SIDES 1 COAT Devoe Wood Primer/Sealer; then
2 COATS Wonder-Tones Interior Semi-gloss Latex Enamel
thus, so long as bath moisture is sealed out/away from MDF via diligent vigilance,
then MDF may remain as stable as the remainder of the door materials.

Since most home owners get distracted from maintenance until too late, we usually try to steer them away from bathroom area MDFs, even with initial good sealing. Are you vigilant enough?

vmiaptetr said:

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Moisture. Obviously, wood is not impervious to moisture, but I wouldn't want to use something with MDF near a bathroom. It's just personal preference.

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Understood. I do not use MDF within bathrooms, except for the entry door. I am okay with MDF solid, or MDF skinned doors. As a cabinetmaker I am aware of the necessity to seal it properly, all edges thoroughly. Yes, I have seen hundreds of MDF doors swelling at the bottom (when I am nosy in people's homes) mostly due to lazy painters so you are correct, it is a risk if others are doing the finish work.

As to the OP's question. I just purchased seven doors through my local building supply. I had existing jambs and was going to replace the hollow core doors with with new MDF skinned solid doors, single panel, 1 3/8" thick. But the carpenters in '84 when the house was built, never trimmed the legs of the jambs so the doors were about 1 1/4" above the hardwood floor (there has never been carpeting to explain the gap). So new doors would be the same gap unless I were to pack down the head jamb. Then I would mortise everything, get new hinges, align everything, blah, blah, blah. The price was about $160 per.

I eventually decided on prehung doors, with three ball bearing hinges, one large single panel with a square framing bead, primed, and drilled for $240 each delivered in one week. REEB is the mfr. My case molding was old and crappy so I was thinking of replacing it anyway. I think it was the right decision. Weekend project coming up.