Football Coach changing to White Collar Job... Building a wardrobe from scratch

10,113 Views | 79 Replies | Last: 3 yr ago by irish pete ag06
CC09LawAg
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I personally don't like the spread collar, but maybe I'm getting to be an old man haha. I feel the normal collar is more "traditional".

I am sure someone smarter than me can tell you that a spread collar looks good if you're taller and making fatter style knots in your tie or something.
htxag09
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Personally I'm a fan of the button collar
irish pete ag06
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These are all straight fire.
ChipFTAC01
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I too don't like the spread collar from Charles Tyrwhitt. Normal collar is fine.

They have stores now if you want to check their stuff out.

Unless you're fat, you probably want their extra slim shirts. I'm definitely not ski ng and still wear xslim
MRB10
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Spread collar is a bit more modern and it's just a matter of preference. Your googling probably told you all you need to know.
“There is no red.
There is no blue.
There is the state.
And there is you.”

“As government expands, Liberty contracts” - R. Reagan
$30,000 Millionaire
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Okay,

You're getting brand advice but not actual advice. Build your wardrobe over time and whatever you do, don't go into debt over it. The minimums you need:

Shirts:
- light blue with normal collar and cuff. French cuff is for ******s
- small check / houndstooth in any color: green, purple
- white bengal stripe
- window pane or grid check
- couple of solid shirts. Gray, salmon, light green, etc

Pants:
- black slacks, flat front
- gray slacks or chinos
- olive
- blue
- light brown (last choice for me)

Shoes:
- I wouldn't bother with leather bottom. Get some quality Cole Hahn or Ecco

Jackets:
- I don't really see anyone have the classic blue blazer much these days. I see a lot of windowpane type patterns. I would do navy and dark gray as the base colors, IF you need to wear a jacket.


You don’t trade for money, you trade for freedom.
CC09LawAg
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I like button down as well but have less of them since I don't like how they wear with a tie and I try to buy shirts that can either be worn with or without a tie.
Boy Named Sue
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Agree on CT Shirts, and for a nice touch get your monogram on the cuff.

You should only wear a button down collar if you go without a tie, though.

And if go without a tie, then always wear the button down collar.

I ditched shoes in favor of nice boots years ago, even with a suit.

My every day "in office casual" choice is jeans, ostrich or caiman boots, white or light blue button down shirt w/ button down collar, and a sport coat.

I don't even own a pair of khakis. It's either jeans or a suit for me.
ORAggieFan
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There is nothing worse than a button down collar. But, if you want to scream former football coach it will do the job almost as well as drifit polo and jeans.
ATM9000
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Just get stuff that fits. You don't need to go to a tailor for shirts necessarily but at least buy to collar size, sleeve length and buy shirts that don't fit like blouses. Realize, you tuck the shirt in, but blousy shirt vs well-fitted one makes a big big difference.

And I hate getting shirts cleaned by a dry cleaner. Most of them end up overstarching them eventually and think a good iron at home results in the shirts lasting longer as you take better care of them.
jh0400
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Charles Tyrwhitt shirts as mentioned. I can't help much on pants as I wear jeans 99% of the time I'm in the office these days. I have a couple of pairs of Mavi twill pants that I like. If they fit into the expectations of your office I'd give them a look. Finding shoes could be tricky. The current trend is toward dress shoe / sneaker hybrids, but they could be terribly out of place in your office.

I'd probably look to split the difference with something like https://www.johnstonmurphy.com/holden-plain-toe/12336.html?dwvar_12336_color=Taupe%20Suede#sz=58&start=1 until you have a better sense of what is acceptable and add from there. I have a couple of pairs of these and recommend them for comfort. Cole Haan Zerogrands are nice too, but some of their styles definitely swing more casual.

mosdefn14
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Boy Named Sue said:

You should only wear a button down collar if you go without a tie, though.

And if go without a tie, then always wear the button down collar.
Spot on. Button down collar when no tie is worn. Spread collar for me when wearing a tie. Maybe point depending on your knot preference.

Not sure about the white shirt hate in the thread. Pre Covid, it was either white (50%+ of the time) or some sort of small patterned blue or purple checked with suit/tie Monday through Thursday. Most other guys in the office wear a similar uniform. Makes picking a tie each morning infinitely easier.
jh0400
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I don't agree with the button-down collar comments. We should all be able to agree that a button-down collar doesn't look good with a tie, but wearing a traditional or spread collar with no tie can look fine as long as the shirt fits properly in the neck.
Duncan Idaho
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htxag09 said:

Personally I'm a fan of the button collar


Hidden button down collars are where it is at for no tie. With a tie: Spread or point is determined by the tie and the knot.
ATM9000
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jh0400 said:

I don't agree with the button-down collar comments. We should all be able to agree that a button-down collar doesn't look good with a tie, but wearing a traditional or spread collar with no tie can look fine as long as the shirt fits properly in the neck.


I personally think button down collar dress shirts don't look right. A spread collar with the proper neck fit with no tie looks just way sharper than a button down collar in my opinion.

A lot of button collars end up developing an awkward hoop in the area between the button and the collar that doesn't looks sloppy necessarily, but also doesn't look very natural.
$30,000 Millionaire
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I wear button downs and straight or spread collars. I don't care if someone thinks it looks goofy.
You don’t trade for money, you trade for freedom.
Diggity
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Love watching a bunch of guys that went to a land grant college wax philosophical about the propriety of a button down collar.
swimmerbabe11
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I'm kinda in to it.
irish pete ag06
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$30,000 Millionaire said:

Okay,

You're getting brand advice but not actual advice. Build your wardrobe over time and whatever you do, don't go into debt over it. The minimums you need:

Shirts:
- light blue with normal collar and cuff. French cuff is for ******s
- small check / houndstooth in any color: green, purple
- white bengal stripe
- window pane or grid check
- couple of solid shirts. Gray, salmon, light green, etc

Pants:
- black slacks, flat front
- gray slacks or chinos
- olive
- blue
- light brown (last choice for me)

Shoes:
- I wouldn't bother with leather bottom. Get some quality Cole Hahn or Ecco

Jackets:
- I don't really see anyone have the classic blue blazer much these days. I see a lot of windowpane type patterns. I would do navy and dark gray as the base colors, IF you need to wear a jacket.



Love it. Gracias amigo!
irish pete ag06
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Diggity said:

Love watching a bunch of guys that went to a land grant college wax philosophical about the propriety of a button down collar.
Meanwhile I'm watching this argument like...

EclipseAg
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Don't have anything to add but a real-life joke.

When I was a struggling young pup who had to wear a suit every day, my boss (a woman) said to me and my buddy one day:

"All the executives here get their suits at M Penner. What don't you guys shop there?"

And my buddy said, with expert comic timing: "Because we only make enough money to shop at M Warehouse."

Ba da bum.
natemr
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Dappered.com is a great site! This is where I heard about CT, Spier & McKay, Bonobos, etc. On Mondays and Thursdays they post the top sales for a lot of retailers and really stress good quality for a good price (as opposed to all the top fashion brands where you just pay for the name).

Also, for shoes...Allen Edmonds anniversary sale is going on right now.
Max Stonetrail
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I will chime in... much of what has said has been good.

You really didn't say if you would be wearing a jacket or just needed slacks and shirts.

Basics:
- Don't get all you stuff at one place or the same brand.

Pants:
- Get lined pants - in Texas, you will thank me. Also, these will be better pants and will last longer.
- The colors $30K recommended for pants are spot on.
- You need variety, not quantity. You do not need to dry clean good pants every time you wear them if you just go to the office and back.

Shoes:
- Get a basic pair of black and brown leather shoes (British Tan look the best in my opinion). Don't get anything with the stupid white soles people are sporting these days. Cole Haan (the sale section or 6PM are great places to get a good deal. Allen Edmonds is great also. Or any of the above off rack stores.
- Get a nice black and brown belt to go with above shoes.

Shirts:
- For shirts, if you are wearing a tie, do not get a button down collar. It's not the 90's and you aren't 23 years old. Sorry, that is reality. Get nice point or spread collars and get metal collar stays on Amazon. Throw the cheap plastic stays away.
- Look through the racks at the various OFF 5th, Nordstrom Rack, etc and find some with good patterns. Maybe have a basic blue and gray. Lean toward the more subtle patterns.
- Walk out of the store if nothing jumps out at you. You will have plenty of time and there all these off price stores have a different selection.
- Don't go whole hog buying a bunch of shirts from one custom outlet like CT. Nothing wrong with having a few though.
- Get shirts that will go with more than one pair of your pants so you can mix it up. You don't want people saying "Look Pete is wearing his Thursday outfit.

Jacket:
- If you only need one occasionally, get a black blazer. It will go with everything. You can add another color/patter later.
- If you need suits, start with charcoal gray. Either plain or subtle pattern. Then blue, then a brown shade. If you need multiple, don't go with something flashy or trendy until about your 5th suit.

Duncan Idaho
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When you get your suits tailored, splurge for surgeon's cuffs. The $/pimp ratio is off the chart.
Boy Named Sue
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jh0400 said:

I don't agree with the button-down collar comments. We should all be able to agree that a button-down collar doesn't look good with a tie, but wearing a traditional or spread collar with no tie can look fine as long as the shirt fits properly in the neck.
Since I'm the one who brought it up, I guess I should say I can go along with this.

By the way, to the OP, CT is running a 3 for $99 deal right now. Promo code "Daniel."
irish pete ag06
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Boy Named Sue said:

jh0400 said:

I don't agree with the button-down collar comments. We should all be able to agree that a button-down collar doesn't look good with a tie, but wearing a traditional or spread collar with no tie can look fine as long as the shirt fits properly in the neck.
Since I'm the one who brought it up, I guess I should say I can go along with this.

By the way, to the OP, CT is running a 3 for $99 deal right now. Promo code "Daniel."
I actually jumped on this last week. They targeted me via instagram or facebook, 3 for $89
Harkrider 93
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irish pete ag06 said:

$30,000 Millionaire said:

What are you doing for a job?
Working for a financial advising company that is adding a property and casualty insurance division. I will be the insurance division.
Know your clientele. If you are in smaller, older, conservative communities, a white shirt is best. Austin and younger would be a non-white shirt.

I wear a suit and CT white shirt most days in Austin. I look conservative. Some comment (even yesterday) on why I wear a suit. I have never lost business because I was in a suit with a white shirt. I also have short hair and no facial hair in the financial world.

I try to picture myself walking into an attorney's office and how I would react if they looked like me or looked like that guy who says "I may not look like an attorney, but they won't see me coming". I couldn't do business with someone who isn't dressed professionally. I also don't need someone in a white shirt.

Long winded way to say overdressing will never hurt, but underdressing can.

lb3
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Remember in the insurance world, you're dressing to show respect for your clients and project a conservative financial mindset. You're not trying to show your clients up or look like your commissions are off the chart.

So avoid the high end Italian brands and stick to off the rack options. But please see a tailor if the fit isn't perfect. Nothing looks worse than I'll fitting clothes.
Diggity
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lb3 said:

Remember in the insurance world, you're dressing to show respect for your clients and project a conservative financial mindset. You're not trying to show your clients up or look like your commissions are off the chart.

So avoid the high end Italian brands and stick to off the rack options. But please see a tailor if the fit isn't perfect. Nothing looks worse than I'll fitting clothes.
ill fitting apostrophes are a close second IMHO
TheMasterplan
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Don't wear khaki slacks.
91AggieLawyer
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Duncan Idaho said:

ORAggieFan said:

$30,000 Millionaire said:

What are you doing for a job?


This x 100. As well as location.


Yeah...I honestly don't think I could name a job where having a collection of white shirts would be appropriate. Even when I had to wear a suit every day, I think I had 3 white shirts.
If you are thinking about buying 8 white shirts, it tells me that you don't have any sense of fashion and will end up buying clothes that look like someone that coaches high school thinks people wear at a white collar job.

Don't buy a whole wardrobe before you start the job. Build a capsule wardrobe that will meet the mark and then buy more as you see what is appropriate for the job, company and clients. I remember my first job out of school. I went out and bought a bunch of suits and then got put on a business casual client and those suits sat in my closet until I went to a wedding or a funeral.

You don't need to spend a **** ton on clothes to look good. Tailoring is more important than anything else.




Oh don't go cheap on shoes. Nothing stands out more than a cheap pair of shoes.

I do recommend pick up a copy of this. It is 10+years old but I still think it does a good job of laying out the basics (especially for $10)

https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/6539862-nordstrom-guide-to-men-s-style



I know 12 people starred this post, but the bolded part couldn't be more incorrect -- especially if you're dealing with the public AND wearing a suit (with or without a tie). While there is some decent (though mildly inconsistent -- "don't need to spend..." and "don't go cheap on shoes.."), the white shirt thing ruins the post. I'm not going to say you can't wear anything other than a white shirt with a suit (sport coat/slacks are a different animal entirely), but if you're dealing with the public and/or wanting to be taken seriously by your dress, the white shirt will get you a long way there. Sure, subtle stripes and other similar features are fine, but John Molloy's "rules" in Dress for Success still apply. He didn't just recommend clothes based on his tastes; he showed pictures of men dressed certain ways to hundreds, even thousands, of people and asked them specific questions. Who do you trust? Who do you think makes more money? Etc. He based his findings on those studies.

Have a closet full (5-ish) of white shirts and you'll never be lacking if something comes up. You'll never get dinged for looking more conservative than others, especially as you get older. If you're in a career where trust or authority is in any way an issue, the more conservative the better. Not to mention the fact that you never have to worry about it working with whatever you're wearing. Would I prefer to wear a Navy sport jacket and dark gray slacks with a white shirt or a pinstripe or very soft plaid? Certainly one of the latter 2. But if neither were available and I didn't have any white ones available, what would I have to wear? Chinos and a sweater? Jeans when they weren't appropriate? A polo shirt of all things?

Leave the "sense of fashion" to the ladies. Instead, learn about men's timeless style and have a sense of that. The poster is right: you don't need to spend a fortune. But you do need to spend it wisely. White shirts never go out of style. I've got other shirts in my closet that I haven't worn in years.
Buford T. Justice
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I agree 100%.
There is another thread where I asked a question about Jos A Bank. The reason being, in my profession, my wardrobe needs to look put together, but not in a peacock manner. A smidge of Dr. Cheap suit with an underlying understanding as to how to put together a look.
AggieDruggist89
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I have 5 fitted white dress shirts among other colors in my closet, mostly 100% cotton. Brooks Brothers Soho and Milano fits. Reagent (regular size) fit is really for BMI above 30 which is the norm I guess.

I have 6 pairs of Johnston and Murphy all leather soles. 3 black and 3 brown. Black and brown Oxfords and Brogues. And 2 pairs of ankle boot dress shoes.

And yes, I have a shoeshine kit with wax, sponge and brushes. Haven't had to spitshine em.

I expect I will not need any more dress shoes rest of my career.
OasisMan
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what is the pants version of CT-shirts ?
JRizzle
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Sounds weird but lululemon makes some dressier slack type pants that are stupid comfortable for business casual. Id try them out. They are soft and stretchy and look good. For regular office wear it'd by my go to. Obviously a suit if in front of clients...

JR
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