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Down to Stud 'Renovation' Process and Tips

13,882 Views | 118 Replies | Last: 6 days ago by Sea Speed
BenTheGoodAg
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AG
Looking good. Lot of progress in a short time
Sea Speed
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AG
Leggo My Elko
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Do tell.
BenTheGoodAg
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Leggo My Elko said:

Do tell.
Have you ever done a 'down to the studs' project? Here's a roadmap of this project for reference.

Sea Speed
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AG

Leggo My Elko
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Sea Speed
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AG
When I built that little wall I very obviously was not laying close enough attention. It's ok though, they will stick out an extra inch and a half and I will put a trim piece in the cabinets in the other wall and move them down, but I definitely thought I was going to be ripping out drywall and cutting an inch off the 2x4s on that little wall.

Here's what it will look like.
Sea Speed
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And to make the other side with the sink base that will now be sticking out past the wall, I will make a little decorative built in so the cabinets and wall are back to lining up, similar to this.



Sea Speed
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For a little more clarification, the built in shelf will go on the wall to the right here where the cabinet is sticking off so it will look like the cabinets take up the whole wall again. Not ideal, but better than having to redo that wall. Oh well, lesson learned.
Sea Speed
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AG
Just some trim work left on the cabinets.

jaggiemaggie
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AG
Maybe you did but can't tell from the picture, but curious why you didn't replace the original aluminum single pane window?
Sea Speed
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Tbh it didn't even cross my mind. I probably still could as I haven't trimmed it out yet. Hmm.
Sea Speed
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Also for people with experience, would you lat down sheathing over that subfloor for LVP or just go straight for it?
jaggiemaggie
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AG
Might not be a bad idea, cheap(ish) update and less mess now than later
rilloaggie
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Sea Speed said:

Also for people with experience, would you lat down sheathing over that subfloor for LVP or just go straight for it?


https://a.co/d/7LWwiLG

I put this down under my LVP. HD sells rolls that are basically the same but blue plastic and claim anti microbial properties. Mine is installed on concrete and they definitely provide a tiny bit of extra padding. Might cut down on noise on a second floor install. I'd double check the installation info of whatever flooring you bought to make sure it doesn't void any warranties or anything like that.
Sea Speed
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I've got a moisture barrier underlayment, but the sheathing would ensure a purely flat surface, just not sure if it is necessary.
Sea Speed
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The window is double paned, I had never paiduch atte ruin to it and just checked before I went down the rabbit hole on replacing a window.

Sea Speed
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So here's is how I solved my "don't know how to measure before I build a wall" problem, which actually isn't much of a problem because pulling those cabinets forward actually gives more height to the above counter space due to the slope of the ceiling.

Added a 2" trim piece to the non sink side and a 3" trim piece to the sink side. That gives me a 2inch overhang on the hall side of the sink base, which is where I will put that built in shelf area I posted a pic of before, which really will add a little bit of customization to the apartment. You should be able to get a better idea from the photos.



billyjack2009
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Be sure when you pick cabinet and drawer pulls that they don't protrude so much that the left most drawer on the right cabinet can't open due to the right most drawer on the left cabinet. Maybe there's more space there than I'm seeing but it's something to consider.
Sea Speed
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Oh yes well aware, but the only concerning one is a false front on top so shouldn't be an issue anyways.
Sea Speed
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Flooring is done. Added a pad and moisture barrier and sure glad I did as it makes walking around much more pleasant.

The little crawl space that is lit has a fan that blows air from the main space in to it and we will have a little twin bed down there as a kids hideaway. The dark crawlspace will be storage, and I will be installing a light down there, but no way to put a fan in. Need to figure out a good way to kind of section it off.

Picked up truly 6" tall primed pine baseboards yesterday for just over $1 a linear foot. If I would have bought the whole pallet they would have been less than $1. Incredible price.






Sea Speed
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Also got the AC installed and dammit boy I wish I would have done that sooner but a little suffering builds character.

Sea Speed
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Learned to wallpaper in the absolute easiest possible space known to man.


Sea Speed
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Made one bad cut at the top so now I get to add a piece of trim.
BenTheGoodAg
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A wise man once told me stuff like this is "one of the inevitabilities of being handy and having a wife". Sure looks like this counts to me.

And it looks good. Nice touch.
Sea Speed
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BenTheGoodAg said:

A wise man once told me stuff like this is "one of the inevitabilities of being handy and having a wife". Sure looks like this counts to me.

And it looks good. Nice touch.



That dude is an absolute genius.
Sea Speed
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I was dead sick last week and wife and I were out of town last weekend, then our dog died so first time getting up here in a while. Fit a little bit of trim work in today. We decided to not put doors on the entry way space so the place feels more open. Will have some kids seats and the like in there to create some separation from parents.


Sea Speed
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How would y'all do the transition from baseboard to shower tile/curb?

I had planned for the backer board to come out a few inches last the curb but not sure if that is correct. I definitely want the tile to extend a couple of inches, but it seems kind of dumb to extend the baseboard all the way to the curb. Glancing at stuff online, I can't seem to find anything definitive.

I think the baseboard should run up to where the backer board will start and the tile should go out to that point.

Appreciate any insight.


TexAg1987
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How are you trimming the shower and curb?



Sea Speed
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Just tile but I wasn't planning on running the tile around the baseboards. In that image I was planning to just run the tile over the curb and down to the floor on the front and wall the baseboard is covering.
Sea Speed
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Similar to this but the tile will extend those 3 or so inches past the curb. If my baseboard wasn't taller than the curb it may be fine, but I like the few inches of buffer for water to splash the tile and not baseboard.


TexAg1987
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If I understand you correctly, I would probably just cut a 45 bevel cut on the end of the baseboard and have it die into the tile.

Similar to the board in the back.

Sea Speed
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That's what I was thinking would be ideal.
TexAg1987
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Sea Speed said:

That's what I was thinking would be ideal.
If your tile is thick and has a flat edge, you could chamfer instead, leaving it the thickness of your tile.

Sea Speed
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Yea I can go ahead and cut the baseboard to length and make that call when I get the backer board and what not all in to place. I think that's the way I will go. Thanks.
 
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