Big Bend travel advice

2,011 Views | 18 Replies | Last: 1 day ago by RC_57
valvemonkey91
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AG
Never been. Going this fall. Looking for advice and how to set expectations on accommodations. Traveling at a slower pace with elderly. I read that Chisos Mountain Lodge is still open after budget cuts to the renovation project that was to have closed it starting in May.

What are the recommendations on "must sees".

I do want to stay at Gage Hotel at some point during trip.

Should we stay outside park? Rent Airbnb's? Rent an RV?

Is Terlingua worth the trip?
Should I do the Gringo Honeymoon (without
the elderly ) as a day trip?

Tell me about Lajitas?

Santa Elena Canyon
A. G. Pennypacker
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AG
The wife and I went at the end of March. I read through this post before going to help plan our trip.

https://texags.com/forums/54/topics/3594668/1

Must see - in my limited experience
  • Lost Mine hike
  • Santa Elena Canyon
  • cross the border to Boquillas - only open on certain days - I think Friday-Sun, but need to check that. And with all the rain, if the Rio Grande is rolling, it might be a bit more adventurous.
  • We stayed in Study Butte and had dinner in Terlingua - Starlight Theatre and Long Draw Pizza. Starlight is an experience, but food is so-so. Pizza place actually served really good pizza.
We stayed our last night at the Gage hotel. The restaurant there is really good.

milner79
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  • As Pennypacker said, the "Gringo Honeymoon" crossing is only permitted certain days of the week ... maybe Thursday-Saturday. IMPORTANT: a passport is required for the river crossing (REK never sang about that, did he ...). I've never done this, but apparently there is a kiosk there where you communicate with Customs and provide your passport. The whole place is fenced and gated for those days when crossing is not permitted. (East side of the park)
  • In addition to Lost Mine, consider hiking the Window trail up in the Chisos Basin. Hiking up to Emory Peak, highest point in the park, is also a day trip if that is of interest. A longer hike (over-achievers do it in a day) is the South Rim hike. Beautiful sunsets. I like to camp out there, but that requires a backcountry permit. (Central part of the park)
  • Sotol Vista is a great place to watch sunset. (West side of the park)
  • Hot springs down along the river can be an interesting place for a soak if water levels are right. (East side of the park)
  • In all cases, be sure you have water and some food with you as you travel around the park. It is a big place and services are extremely limited.
AgRyan04
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How physically active is the elderly that you're traveling with?
HollywoodBQ
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AG
  • Gage Hotel Restaurant is an excellent last stop in "The World" before heading out to camp in Big Bend.
  • Be sure to keep your fuel tank as full as you can before heading into Big Bend.
  • If driving at night, watch out for wildlife in the road (basic Texas knowledge).
  • I've camped in Chisos Basin at the end of 2023 & 2024, it was great. There are other camping options in the park.
  • If you go to the parking lot near Boquillas, be sure to lock your car and hide valuables from the Caballeros.
  • Santa Elena Canyon is amazing. I genuinely had no idea that existed in Texas.
  • There are a few remote sites worth taking a look at if you're up for some trail driving.
Not sure where you're coming from but... when you get on I-10 headed East and you're around Mile Marker 250, knowing you've got to get back past 750 to get to Houston, it's a long drive.

Also, in Dec. 2024, we did see some illegals rounded up by Border Patrol so, keep an eye out. That was the first time my daughter figured out that there really were people who illegally cross the border so, it was fun watching the light bulb come on for her.
valvemonkey91
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AgRyan04 said:

How physically active is the elderly that you're traveling with?
. In their late 60's. Not going to do any extreme trails. I feel confident they could make a 3 mile hike if weather permits.
TRD-Ferguson
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AG
It's bigger than you think. It's expensive lodging wise and some of that expensive lodging is mediocre. Restaurants are busy and expensive.

I'd typically suggest you stay in the lodge to have better access to things to see. I think the restaurant is closed though. If that's true you'll want to stay in Study Butte or Terlingua.

I'm 70 and have hiked and backpacked BB for decades. I've been there twice this year on backpacking trips. Just know a 3 mile hike in BB is not anything like a 3 mile walk your elderly folks may be accustomed to.

The Window Trail and Lost Mine are excellent hikes in or near the Basin where the lodge is. Higher altitude so not as hot as the desert. Both have a lot of uphill at points and it can get warm and dry from midday forward. Make sure all of you have water and electrolytes for those hikes. Remember you have to get back from where you began so if at any point that is in doubt for your elderly folks turnaround. The desert is not kind.

They may enjoy driving in the car to points of interest. Get out and walk a few hundred yards rather than miles. Boquillas Canyon Overlook, Hot Springs, Balanced Rock, Sotol Vista, Tuff Canyon and Santa Elena Canyon all come to mind. That will take a
full day.

Lajitas is a golf resort. Has all of the amenities of such a place. A drive out past Lajitas to the "big hill" overlooking the Rio Grande is a pretty landscape scene.

Star Light is a great place to eat for the experience There was a 1 hour line to get in at 5pm the last two times I was there this year. Chile Pepper is smaller has good food and most tourists don't know about it. Nothing fancy but you don't have to wait to eat. Keep in mind the distance to Terlingua from anywhere is so great that not many food providers go there. As a result all the food every where is similar. Some places to do better than others.

It's beautiful and my favorite place to go. I wasn't trying to be discouraging with my comments above. Just be aware that while it is remote it has been discovered.
HollywoodBQ
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AG
Forgot to add - get yourself a "Jerry Can" and bring a good amount of water. It can be hot and dry out there.

I throw 7 gallons of water from home in the back of my Jeep and that's enough for 2 people for 4-5 days.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reliance-Aqua-Tainer-Water-Container-7-Gallon/872426
maverick12
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We've stayed at Lajtas a couple of times. Nice, older resort with good restaurants and an amazing golf course. It has easy access to Terlingua to the east and Big Bend Ranch State Park to the west. We didn't hike Big Bend Ranch, but the views from the highway were amazing. The negative is that it's a bit of a drive to Big Bend. I think it was around an hour. Within the park, crossing into Boquillas for lunch was a cool experience.
AgRyan04
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valvemonkey91 said:

AgRyan04 said:

How physically active is the elderly that you're traveling with?
. In their late 60's. Not going to do any extreme trails. I feel confident they could make a 3 mile hike if weather permits.


Just make sure to check the elevation gains on the trails

Lost Mines isn't hard but it is definitely not flat.....same with the Window Trail - it's easy going down to the pour off but you have to hike right back uphill to get back out.

Lower Burrow Mesa, Upper Burrow Mesa, Chimneys Trail (not hard at all but it is completely exposed), Balanced Rock, Santa Elena Canyon, Boquillas Canyon give a really good flavor of the park outside of the Chisos and are very manageable. Up in the Chisos, if Lost Mine and the Window Trail are deemed to be too out of their comfort zone, the Basin Loop Trail is short and gets you into the trees a bit.

I'd also recommend Sam Nail Ranch Trail off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Byway.

Definitely keep a full tank and plenty of water. From Santa Elena to Boquillas is a haul.

Enjoy! Big Bend is one of my favorite places on earth!
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AgRyan04
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TRD-Ferguson said:

It's bigger than you think. It's expensive lodging wise and some of that expensive lodging is mediocre. Restaurants are busy and expensive.

I'd typically suggest you stay in the lodge to have better access to things to see. I think the restaurant is closed though. If that's true you'll want to stay in Study Butte or Terlingua.

I'm 70 and have hiked and backpacked BB for decades. I've been there twice this year on backpacking trips. Just know a 3 mile hike in BB is not anything like a 3 mile walk your elderly folks may be accustomed to.

The Window Trail and Lost Mine are excellent hikes in or near the Basin where the lodge is. Higher altitude so not as hot as the desert. Both have a lot of uphill at points and it can get warm and dry from midday forward. Make sure all of you have water and electrolytes for those hikes. Remember you have to get back from where you began so if at any point that is in doubt for your elderly folks turnaround. The desert is not kind.

They may enjoy driving in the car to points of interest. Get out and walk a few hundred yards rather than miles. Boquillas Canyon Overlook, Hot Springs, Balanced Rock, Sotol Vista, Tuff Canyon and Santa Elena Canyon all come to mind. That will take a
full day.

Lajitas is a golf resort. Has all of the amenities of such a place. A drive out past Lajitas to the "big hill" overlooking the Rio Grande is a pretty landscape scene.

Star Light is a great place to eat for the experience There was a 1 hour line to get in at 5pm the last two times I was there this year. Chile Pepper is smaller has good food and most tourists don't know about it. Nothing fancy but you don't have to wait to eat. Keep in mind the distance to Terlingua from anywhere is so great that not many food providers go there. As a result all the food every where is similar. Some places to do better than others.

It's beautiful and my favorite place to go. I wasn't trying to be discouraging with my comments above. Just be aware that while it is remote it has been discovered.


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ShinerBlonde
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AG
We liked the Gage and it's worth a 1 night stay. They do give you ear plugs when you check in because of the train but we used them to block out the hallway noise. I enjoyed the pool and the BBQ restaurant right there. We love staying in Lajitas at the Lajitas Golf Resort. They have a pool, a bar, a nice restaurant, a place to get pizza, sandwiches and ice cream and activities you can do like golf or horseback riding. There aren't a lot of places to eat out there so it becomes important to plan for that. Although you must eat at the Starlight Diner at least once while you are near Big Bend. The chicken fried antelope with beer gravy is amazing. At Big Bend we loved the Lost Mine trail, Balanced rock, the window and Santa Elena. We've done others but those are all easily doable and have great views especially Lost Mine. I recommend doing it first thing in the day before it gets too busy or hot. I also recommend checking out Big Bend State park if you stay in Lajitas. We also loved visiting Balmorreah while we were out that way but bring floats. Also, if you get a chance to go to Ft Davis and the Davis Mountains State Park it's worth a drive and so of course the McDonald Observatory. Marfa is a cute little town to visit and you should visit Marfa Burrito if you go. Alpine is really cute too. We've stayed at the Holland Hotel and visited Sul Ross and the museum there and hiked to the desk. There are so many great things to do out in that part of Southwest Texas. Gas up when you can because there aren't a lot of options out there.
Blonde Coffee Beans
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Ive considered going back to Big Bend. I haven't been since 1994. This thread brought back old memories. I swear we stayed at the Chisos Mountain Lodge upon looking at photos online.

At age 14, I went on a hike by myself. I got lost! A 911 call, and a 2 park ranger search later I was found at 2am. My mother was terrified
"I don't care about your feelings OP. I'm not going to let fandom replace reason, thought, and history"
Ogre09
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AG
I like the folks at Far Flung Outdoors in Terlingua. They have cabins to rent that are air conditioned and heated. They have fridges and microwaves and on site grills. They do canoe trips on the Rio Grande which is always one of my favorite activities there.

Places to eat in Terlingua:
El Gordo's food truck
Chili Pepper Cafe
Tivo's Place
Rustic Iron BBQ
Espresso y Poco Mas (breakfast)

Fall can be hot or cold or nice. Dry desert heat will kill you. Watch out for it.

Pack plenty of water.

Hikes for folks who don't want strenuous hikes:

Ernst Tinaja (need 4x4 truck or suv)
Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff
Balanced Rock
Mule Ears Trail
Window Trail
Boquillas Canyon Trail
Sta Elena Canyon
RGV Nature Trail
Jolie.gray
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AG
We like to start at Terlingua and work our way back. If you golf at all, it's worth a cart rental and green fee to go through the golf course at LaJitas. It's beautiful. The spa is too notch as well. The accommodations are not super fancy, but the grounds are incredibly well maintained and there are several things to do. We did not stay long enough before heading back east.

Marfa is skippable in our family's opinion. There is a cute grocery store, The Get Go, and a good Italian place (it's sort of off the beaten path). Prada Marfa (if your group has any interest) is not actually in Marfa. It's farther west and requires some planning if you're making that trip.

Balmorhea is 100% worth the trip up the road. I believe they have opened the accommodations back up. You usually need to reserve time slots ahead. If you don't stay in the park, you can stay in Fort Davis; we always attend a star party at the observatory. You can stay in the park there or in town.

We love Alpine. Reata Restaurant is one of our favorites. Downtown is walkable. Some book stores and things. They also have an old baseball field that still holds games that's worth a stop. We usually stay at The Gage when we do Alpine. The Gage has the Gage Gardens, the pool, the barbecue restaurant, and the on-site restaurant. They also have larger accommodations if you're interested that instead of separate hotel rooms. The little grocery store in Marathon sometimes has live music. It's a cute scene.

We like to take old 90 at least part of the way home sometimes to see the Rio Grande at Comstock. You can also check out Lake Amistad if it has any water.
PerdidoKey2030
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AG
Great info from AG Pennypacker, TD- Ferguson and Ogre09...I have visited/dealt with all and with your elderly folks in mind will make for a memorable and doable trip.
512Ag
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On top of what others have said, the drive on 170 through Big Bend Ranch State Park is worth it if you have time. Hugs the river between Lajitas and Presidio and has some really nice scenery.
https://visitbigbend.com/camino-del-rio/

I didn't discover Big Bend until I was an adult, but man am I glad I finally did. It's among my favorite places on this earth.
LandArchSA
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ShinerBlonde said:

and the BBQ restaurant right there.

Brick Vault Brewery & BBQ in Marathon is legit. Started several years ago by the Reese Brothers (now of San Antonio fame) and I think the new owners continued a lot of the same menu.

And a drink at the White Buffalo or dinner at the Gage is never a bad choice either.
RC_57
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