I've gotten bids for both. The bid for the metal roof is significantly higher,
but my understanding is that, unless it blows off, it will virtually last
"forever."
However, it is also my understanding that I will probably have to
replace the screws in the metal roof in approximately 12 - 15 years.
My experience with "30 year" composition roofs is that they really
only last about 20 - 25 years.
Definite pros and cons to both, but I've never had a metal roof.
I would appreciate some opinions as to which direction I should take.

Thanks!

Metal roofs def look better.

Only negative I can think of is hail damage and having to replace ..

How big is the price difference % wise?

I like the look of metal but it doesn't fit our house so we have class 4 composition as it saves a ton on homeowner's insurance. Our next door neighbor has metal (and has for years). It looks great but already has hail damage from a relatively minor storm.

Generally speaking with metal roofs insurance generally only will replace if the damage includes a hole in the metal. They won't replace for hail damage that is "cosmetic " according to my insurance company. I called to see what the insurance costs associated with each. When I had my roof replaced 2 years ago, I looked at both options but couldn't justify the additional cost that time.

When we build in a few years, I will do a metal roof because of the style of house we will be building.

I'm curious what screws you are talking about in the metal roof. The only screen that mine have they would have to take the whole roof off to replace so that is definitely not going to happen. I love our metal roof

Quote:

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Generally speaking with metal roofs insurance generally only will replace if the damage includes a hole in the metal.

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Guess its insurance dependant .. 2 roofs in 6 years including a barn, all due to hail damage / no holes

The cost differential is 74%.

Cosmetic damage really isn't an issue since we're talking about a small (850 sq ft) guest house in a very rural setting.

As far as the screws, my understanding is that the metal is screwed down using screws with rubber gaskets.
With time, & heat, the gaskets will wear out.

I appreciate all of your input.

It all depends. What you are talking about sounds like exposed fasteners. I wouldn't put exposed fastener metal roofing over a residence. Get a quote for standing seam where all fasteners are hidden and under the locking ribs. It is a much better system and will last longer.

On the hail part with insurance, you need to know your policy but also the facts. I would make sure the policy doesn't have a cosmetic exclusion because it just makes it difficult. But in reality, large enough hail will crack the coating in the metal and expose it to elements. So regardless of that exclusion clause, metal roofs can be claimed for what insurance companies will try and say is only cosmetic. It will just take a good knowledgeable contractor or a public adjuster to get it claimed for you.

As for how long they last. Metal will definitely outlast comp shingles. But that all depends on location and weather.

I recommend standing seam if you can swing the cost. Mine is over 12 years old and been through several hail storms. No dents. Really, you are simply trading your costs out.

Asphalt...pay a little now, and a little every 10-15 years (if you're lucky).

Metal...pay it ALL now...and likely never again.

Texker said:

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I like the look of metal but it doesn't fit our house so we have class 4 composition as it saves a ton on homeowner's insurance. Our next door neighbor has metal (and has for years). It looks great but already has hail damage from a relatively minor storm.

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Just wanted to give you a blue star for the fact that I agree metal doesn't always look better.

In some neighborhoods it really doesnt fit it.

But there are other times where it's really beautiful.

Yes, a long as you have a slope greater than 5% (need to double check that) go with a SSMR.
Also, there are now life quaranteed comp. shingles with the proper decking and moisture barrier. Don't let the old school comp. shingles scare you, there are good products out there now. Install is actually more important.....

Anyone know how much more expensive insurance on metal standing seam vs regular old roof is?

A lot of insurance companies discount your insurance if you have a standing seam roof.

I just bought a new (to me) house in April 2017 with a metal roof that was installed in 2002. It looks as good as the day it was installed and survived who knows how many hail dings. I got a significant discount with my insurance company (Farmers) too because of it. To the tune of about $300-400 a year or so.

Yes, a standing seam metal roof is a fantastic option for looks and durability.

What has been said here is correct...an exposed-fastener roof (most commonly an R-panel or U-panel roof) will have to be maintained over time with tightening of screws and, eventually, replacement with a thicker screw.

We've installed standing seam roofs in many different applications from small farm houses to very large houses to all kinds of buildings over our wide service area. A great example of our craftsmanship that comes to mind is Sodolak's Steakhouse in Bryan.

Please send me a message if you would like a quote from us.

19Aggie88 said:

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Yes, a long as you have a slope greater than 5% (need to double check that) go with a SSMR.
Also, there are now life quaranteed comp. shingles with the proper decking and moisture barrier. Don't let the old school comp. shingles scare you, there are good products out there now. Install is actually more important.....

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BINGO! The quality and durability of composite shingles has really elevated over the past several years. It's all about proper prep and installation, which is why you want to go with an established roofing company. We use the best materials available and have the best installers around and we stand by our work.

Be sure to shop around. When I was having a comp replaced by standing seam I was quoted between 16k and 22k and they all seemed high based on how much metal cost and how long it would take.

Long story short, I checked pricing 25 miles away and ended up getting 28 squares for $10k.

Shopping is great. But know what you are shopping for and why there is a potential savings. Low Bidder can sometimes cost you an incredible amount of money in the long run. It can also save you money too. Just know what you are getting in to. Make sure you are shopping apples to apples.

For example, many guys will tell you that you can save money by just laying the metal over your existing comp. And they are right, that it will save you money now, but it will cost you in the long run. Do things the right way the first time, and pay someone reputable what it takes to do it.

Hey 'Murica's Choice..... do you happen to be GAF Certified? I have a friend needing a warranty claim in BCS that is getting the run around. Badly blistered roof. From pics, he has appropriate ventilation so it should be covered, but I haven't seen it myself since I am in Oklahoma. There isn't a rep for yalls area and mine up here can't really help much down there. If you are a GAF company, do you want to take the lead and see if you can get them to claim it?

Where I live it is common for apples to apples quotes to be far far apart.

We only install GAF if the customer insists on it. We normally deal with CertainTeed, Atlas, and TAMKO. If you'll send me your friend's number, I can see what I can do to get him hooked up with a GAF rep.

Exactly. There are several shortcuts that can be taken that cause a lower bid, but aren't the best solutions. We always tear off the existing roof down to the wood decking so we can inspect it and make any necessary repairs. It would cost less to put metal over the shingles, but we won't do it.

Well in my case, we went down to the decking and started fresh. Roofer in business for 30 years did my job. Right after they finished the new Holiday Inn in town. Using the same metal Southwest Metal Roofing in San Antonio quoted me at $18k. Same color. Same warranty.

Sometimes people charge double what others will because they have uneducated customers willing to pay it.

I prefer to be educated on what I am buying and not get fleeced.

Yep, I go into many sales calls and find myself put in defense mode because roofing companies in general have a bad reputation for overcharging if they can. All I can do is help to educate my customers, answer all of their questions, and give them my best price. As I always tell them, we're not always the least expensive, but we're the best and we stand by our work.

Of course.. I see that in our market. I have hired two companies for roofing. One in Comfort and one in Fredericksburg. The rest charge ridiculous amounts of money more for the same work.

Out of curiosity, what is the going rate for tear off and replace with standing seam where you are? I paid less than $40 a square 8 years ago and have a friend asking me what he should expect. Single story ranch 4/12.

Labor rates have certainly gone up from eight years ago, but I don't want to go into labor rates, materials, overhead, etc., because almost everything can vary by the job complexity and among different suppliers.

Unless there is damage to the roof decking - which can be observed from underneath, via leaks, sagging areas of roof, channels rusted/rotted out, etc., there is only one reason to tear off a single layered comp roof to put another in its place - that reason is "weight" of the second layer of shingles. Which may be a factor...

Otherwise, all things equal a second layer is common sense more protection and avoids the cost of tear off, trashing, pick up and junking.

Standing seam or other metal/alum shake shingle look, etc., are all better options than comp where possible.

You cannot properly install Certainteed Integrity roof system without getting down to decking in jst about all cases. No way to do that without tear off. There may be No better way to rot a deck than installing a roof over a roof.

I completely disagree with that statement that weight is the only reason to tear off comp shingles. Two factors even more important than weight are heat and moisture.

Double layer roofing is not double layer protection. Don't get sold a bill of goods. Do it the right way so you don't have issues down the line.

Many insurance companies will not insure an overlay roof which causes problem when you try to sell in future.

Many city ordinances will not allow a 3rd layer above the 2nd.

Any future hail claims then require tearing off 2 layers instead of one. Insurance will only pay the cost to tear off 1. And there is a cost difference.

DadAG10 said:

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Many insurance companies will not insure an overlay roof which causes problem when you try to sell in future.

Many city ordinances will not allow a 3rd layer above the 2nd.

Any future hail claims then require tearing off 2 layers instead of one. Insurance will only pay the cost to tear off 1. And there is a cost difference.

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Dang right there is a cost difference! I almost said that the only good thing about a two layer roof is when the insurance has to pay for it. I had more than a few that insurance covered, and then required supplement upon finding they were actually two layers. Insurance paid dearly for it. It's something adjusters just don't check that closely for.

Brazos... whats the most you have ever seen? We had a 7 layer tear off on a old rental house that was probably 800sf. It was a nightmare. After that much time and heat, the shingles just disintegrated when hit with the pitch fork.

I call BS to those of you who insist on tearing down to deck in every case for no good reason. If you happen to be a sales person it's just another gimmick to make money.

I did NOT say anything about stacking on a 3rd level either.

I grew up in Amarillo - which is about as hail country as you can get - and worked in a Lumber Yard through JrH/HS and in summers from A&M and sold/delivered/installed many - MANY - doubled up comp roofs. And insurance was not a problem either way so far as I know. And yes, "Certainteed" flat 3-tab 210's were the cheapest we had for sale and the easiest to double up with. I can understand switching from say Architectural Timberline 3-D's and trying to put a Certainteed flat straight over would be an issue but Timberline over timberline just makes it look more like a shake roof.

For my own houses through the years as a new roof has been required I have switched to either Standing Seam or Aluminum Shake look-alikes - applied over a single comp roof both times - and got a nice reduction in insurance rates..

The cost difference saved by not tearing off the old comp roof vs the cost of the new metal roof over was then essentially cancelled out and negligible. And this occurred when Iived in Austin.

In every case of which I am aware where original old cedar shake roofs are being replaced they are becoming more and more scarce as not only do they cost more, higher labor costs, etc, but the insurance rates are sky high to keep/replace that type of roof. And obviously, they would HAVE to be removed to replace with either comp or metal roof - or tile, etc. Granted these were typically on very high dollar houses to begin with, but the option to replace with tile, or concrete, or slate, etc., is much preferable over comp or Timberline or standing seam, etc., on high dollar houses. But again,, to put that much weight on a roof requires close inspection of the structural loading capabilities.

Aggie1 said:

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And insurance was not a problem either way so far as I know.

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And that was true back in the old days, but is not true today.

You used to be able to have a beer while driving.