So I'm in the process of building a new home. They started framing this week and after viewing their progress I have a couple questions.

https://imgur.com/gallery/rPrPN

The pic is a close up of some of the studs. This is an example of what a lot look like.

First off, none of the studs are complete boards. They all have about 1 ft. Long sections that are glued together. Is this normal? If so what's the purpose?

Next, is this level of damage / ****ty grade of board normal? Should I go argue to have all the bad pieces replaced?

Thanks for the advise! Let me know if the pic doesn't work. It's my first attempt.

They're finger jointed. As long as they are used in a verticals position, they're good. They are supposedly straighter than a solid 2x4. They don't warp,twist, or bow like a regular stud.

That makes sense. Was thinking it would be something along those lines, but wanted to check.

What about the bad condition of many of the pieces? Something I should raise a stink about or just normal construction stuff?

As stated, finger jointed material, whether studs, trimwork, planed boards, etc. are better quality because you've thanked the long fibers that will warp and twist and shortened them and rejoined them again. Nothing wrong with the material.

The damaged piece isn't an issue either, it's simply a small defect where the stud was cut from the edge of the log vs the center. Less that 5% or so is missing, nothing is affecting its structural strength and the one in question is sistered to another stud, adding to its strength.

You will want to get dried is asap because fi fire joint doesn't do well in prolonged exposure to water and sun. But they are rated for short term exposure so as long as they don't leave for months you should be good.

In my opinion, pointing out these things will simply put the contractor at odds with you. They are good questions to inform yourself of, but being in the industry, these are standard materials.

I'd recommend walking through with a level and straight edge when they are done framing and braces removed. You'll want to insure the walls are level, door openings and such are level, and that the studs aren't warped too much across the plane of the wall. Place a long level or straight edge horizontal about half way up the wall and make sure none are grossly out of line with the rest. Those are normal things to walk through with the framer about, once he's done. You might ask at what point he wants to do that walk through, just so he's aware you want to check with him. If he's a good contractor he shouldn't mind the walk through.

Good luck with the venture.

Awesome reply, thanks!
We have a planned inspection with the builder pre drywall. I've been making weekly visits on my own just to satisfy my own curiosity. Love the level and straight edge idea. I'll be sure and do that.

I don't want to be the annoying guy that bugs them at every turn, yet I don't want to be completely ignorant and end up with a house that has all the usual "builder grade" issues.

Ted Logan said:

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As long as they are used in a verticals position, they're good.

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This. The framers should know this, but while you're checking all the stuff toolshed mentioned, make sure they didn't put any in a horizontal plane. The finger joint is good in compression, not tension/shear.

A good framer would return these FJ studs as culls or cut them into short pieces if blocking was required.
I agree with others posting that strength is not an issue, bending/crooking leading to sheetrock vacillations later would be afoot, in progress and certainly these voids allow more air infiltration points, lack of insulation and harbor for house pests breeding.

Take a pic of the inside stud brand/stamp, then w/o using names, ask a helpful lumberman what it means. Then ask what a top builder/framer would employ in a fine custom built house was wall studs.

Architects prefer (for straightness) FJ #2/better and preferably S-P-F #2/better that would never look like that pic.

The picture OP provided gives me shivers!! That sort of crap with gaps and knots and places where bark shed - or worse, rot, etc., should never be used on a decent shed, let alone a home. Those voids will be the very place a sheetrock nail/screw will puncture... or where a support for shelving, etc., needs a screw - or "something" - Murphy's Law applies. Even though it appears from the pic this was used in a corner or tee, it should have been discarded and returned for credit.

I was under the impression finger jointed studs were ok for interior walls but not ok for use in exterior walls.

Am I off base on this thought?

If your follow up question is why are all the 2x4s pink, you may have a problem.

Those of us in construction know the pink studs are leftovers from the October deliveries when they are used to support Save the Tatas. I wouldn't use them past March as they will have expired.

In all seriousness, that finger jointed stud is bullcrap. The benefit of finger jointed studs is to NOThave those imperfections and use smaller, less flawed pieces to create a better stud.

If I was building a new hous, I would pay the money to have their engineer do periodic inspections. Some builders do this but it's required in windstorm. Engineer should be able to get you comfortable that the structure is sound.

And second the idea on making sure things are straight and level before Sheetrock. You would be amazed (and your wife unhappy) with what is considered acceptable flaws in the straightness or bowing of a wall (same for concrete).