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responses specific to Fife:
DEMO - jacuzzi tub and everything else is going - too outdated to keep, so this is a given effort. How hard is it? Don't know yet. I don;t know anything about removing a jacuzzi tub...what do I do with all the pipes/jets and such. Do I cap things, cut them off an replace the piping with what is minimal? Probably all questions for a plumber.
The jets and whatnot come attached to the tub, so your new one will come with. Habitat will be able to handle 100% of the removal if you donate it to them. No need to cap anything - the only pressurized lines go into your valve which will need to stay in the wall until it's time to put the new one in. Removal is hard because they're so big and heavy. I would not try and remove one myself because the cultured marble ones weigh more than I do.
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TILE - I would love to try and tile myself, if this was to be done on a concrete slab. This is upstaira...not sure how that complicates things or other things to consider. Not the place I want to try this for the first time, given the fact if done wrong, water may penetrate and end up downstairs. I don't know what the going rate for laying bath tile is. For my kitchen it was $10/sq ft installed - got different quotes all around that number.
Do you currently have tile, and if so is it cracked? Just checking the structure to make sure it's stiff enough... $10/sq ft is high IMO unless it includes things like demo and tile. Your biggest water worry will be the walls and shower pan. A good contractor will use Kerdi or Redguard, and make sure there are NO penetrations through it for any reason. They'll also know that greenboard and cementboard are not waterproof.
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PLUMBING - replace toilte- easy, have done that. hoookups, easy. You say moving shower head is easy, but what if the pipe inside wall is metal/copper? is it PVC? If anything other than PVC that might include soldering/welding, right? Not skilled for that. To do this and move a sink I am anticipating $500-$600
It's probably copper unless your place is really new and then it would be Pex. It looks '90s so probably copper. The shower head line is just a straight pipe coming up from the valve with an angle attached to the end. Here's what they look like:
Since you'd have a valve and sink-related stuff to move you'll at least get your money's worth out of calling a plumber if you call them for that + putting the new tub valve in. Not a bad call to make.
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CABINETS - I doubt we go with pre-fab since we have to have specific measurements for it to work. Hence, why I am using my cabinet guy (which is separate from the cabinet quote on this quote)...custom built oak, stained, glass doors for ~$7K. Specific area of bath room the cabinets HAVE to be a certain size in order for the tub and shower to fit properly. If this is off some, it might mean we have to move tub drain? These type of things are what I don't know.
Dubi mentioned the filler panels already...
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COUNTERTOPS - agreed...just go find what you want, have them cut, delivered installed. If they do sinks too, great.
ELECTRICAL - this sounded outrageous to me too. I am not even convinced I want to move electrical around
PAINTING - would be something I can handle myself. This also probably includes a lot of sheetrock patching, texturing/floating too...which is not hard but not easy. We have a heavy texture...think it was referred to as Mexican something by one of my contractors. heavierand thicker than orange peel/knowckdown.
I had the same texture in SA. I think it showed up in the early '90s and has hung around ever since. That'll help make sheetrock patching easier. My advice though, if you're patching a lot of sheetrock in the ceiling you may want to find somebody for it. We all have things that we have little patience for and this one is mine.
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POCKET DOOR - reason for this is that the close door is two sliding doors. We were thinking of replacing that with a pocket door as long as we are able to put towel racks on the wall where the door slides into (the pocket). Don;t know if this is doable without better understanding the depth of each side of the pocket and whether it can hold towel rack screws/brackets and still be secure. Might just go with a single closet door or get sliding door that has a towel rack on the outside.
Pocket doors are great ,but keep in mind the length of the towel rack screws or you may get a nasty surprise. They're a bear to retrofit, moreso if it's going into a load bearing wall. I've inherited towel racks and holders that previous owners put into the sheetrock. Do yourself a favor and put some blocking in the wall to give the screws something to grab into.
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MIRROR - I am not paying that much money for a mirror. Will likely get frames for mirrors but can reuse what we have no problem.
I can handle all the fixtures...for the other major areas - I don't know what I don't know and that concerns me with trying to do it myself.
Fixtures are easy to hang - your biggest trouble may be finding what's available and weeding down the options. For the fart fans, if you have some already do yourself a favor and have a look at what size the existing box is. We learned that one the hard way.
It sounds like you're already well on your way to finding a better way to go about this whole bathroom thing.
