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Another question for 8x8 garden shed I'm building

20,532 Views | 181 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by JokkerZ
62strat
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91_Aggie said:

okay, looked up polyurethane glue, and looks like Gorilla glue matches the description.
However, will that glue expand too much?

Anywho, got all the gussets and rafters cut to length.

Made a "jig" so that everyone will be exactly the same.

Tomorrow at lunch (or maybe tonight some) I'll start gussetting them.





Looks familiar.
I had an overhang though.

Builder93
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Been busy lately but I am following.

Another pro tip about glue:

Don't buy the big bottle thinking you are saving money. Unless you are using it everyday, get the small bottle. You'll be ready to go on your next glue up and you will curse as you throw away half a bottle of hard glue before you run to the store for more.
txag2008
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Why the need for a jig to join 2 boards?
62strat
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txag2008 said:

Why the need for a jig to join 2 boards?
2 boards times 6 pairs. Much easier to attach those two boards and gussets with a jig. Plus I cut notches in the rafters (To sit flat on top plates) so laying it on the floor I could mark where the notch is.
91_Aggie
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Builder93 said:

Been busy lately but I am following.

Another pro tip about glue:

Don't buy the big bottle thinking you are saving money. Unless you are using it everyday, get the small bottle. You'll be ready to go on your next glue up and you will curse as you throw away half a bottle of hard glue before you run to the store for more.


Bought the liquid nails stuff in a tube. Started with 1 tube and that was enough to do the gussets on one side. So worked out well. Completly emptied two tubes and was 100% done
91_Aggie
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Roofing trusses/rafters are installed.

Next up:
Siding on top half of front/back

Build the "ladders" for the front and back overhang and attach it

Install roof sheathing
Install drip edges
Install tar paper
Install shingles

Then the door
Then all trim
Sealing and painting



GrimesCoAg95
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Then hvac, electric, plumbing, insulation, sheetrock, and interior trim.
Canyon99
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91_Aggie said:

Roofing trusses/rafters are installed.

Next up:
Siding on top half of front/back

Build the "ladders" for the front and back overhang and attach it

Install roof sheathing
Install drip edges
Install tar paper
Install shingles

Then the door
Then all trim
Sealing and painting





Looks great!
ABATTBQ11
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txag2008 said:

Why the need for a jig to join 2 boards?


In addition to doing it repeatedly, you also need to make sure they're all exactly the same to get a uniform surface for your roof.
91_Aggie
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ABATTBQ11 said:

txag2008 said:

Why the need for a jig to join 2 boards?


In addition to doing it repeatedly, you also need to make sure they're all exactly the same to get a uniform surface for your roof.
Definitely... I put up all 7 trusses after using the jig, and every one of them fit perfectly. they were all identical.

I know the two look simple, but the angle can change if you just try to put them together at the angle cut and hope the all are the same.
91_Aggie
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Have the two "ladders" up on front and back for the small overhangs. Had to buy.some clamps to get this done, and had the Gorilla ladder up as high as it could go.

Next step is thr 1x6 fascias on the front of the "ladders"

Then finally the roof sheathing to really make it look like a shed
91_Aggie
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Half the roof on. The highest two sections. Will be less dangerous for the rest of it
will.mcg
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Post some pictures already!
Gary79Ag
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will.mcg said:

Post some pictures already!
Yeah, pics or it didn't happen!
91_Aggie
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Roof sheathing all on and I didn't die nor maim myself. Pics later
OldArmyBrent
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will.mcg said:

Post some pictures already!
91_Aggie
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So here's a couple of pics.

I did mess up with the Fascia a little, but nothing that can't be fixed/hidden. The plans were not very detailed (my fault for finding them free on the internet), so when they had the fascia pieces (for end of gables) cut 1/2" bigger, I couldn't figure out why since they wouldn't fit on the trusses.

Well instead of coming here and asking a question like I should have, I just cut them down to "right" size and put them on. It wasn't until I was putting on the sheathing that I had the epiphany of "Oh, that extra half-inch was to place them a half inch HIGHER than trusses so the roof sheathing would butt-up against". DOH!!

So the deck is over the fascia, but I figure I'll seal the OSB edge really good, and then the Drip Edge will cover up my stupidity.

You can in the first pic where I put in some 2x4 blocks to hold the big roof piece in place once I "pushed" it up the ladder and shoved it up and over the blocks (this is where I felt the most danger for trying to do this alone).
But it worked out fairly well.

And then of course, I get an 3-day weekend so i can do the drip edges, the felt underlayment and the shingles, but it has been raining all day and supposedly tomorrow.

Got my shopping list, so about another $200 for all the roofing materials (shingles being about $160 of that)... if can get a break in the rain, I'll go to Lowes to get it all.

And thank goodness for trim and paint that will hide the mistakes.

oh, and the roof had a nice wind test with the storms that came through... lots of wind and it wasn't budging





one more edit to show the very first "Before picture"
91_Aggie
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Well drip edges are weird for the way this roof is designed. Going to have to install the trim first before doing drip edges on the sides, which means I also want to paint them before installing them to get a solid seal on all 4 sides with paint.

And my still working on matching color of house... slight delay on roofing it now (of course this next week calls for lots of rain, so probably okay).

Might start working on the door logistics and planning.. think I'm going to make them a little more solid than the plans call for.
91_Aggie
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Delays. Delays! [/Marvin the Martian]

So, with the weird roof on the sides, I need to put the trim on first before I install the drip guard on the bottom of the roof since there really is no overhang.

Which means i had to first buy the trim, then paint the trim, then caulk the all around where the trim will be near the roof and where the drip guard will cover thed edges of the roof,and where the trim will go across the front and back, then paint the part of the shed where the trim will cover, the install the trim, then caulk more around the trim, then finally install the drip gaurd.

At that point i will be able to put the felt on, then the rake drip guard, then the shingles.

But this rain is delaying all that.
Builder93
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91_Aggie said:

Delays. Delays! [/Marvin the Martian]

So, with the weird roof on the sides, I need to put the trim on first before I install the drip guard on the bottom of the roof since there really is no overhang.

Which means i had to first buy the trim, then paint the trim, then caulk the all around where the trim will be near the roof and where the drip guard will cover thed edges of the roof,and where the trim will go across the front and back, then paint the part of the shed where the trim will cover, the install the trim, then caulk more around the trim, then finally install the drip gaurd.

At that point i will be able to put the felt on, then the rake drip guard, then the shingles.

But this rain is delaying all that.
When you put it that way, this thing sounds like a pain in the a**.
91_Aggie
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Builder93 said:

91_Aggie said:

Delays. Delays! [/Marvin the Martian]

So, with the weird roof on the sides, I need to put the trim on first before I install the drip guard on the bottom of the roof since there really is no overhang.

Which means i had to first buy the trim, then paint the trim, then caulk the all around where the trim will be near the roof and where the drip guard will cover thed edges of the roof,and where the trim will go across the front and back, then paint the part of the shed where the trim will cover, the install the trim, then caulk more around the trim, then finally install the drip gaurd.

At that point i will be able to put the felt on, then the rake drip guard, then the shingles.

But this rain is delaying all that.
When you put it that way, this thing sounds like a pain in the a**.


Nah! Just frustrated about the rain really. Plus thought I would have it a shingled by now.
GrimesCoAg95
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Since your fascia is not wide enough, you can take a narrow (2") piece of trim (LP or hardie) and stack it on top of the current fascia. Your drip edge can then go over it. This furring strip will pull the drip edge off the fascia as well which improves drainage.

https://inspectapedia.com/roof/Roof_Drip_Edge_Flashing_Specifications.php
91_Aggie
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Interesting but not exactly the problem... Let me see if I can get a Picture. I've got an idea for a solution that a friend suggest who's dad owns a roofing company and he spent many summers working his day.

will get some pics in a bit
91_Aggie
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So, here's the picture showing the roof really having no good edge. and being at a very steep angle to the side wall.



Trim is suppose to go across the top right below the roof, so if I butt the trim right up to the roof, then drip edge will really be pushed upwards right where at the bottom, which in turn would cause the shingle to really be weird and pushed up.

So my friend suggested dropping the trim down about 1-2 inches so the drip edge still goes over it but is at a downward angle still. The drip edge definitely won't be at a 90 degree angle.

Here's pic of drip edge already flattened out a little with no trim.




And then with trim behind it.





The solution will require me needing to cut the 1x4 trim almost in half (height-wise) so to the bottom of the side trim will meet the bottom of the front and back trim.

But if anyone has a better idea that is feasible, I'll be happy to hear them.

another pic to show a little of the bad angle if trim were butted against top of roof


GrimesCoAg95
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I was talking about a furring strip on the front of the shed. On the side, I think you can drop the trim down or just cut it at an angle. I would also add a furring strip on the side. The further you can get the drip edge from the wall the better. You may have a 1x6 with a 1x4 on top. It could also be a 1x4 and a 1x2. This is the hard part of your roof style.
Builder93
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I would have a place like Metal Mart make a drip edge that was at the right angle. I would also have them bend a t shaped edge so that it moves the drip away from the siding. Shape more like this but with the correct angle for the roof to wall connection.
GrimesCoAg95
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Since you are in BCS, Mike Bishop can help you out. 979-255-3876

91_Aggie
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Been a while.
Got the felt paper on, the drip edges and the backside half of the roof shingled (wanted to practice on backside in case i screwed up. Got to top and all perfectly equidistant from peak from one end to other.

Tedious to do alone with and with the almost vertical lower half of each side. Put some on, climb down,move the ladder, repeat.

Essentially just working on it during lunch hour each day. Will try to get my wife to do some painting so I will be set to go when I get to door
91_Aggie
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We have a roof...fully shingled!



Now to get that door done (casing, build the doors, install the doors, etc).

then remaining trim, painting, sealing...maybe install a loft inside.
Builder93
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91_Aggie said:

We have a roof...fully shingled!



Now to get that door done (casing, build the doors, install the doors, etc).

then remaining trim, painting, sealing...maybe install a loft inside.

91_Aggie
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Builder93 said:

91_Aggie said:

We have a roof...fully shingled!



Now to get that door done (casing, build the doors, install the doors, etc).

then remaining trim, painting, sealing...maybe install a loft inside.



I know... right! and the picture is distorting it even more for some reason

but lots of loft space for extra storage.
91_Aggie
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doors are on, but I still need to fix casing since the plans I had for the doors were very basic and simple and I could not find this type of "latch" at lowes or home depot in town... even tried Tractor supply and Ace.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G75WFNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

so wont' get that until tomorrow night
91_Aggie
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Alright, new question.

The plans I had left the underside of the front and back "gables" open. My wife pointed out "Those are prime places for wasps to builds nest and you won't easily see them."

So, what would be the best method to cover them. My first thought was buy a piece of plywood and cut it up into 8 rectangles for the 4 sections (4 in front, 4 in back).

But wanted to just see if I'm missing something.

Gary79Ag
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Put up smart siding instead of plywood, will last longer and look similar to your siding! Or siding if you have material left over...
91_Aggie
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Gary79Ag said:

Put up smart siding instead of plywood, will last longer and look similar to your siding! Or siding if you have material left over...
done.
now just have to paint and I'm done.
 
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