GrimesCoAg95 said:

---

You have framing, siding, roofing, painting just to get the outside done. Then you have the electrical (this may be a change order) and interior finish out with shelves. This is Texas so you better plan for a full shiplap interior. It is in style you know.

---

Its 8x8. Framing and siding and roof is going to be 1 day.

Well, you guys got me excited about getting started. Decided I'd start the legwork and basics for the framing

But I made a rookie mistake.

I bought 4 2x4x8 treated for outdoor for the bottom of the framing around the shed along with regular 2x4x8 for the actual framing up and top.

Both said 2x4x8 with 96" actual for length.

Well the treated 2x4x8 were actually about 1/4" longer than 96" which would have made a 1/2" difference all all sides and the top.

ugh.. at least it was only a $5 mistake (I had already drilled the 1/2" holes in them for the anchor bolts.

Luckily, the back one had to cut short already so I can use that one.
And one of the side ones can be used for the front since I only need about about 24" on each side.

The big loss is the time and effort I already put in.
But at least now I had a practice run for this, but I still want to punch something

Back to lowes for another 2x4x8 treated.

Oh, and I did learn another thing. Guy that did the plans has a little trouble with math for his measurements between the studs... almost 1.5"off pnce I got across in measuring the off. not a huge deal but at least now I can do fix that so my OCD doesn't have live with that forever.

toolshed said:

---

????

So you couldn't use the treated 2x4's because they were 1/4" too long?? Do you own a saw?

Just an FYI, all treated lumber is not exact length. It's pressure treated, which means it's put under high pressure in a solution of chemicals to make it stable and hold up in moisture and to insects. Wood, in moisture swells. It's taken out, bundled, shipped to the store. When you buy it, it's likely still wet, and continues to shrink. That's why they cut it long, so it doesn't wind up less than the nominal dimension, 8', 10', etc..

While this may not be common knowledge to someone who doesn't use lumber, I don't see how boards being 1/4" too long threw such a kink into the system. Cut them the exact length you want and keep on trucking.

Edit to say I guess I don't really understand what the issue is, if you bought 4 treated, you have four sides.

Also, your last paragraph seems like gibberish to me, maybe make sure you are staying hydrated!

---

Two lines of your post that stand out to me...glad you were the one to state them as I was thinking the exact same thing!

My edit was that I was trying to be understanding, I read it 3-4 times trying to figure out what's going on. He mentions cutting the back one that he decided he could use and the front two 24" pieces. So it's not a matter of being able to cut... I'm just confused I guess. Glad I'm not the only one though!

Oh I explained badly.

I had already cut the holes in the 2x4x8 for the anchor bolts before I realized that the width was off by a full 1/2".
I was stupid for not measuring earlier. Maybe a 1/4"on each side would not have mattered much, but I didn't want to have gaps when I got to the 4x8 siding and 4x8 plywood for the roof.

So I need to move the anchor bolt holes a 1/4" on each of the side 2x4x8 that would be the sill.
I didn't want to cut the holes bigger because I didn't want the sill boards to move around/have "give" at the anchor bolts

Probably a better way to have fixed it than what I did, but at least now I'm confident it is exactly 8-feet width all around. Again, my first foray into framing a building from the ground up. Probably too anal about it, but hey, I don't mind a little extra work right now.

Having fun with the experience even while cussing.

So, I'm all set now with the "sill base" being perfect... now just have to mark off the stud locations on the sills, then copy those marks to the 2x4 that will run across the top and it should be pretty easy until I get to the front frame.

But i'm done for the night.

Should have left out the last paragraph.

Before I realized I was off by the 1/2" on treated 2x4s, I had started measuring out where the studs would go and marking them on the sill 2x4. The Plans showed how much distance to mark between each stud and was pretty exact.
However, while working on the side sill and going from back of shed to front, when I got the front, I had an extra 2" between the studs than the plans called for (even with my 1/2" messup)
I measured again to make sure I didn't make a mistake. Nope... not a huge deal but now need to read through the plans closely and double-check his math on some other things.

It would probably wouldn't have made a difference since I was actually under 16" between each stud on the ends... but didn't like it being off.


That's what I get for googling and using a free plan.

txag2008 said:

---

91_Aggie said:

---

Its 8x8. Framing and siding and roof is going to be 1 day.

---

So about that.....

Kiding....kinda

---

Yeah, I know. But i have not started framing yet... that was still just buying materials and planning... yeah, that's the ticket!

More prep work today.
Cut 29 2x4s down to proper length for the framing.
Top and bottom sills for both sides all marked for studs.

Might try at lunch tomorrow to get the sides and back all framed up.
Should go fast since everything is cut, marked and ready to go.

Don't forget to mark your crowns on the studs or your OCD will be kicking in again!

Gary79Ag said:

---

Don't forget to mark your crowns on the studs or your OCD will be kicking in again!

---

I might need you to tell me more about that. Googling now

Okay. Yeah. I dug through the bin at lowes and very carefully selected 40 of them that were very straight. Took a long time selectung them. So hopefully do not need to worry to much about that

91_Aggie said:

---

Gary79Ag said:

---

Don't forget to mark your crowns on the studs or your OCD will be kicking in again!

---

I might need you to tell me more about that. Googling now

---

Lawd!!

Cups, crowns, cripples, nipples...wait, I guess we aren't plumbing yet! You'll be ok, don't stress too much.

Aggie, may I ask what your day job is?

toolshed said:

---

91_Aggie said:

---

Gary79Ag said:

---

Don't forget to mark your crowns on the studs or your OCD will be kicking in again!

---

I might need you to tell me more about that. Googling now

---

Lawd!!

Cups, crowns, cripples, nipples...wait, I guess we aren't plumbing yet! You'll be ok, don't stress too much.

Aggie, may I ask what your day job is?

---

Computer stuff.

I had assumed some sort of engineer, but not building associated. I have a friend that's an engineer for TXDOT, your thought processes remind me of him. Not a bad thing, just seeing the analytical side of building vs the hands on that I started learning around 12-13 yrs old.

It's interesting seeing things that are second nature to a builder/ carpenter that never cross the mind of someone without the background. Same goes, I am certain, if I tried to do more computer stuff than the simple tasks I know.

Again, enjoy more, stress less!

toolshed said:

---

I had assumed some sort of engineer, but not building associated. I have a friend that's an engineer for TXDOT, your thought processes remind me of him. Not a bad thing, just seeing the analytical side of building vs the hands on that I started learning around 12-13 yrs old.

It's interesting seeing things that are second nature to a builder/ carpenter that never cross the mind of someone without the background. Same goes, I am certain, if I tried to do more computer stuff than the simple tasks I know.

Again, enjoy more, stress less!

---

Yes. I know. My dad owned a tile business (instaling tile in new homes) and he just "knew" how to do stuff like this and would just get it done fast with high quality. I definitley know there are shortcuts and know there are somenthings that do not matter as much as I think they might. But that is mainly lack of experience and watching it being done before

But I overthink it too much sometimes.

My wife and I really like mid century modern, considering the style or elements of it for our future home, whenever we get to it!

SO, let's see this chicken coop sketch!!

I'm not sure how to share a pdf.

Builder93 said:

---

I'm not sure how to share a pdf.

---

Screen shot to jpeg

The extra siding on the bottom elevation is to shade from the western sun. Lap siding is alternating size.
The doors in the back(small end) are nesting boxes (removable) to the left and food storage/ feeder top to the right. There will be a PVC pipe that drops from inside the right door area into a feeder that splits left and right.
Double doors open up the coop for cleaning.
The size is for 8 chickens. 6' 8" x 14' 8"
The roof was designed based on a full 16' piece of galvanized roof panel. No seams on such a low pitch. If I can get some roofing membrane (TPO) I might do that and extend the overhang on the front also.
We plan to do a water catchment system to water the chickens. That's one of the reasons why the roof slopes the way it does. It's also a more efficient use of materials.

I wish I could do round metal posts for the run but it would be too difficult to attach hardware cloth cleanly.

For scale.

And to go with the Leave it to Beaver era, me in my suit after work and the wife in her house cleaning outfit.

Looks nice! Better than the standard farmhouse/ barn coup out there.

Thanks. I think it will look a lot better when it is built. MCM tends to look flat on paper. I know the shadows will help it out when it's done. Plus the siding has a cool effect because they alternate angles, the colors appear to alternate also. You also have to imagine it in a light bluish gray with some white accents. Chicken coops are so practical. It's like making a firehouse look good proportionally- small living area and huge open bays. It's hard to combine the function and aesthetics.

If money were not an issue I would do a very flat green roof.

3 sides are framed and up. Braced the front temporarily with a couple of 2x4.
I could never do this for a living. I am too precise and have a perfectionist streak. Takes me way too long to do something that someone who does this for a living could do so quickly.

But this shed is gonna be high quality. Good thing my company extended work from home until juneish.

91_Aggie said:

---

3 sides are framed and up. Braced the front temporarily with a couple of 2x4.
I could never do this for a living. I am too precise and have a perfectionist streak. Takes me way too long to do something that someone who does this for a living could do so quickly.

But this shed is gonna be high quality. Good thing my company extended work from home until juneish.

---

You have to learn to accept the limitations of the material. Wood twists, swells, and bends. The saw is only so accurate. One trick is always measure from the same side of the lumber and stay consistent as you go. Framers are called framers for a reason. They are not the same breed as a trim carpenter.

When I was a kid I would go pick out lumber with my dad. He would reject stuff that is now considered #1 grade material. The only true and straight material anymore is man made. The trees are so young that most framing lumber is not stable. I keep wood out of sunlight and bundled together as long as I can to delay it's final drying until it is nailed and firmly held in place.

Builder93 said:

---

91_Aggie said:

---

3 sides are framed and up. Braced the front temporarily with a couple of 2x4.
I could never do this for a living. I am too precise and have a perfectionist streak. Takes me way too long to do something that someone who does this for a living could do so quickly.

But this shed is gonna be high quality. Good thing my company extended work from home until juneish.

---

You have to learn to accept the limitations of the material. Wood twists, swells, and bends. The saw is only so accurate. One trick is always measure from the same side of the lumber and stay consistent as you go. Framers are called framers for a reason. They are not the same breed as a trim carpenter.

When I was a kid I would go pick out lumber with my dad. He would reject stuff that is now considered #1 grade material. The only true and straight material anymore is man made. The trees are so young that most framing lumber is not stable. I keep wood out of sunlight and bundled together as long as I can to delay it's final drying until it is nailed and firmly held in place.

---

Yeah i am probably trying to do this like Norm from New Yankee workshop, only I do not have $200,000 worth of tools in my garage.

But the hard part is over until I start working in the door. Already dreading trying to make sure that it fits and swings perfectly level.

Oh and that chicken coop mid century modern style still makes me cringe. Guess i am not hipster enough to get it

Sasappis said:

---

I have some bad news for you on the door. You can have it perfectly level and a great fit today. However in 6 months from now it will be different. In unconditioned spaces the wood will swell and contract in different ways. You need to remember that it is an outdoor structure and needs to have those extra tolerances accounted for.

If you have the door fit too well you will have to take it down in a year after it has been raining a lot to trim to make it open and close. It may be 75 on the day you build but in August when it is 105 things will not fit the same.

---

Thanks for advice. I will keep that in mind and try to leave appropriate tolerances for swelling and shrinkage [/thats what she said]

In order to tweak the door as needed in the future, just install a 3-1/2" to 4" screw in place of one of the 3/4" screws in the door hinge attached to the wall. That way, when the shifts occur, just slightly adjust the long screws as needed to compensate for the shifts. Learned this lesson years ago and have passed it on to others as well, like yourself. Don't sweat the small stuff or you'll never be happy with what you've done!

I built my shed 5 years ago and the door still swings like a dream and opens/closes effortlessly. Maybe I got lucky. Dang thing weighs about 100 lbs too. Never even got around to putting the third hinge on there.




Inside to out it's osb, 2x4 frame, osb, then LP siding.