It is apparently a 2 wire added onto the end of a run with some other outlets and stuff that goes up to an outside light. Interestingly, there is onyl a white and green wire, but the old fixture only has those wires coming in, so the green must really be the black, and the white the white? I am trying to figure out how to tell which is really the hot and neutral since the colors are not code. NO WAY I am ripping out my new hardi siding to redo it. It is nowhere near a copper pipe, or other existing ground.

Do I need a ground wire for this for the new light fixture, or is the 2 wire arrangement ok? Do I need to create another ground point with a rod and ground wire?

Not a single outlet in my house is grounded, so yah (1939). You'll probably be fine as long as lightning doesn't strike. I just put up a brand new ceiling fan that is ungrounded and it works like a charm....so far.

But I should say that I am not an electrician and am ignorant when it comes to home wiring.

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I don't know what I'm talking about.

How old is the house and what's current code? If you sell, you may have to upgrade to current code. Ask an electrician and how easy / hard it would be to rewire.

"It is better to trust in the LORD than to put confidence in man," Psalm 118:8.

If you're DIY you need not worry about "current code"...well, the inspector is not going to tear apart the new light fixture to see if it's grounded anyway.

Just go with the two wires. White to white and black to the other. If the light has a ground wire you can run it to the box if you want.

You do not have to upgrade electrical to current codes unless you do a major remodel generally. Just don't do stupid dangerous stuff (sounds like you are trying not to.)

Was there a light there before? Was it working? Was it wired to the green and white? Are both wires insulated?

If yes to all of the above, then you should be fine just replacing it as is. But if you are concerned, call an electrician.

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green must really be the black, and the white the white?

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Probably. But if somebody used the wrong colors (especially green) and didn't include the grounding conductor, you never know.

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I am trying to figure out how to tell which is really the hot and neutral since the colors are not code.

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You need a multimeter, unless you can figure out where that stretch of wire originates to see the connections.

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Was there a light there before? Was it working? Was it wired to the green and white? Are both wires insulated?

If yes to all of the above, then you should be fine just replacing it as is.

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That. Ever notice that some lighting fixtures don't have color coded leads? The fixture is looking for 120V AC and won't care which is which. Unless you are getting into electronic low-voltage or dimming or something.

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Do I need to create another ground point with a rod and ground wire?

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There are actually occasions where that can make things worse. And technically, if you did that, it would have to be connected to the grounding electrode at your electrical service.

1982 home, but looks like the light was added on later. My siding contractor removed the old fixture a few weeks ago, and I told him to not worry about it because I wanted to replace it anyways. I finally got around to it, and noticed the color discrepancy. I'm putting an outdoor metal halide light up to light up my backyard, incidentally.

The old light worked on it, so the new one should, in theory. I just didn't want to reverse something and kill it since it isn't a simple light.

I'm gonna ask a dumb question because there was someone else involved, and no offense to siding contractors. Is there any chance there was a third wire originally which may have been compromised? Like damn, this wire nut won't turn loose so I'm a gonna yank and break the wire/pop it loose?

Do you know what type of ballast the MH fixture has? Magnetic core-and-coil ballasts aren't going to care which end is up, i.e. which is hot/neutral. Electronic solid-state ballasts potentially will be a tad more finicky.

How are you going to control the light - switch, photocell, etc.?

If you don't have a multimeter, you can probably also figure it out with a stick voltage detector.

I have a voltage detector and a multimeter, but I need a ground or something to test voltage to with the circuit energized. There is nothing even close by to use, since it is the outside of the house. I can test the presence of voltage between the two leads, but not the direction of the flow of current, without taking a wire lead to a ground.

It is a switched circuit, but the fixture is a dusk/dawn light with a sensor on it, too.

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If you sell, you may have to upgrade to current code.

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Everyone selling a house built before ~2003 would be screwed if this were the case.

MouthBQ, do you have a non-contact voltage detector? If so, you don't need a ground. Just turn the circuit on with both wires widely separated, and see which one is hot with the voltage detector.

I just wired white to white and green to black, and it works. Good enough for me.

I know this is an old post but I had similar situation today from house built back in the 60's. Replaced my daughters bedroom light. I used a non-conductive voltage tester ("tick" as my electrician friend calls it) and just made sure which one was hot. Put the light up and everything working fine.