Utah Mighty Five in 10 Days - Warning Pic Heavy

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malenurse
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Finally had a chance to sit down and go through my notes and pictures. Wife and I visited The Mighty Five National Parks in Utah last week. Flights from Houston to Vegas were stupid cheap on Southwest. $50.00 there and $118.00 for the return. Rented a car in Vegas and hit the road.

First stop: Mt Carmel, UT which was a little crossroads town somewhat in between Zion NP and Bryce Canyon NP.

The drive to Zion NP


Just outside the visitors center Zion


Entrance to the Narrows in Zion. Didn't have the right clothes or equipment for that hike as most of it is wading up river.


I really wanted to do Angel's Landing, but our first two "easy" hikes convinced my I would probably die if I tried it.
Stayed two days in Mt Carmel seeing most of Zion and part of Bryce Canyon. Left and spent one night in Tropic, UT and finished up Bryce the next day.

The big difference between Bryce and Zion, in Zion you're in the bottom of the canyon looking up and in Bryce you're on the rim looking down.

Bryce "hoodoos"


more "hoodoos"



The colors and vastness of Bryce were just incredible and it really was our favorite of the five.

We left Bryce and drove to Torrey, UT for two nights close to Capitol Reef NP. The hidden gem here was the Skyridge B&B in Torrey which was marvelous and the breakfasts were awesome.

An incomplete arch. We decided to return in a couple of million years to see it when it's complete.


Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon. Hard to tell because of perspective, but both are nearly the same size.


Chimney Rock.



Cathedral Valley


Capitol Reef is very long and narrow and can be mostly seen from the car with a few short hikes from pull off areas. Lots of driving on 4WD roads which my rented Ford Edge handled well.

Left Torrey and drove to Moab along scenic Rt 12 which is one of the prettiest drives in the US. Another gem which a couple at breakfast told us about is Goblin Valley State Park. It took about 1.5 hours out of the way but was really one of the most interesting sites we saw. Great place for the kids to get out and run around.

Goblin Valley


3 night in Moab to see Canyonlands NP and Arches NP. Moab is a really cool city that has become very touristy. Lots of eating and shopping to do.

Canyonlands is HUUUUUUUGGE. You can't drive from one end to the other because of the canyon. From Moab the north entrance is 22 miles and then drive back to Moab and the south entrance is 62 miles.

Natural Bridge


Newspaper Rock with native american petroglyphs


an old cowboy campground


The Green River carving out a masterpiece before it merges with the Colorado and creates the Grand Canyon


A natural shelter with many generations of native american artifacts


And now..... Arches NP

The Windows


Double Arch


Delicate Arch, this hike kicked my ass. Remember, my wife and I live almost at sea level. This was around 7,000 feet and lots of climbing.


Too many arches. I forgot this one's name.


Landscape Arch. Part of this one fell in 1998. Look close and you can see how thin it is on the right side.


After the last night we got up early and drove about halfway to Vegas to Cedar City, UT. A cool college town (Utah St). After wonderful weather all week we drove through rain, sleet and some snow on the way back. Found a great pizza place and had a little sumpin' sumpin' as a reward for a great vacation.


10 days, 1700 miles and a well worn Ford Edge. I really thought I had destroyed that car on a very rocky switchback in Canyonlands. All I know, is I rented a grey car and turned in a reddish brown one with a ****load of sand in the carpets.

Some thoughts. My wife and I are both 60 but in good health. Some of the hikes were very strenuous, but the views at the end were well worth it. When driving, and the sign says 60 miles to next service, THEY MEAN IT. Watch your fuel. Carry lots of water. The weather is very mild but dry. I can't imaging some of those hikes in July or August. The crowds weren't bad until we got to Arches. One morning we slept in and got to the park around 9:30 and it took 45 minutes to get in.

Original plan was to continue on the Salt Lake City and fly home from there but the rental car penalty was just stupid so we returned to fly home from Vegas.

I'll probably think of some more stuff tomorrow and maybe post some more.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
nosoupforyou
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Incredible!! Was it easy to just grab a hotel each place? Or did you make reservations well in advance for each night?
malenurse
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Nosoup: As is typical for me, I started planning this trip last November. All flights, accomodations and rental car reservations were done months in advance.

I talked to friends who made this trip last fall and picked their brains for activities at the parks and also recommendations on places to stay and other places to visit.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
Head Ninja In Charge
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So awesome.
gigemhilo
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I've been to Zion - it was the most beautiful place I have ever been in the US and I plan on taking my wife and kids to hike Angels Landing and the Narrows one day. We also did a 3 day hike through Parnueweap Canyon instead. One of the greatest experiences of my life.


I would like to see the other places you went too.
Throwout
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Thanks for sharing your pics. My parents lived in Moab while I was in college and for several years afterwards--I love that place. If anybody ever needs any recommendations for Moab, just let me know.
kdm_01
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I got to hike Angels Landing last August. A great way to do it to avoid some of the heat is to be waiting for the first bus when they begin running at 6:00.
(Buy your park entrance the day before if necessary.)
There were probably two bus loads of folks waiting by 6:00 so not much solitude for the hike but the pack thinned out as folks found their pace heading up.

It was a great hike. Didn't linger long at the top as I hiked alone and needed to meet the wife/kids in town later to see the park together. Made it back to town about 10:30.
The top was fantastic and the switchbacks of Walters Wiggles were, memorable.
nosoupforyou
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Throwout said:

Thanks for sharing your pics. My parents lived in Moab while I was in college and for several years afterwards--I love that place. If anybody ever needs any recommendations for Moab, just let me know.
yes please! I am learning still but feels like the area is called Moab and included in Moab is Arches and Canyonlands? Is that correct?

We will be visiting that region - so anything you can provide to help us plan would be really appreciated - can we stay in 1 place and visit both parks? What would our days look like at those 2 parks? THings to do, etc. My kids (ages 16-10) don't like long hikes so likely will avoid hikes longer than 2 hours there, unless it's The Hike to do that you absolutely can't miss

thanks in advance - as I build out my itinerary I'll use everything you share!
BSD
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Thanks for posting. We are hitting up Zion and Bryce over Thanksgiving. I'm expecting the hike thru the Narrows to be cold! And Bryce may have some snow by then.
javajaws
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nosoupforyou said:

Throwout said:

Thanks for sharing your pics. My parents lived in Moab while I was in college and for several years afterwards--I love that place. If anybody ever needs any recommendations for Moab, just let me know.
yes please! I am learning still but feels like the area is called Moab and included in Moab is Arches and Canyonlands? Is that correct?

We will be visiting that region - so anything you can provide to help us plan would be really appreciated - can we stay in 1 place and visit both parks? What would our days look like at those 2 parks? THings to do, etc. My kids (ages 16-10) don't like long hikes so likely will avoid hikes longer than 2 hours there, unless it's The Hike to do that you absolutely can't miss

thanks in advance - as I build out my itinerary I'll use everything you share!
The town of Moab is literally 5 mins from the entrance to Arches. 45 min or longer depending on how you go from Canyonlands.

Since you have kids, Moab Valley RV resort and campground has some nice cabins for cheap you could look into. Adventure Inn comes highly rated as well as far as motels go. You'll need to book a room early wherever you stay - especially if going in spring/fall.

Moab Diner has some good food.

Arches is REALLY crowded...get to the entrance before the park opens up for best results.

Be sure to go to Dead Horse Point State park overlook (west of Moab off one road that takes you to Canyonlands). DO NOT SKIP THIS!

If you have a high clearance vehicle (with or without 4 wheel drive), highly suggest you pick up the following book and drive some of the easier offroad trails...which aren't much more than dirt roads. If you have a Jeep, even better and up the difficulty.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Moab-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails-ebook/dp/B01HU8ZP5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526403350&sr=8-1&keywords=moab+trails

If your not afraid of heights be sure to drive the Shafer Switchbacks!
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." - Ben Franklin
nosoupforyou
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more of a general question for everybody - here's my plan for May 2019 (wife and 4 kids ages 10-16)

Fly into Phoenix
Sedona
Monument Valley
Arches NP
Canyonlands NP
Capitol Reef
Bryce Canyon
Zion NP
Grand Canyon
Fly home from Las Vegas

Would you recommend cabin/motel at each stop or RV for a trip like this? Assume 10-12 days to do the above
kdm_01
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Sounds like a great trip ahead of you. I'd consider an RV to help save repeated hotel packing/unpacking. May park camping reservations may be in lower demand than summer peak too.
malenurse
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Soup, when I ran the numbers, the RV didn't make sense. The higher rental and then RV parking rates didn't save $ compared to rental car and hotels/B&Bs. Only made sense if splitting the cost with another couple.

Now, your situation with 4 kids throws a whole new dynamic into the picture. Consider these and make the decision which works best:

* Some parks are relatively close and can be seen from one location. Zion/Bryce and Arches/Canyonlands
* RVs will limit some of your accesability, but this can be countered by either renting jeeps or taking a jeep tour
* You will probably need 2 hotel rooms if not using an RV
* Check and see what the penalty for dropping off from a different location that picking up
* Having your own emergeny bathroom and the ability to eat on the road will be time saving and convenient
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
AgRyan04
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To the OP - awesome trip....thanks for sharing!

Regarding RV rental.....We have a small travel trailer that we road trip in....a couple other things to think about with an RV without another vehicle:

Parking. This can be a challenge....Not only do you need more space to physically park but you need to be able to manuever as well. Thinking about Springdale (where Zion is) specifically - a lot of those parking lots are more like the parking lot at Laynes (the original location) than a Walmart. A lot of the National Parks also have limited RV parking, some of it limited to near the visitor centers). It would be a challenge without another vehicle.

If it is your only vehicle, you will have to disconnect electric/water/sewer and secure everything for travel every time you want to drive somewhere.

Also, check out the restrictions on the tunnel between Zion & Bryce....there are some size restrictions.

A lot of the RV campgrounds have cabins you can rent that are less expensive than a hotel room. If they dont have enough beds, you may be able to get a tent site and have a couple of you sleep in a tent.
nosoupforyou
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gigemhilo said:

I've been to Zion - it was the most beautiful place I have ever been in the US and I plan on taking my wife and kids to hike Angels Landing and the Narrows one day. We also did a 3 day hike through Parnueweap Canyon instead. One of the greatest experiences of my life.


I would like to see the other places you went too.

Quick question - regarding Parnueweap Canyon - we are driving from Zion to Vegas with 30-60 minutes to spare at most - is it worth driving 10 minutes out of the way to check it out? You guys did a 3 day hike so not an option here, but sometimes going in and seeing the entrance and initial views can be good enough?

We leave next Saturday!
nosoupforyou
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BSD said:

Thanks for posting. We are hitting up Zion and Bryce over Thanksgiving. I'm expecting the hike thru the Narrows to be cold! And Bryce may have some snow by then.
Glad you went before the snow - we leave next Saturday and I called Zion to check on some things and they said due to the heavy snow, the Narrows is closed! UGH! they said to consider the Riverside Walk so I may do that instead...
nosoupforyou
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thanks for the tips!

We leave next Saturday for our RV trip - from Phoenix, through Utah, and out of Vegas and fly back to Houston.

We booked the RV a Moab Valley RV Park

We plan to eat Dinner at Moab Diner

I added Dead Horse State park to the itinerary - we will hit up Canyonlands that morning - then late afternoon go to Dead Horse - which I saw is where Mission Impossible 2 was filmed.. cool! then back to Moab Valley RV Park for the night.

Can you help me with my plan at Dead Horse? Just drive through? Get out and stop for some hikes? Assume we have 2-5 hours there..
nosoupforyou
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just wanted to thank you again for your plan details - I was able to use so much of it as I built out my plan.. been planning it for over a year - .we leave next Saturday!

This high-level itinerary looks too busy, but some we will just pass through, no doubt. - when I get back, I'll share the detailed plan

Utah Trip
12 days/11 nights 1,455 Miles

Phoenix 0 nights Camelback Mountain
Sedona 1 night Sedona, Slide Rock, Grand Canyon, Horseshoe Bend
Page - 1 night Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon, Monument Valley
Monument Valley 1 night Arches National Park
Moab 1 night Canyonlands NP, Dead Horse State Park
Moab 1 night Goblin Valley, Little Wild Horse Canyon, Capitol Reef
Torrey 1 night - Capitol Reef, Boulder, Escalante
Bryce Canyon 1 night Bryce Canyon, Grand Staircase, Willis Creek Slot, Kodachrome
Mount Carmel 2 nights Zion, Red Canyon Slot, Coral Pink Sand Dunes
Las Vegas 2 nights
AgRyan04
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We're in the middle of our Utah trip

Capitol Reef was great - the campground at Fruita was perfect

Heads up at Bryce -- Navajo Loop was still closed as of yesterday. We took Queens Garden into the canyon.

If you're going to do Angel's Landing, take the advice above - go early. We did it on Tuesday and I wouldn't do it if you are getting on the shuttle after 9am - I can't imagine what it is like on a regular weekend or even in high season. The parking lot at the visitor center was about 1/2 full at 7:30a...but the shuttle starts in town so you can park there if need to.

Moab seems a lot more touristy than it was a few years ago.
AgRyan04
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Also, going between Capitol Reef and Bryce, take HW 12. Its about 30 min longer than the suggested route on Google Maps, but it was one of our favorite stretches of HW we've ever been on - definition of "scenic highway"
nosoupforyou
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Nice! Hope your trip is going great! very nice of you to post when you have a break.

Appreciate the feedback on Hwy 12 - I saw someone mention that elsewhere - here's my detailed plan for that portion - I got these notes from other posters but don't really know if it's accurate -
Having just driven this, if you can share specific details on this, that would be great! Where to park/drive, etc?



o Drive 15 minutes to Capitol Reef National Park - spend about a half day
Temple of the Sun and Moon, Chimney Rock, Cathedral Valley

o Drive 1 hour on Highway 12 - to Boulder and then 30 minutes to Escalante
Slot Canyons, Devil's Backbone, Petrified Forest, Devil's Garden, pictographs, Hickman's Arch

o Drive 1 hour to Bryce Canyon and arrive late. Dinner at Ruby's Inn closes at 9:30

NEXT DAY

o Drive 15 minutes to Bryce Canyon - Shuttle to the end of the park and see Bryce Point.
o Hike the Rim trail to Inspiration Point. Also consider Fairyland Loop Trail and Bristlecone Pine Loop.
o Lunch at Valhalla Pizza but also coffee/breakfast
o Hike Queen's Garden and Navajo Loop Priority! Start at Sunset Point. Hike north (left) along the canyon rim until you reach Sunrise Point. From there follow the Queens Garden Trail to a 4 way intersection down at the bottom of the canyon. Continue straight ahead into the Wall Street half of Navajo Loop which will return you back to Sunset Point.
o Drive 45 minutes to quickly view Willis Creek Slot Canyon, then 30 minutes to Kodachrome State Park
malenurse
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AgRyan04
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We actually didnt stop anywhere along 12 to get out....but it was beautiful.

For your Bryce itinerary - a couple of notes

- As of Wednesday Navajo Loop was still closed due to snow so we couldn't link the Queens Garden trail with it. Queens Garden on it's own was a nice hike down into the canyon though. And you can still see Thor's Hammer from the rim trail.

- Our bus driver said that Valhalla Pizza (in the Lodge) was not open for the season yet, but it may be by the time you arrive....it sounded like it was opening soon.

- The shuttle is the way to go. You can take it directly from Ruby's Inn or you can drive into the park, park at the visitors center and then catch the shuttle. We stayed at the KOA in Cannonville so we just drove into the park to catch it but if you're staying at Ruby's it's probably easier.

- In Utah, wine can only be purchased at a liquor store....and liquor stores are damn near non-existant in that entire region of the state. If you want wine, you can buy it at Ruby's. Ruby's was the hero of the trip for my wife.

In Capitol Reef, we hiked Grand Wash and it was pretty awesome. Its 4.4 miles (in and out or 2.2 mile 1-way if you have a ride from the other side - VERY flat) in between big sandstone cliffs.

There is a shorter hike, Capitol Wash, that is about half of that distance. We didnt do it but if we had more time we would have.

Also, if you're looking for something to do in Page, AZ we were going to hike Hanging Garden Trail, but were running late on our drive time so we had to skip it. It looked pretty awesome - I was pretty bummed we had to skip it.

Have fun!
BigJim49 AustinNowDallas
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malenurse said:

Nosoup: As is typical for me, I started planning this trip last November. All flights, accomodations and rental car reservations were done months in advance.

I talked to friends who made this trip last fall and picked their brains for activities at the parks and also recommendations on places to stay and other places to visit.
Great pics! Thanks, malenurse .
BigJim49AustinnowDallas
chris1515
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Great thread. Thanks OP!

I was in Vegas last December and made a "quick" trip to Zion. Unfortunately it was only 40 degrees and way too cold to fully enjoy it. I'll definitely go back when it's a bit warmer.
txaggiefarmer05
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You might follow Zion nps on Instagram. Basically, the narrows is closed if flow is over 150 cfs. Apparently they've been getting a lot of rain. If it drops below 150 cfs and stays below for x amount of days, it reopens.
If you get to hike it, rent the shoes/walking stick from the front. The visitor info man at the front said I didn't need them. I had water shoes(no ankle support) and almost made it back to the front before I slid on an underwater rock and tweaked my ankle.
Sure made hiking Bryce Canyon more difficult the next day.
48secDunk
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My family (2 kids ages 12 and 9) have been wanting to do a similar trip as well. My parents live in Mesa, so we would fly out to see them. Do the Grand Canyon and then hit some of the parks in Utah.

My wife and I are both teachers so we'd have to wait til June to have 2 weeks to see and do everything. Is June an insane time to go for weather, crowds, and prices?

Thanks for the help.
nosoupforyou
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i added all of these ideas to my itinerary- thank you!!
nosoupforyou
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My trip from Phoenix to Vegas through all the Mighty 5 in Utah and more was great! Here's a few highlights


Zion National Park - Angels Landing was incredible!!


Bryce Canyon


Canyoneering in Arches National Park was great - here's the first one we went down


Here's the second one we went down - wow!!


Best hike was to Delicate Arch - lots of different terrains to get there and a huge payoff - do it!!


not the best photo but Coral Pink Sand Dunes was a lot of fun - near Zion - recommend!


Iconic - this is called Forrest Gump Hill - don't miss it on the way through Monument Valley


Underrated State Park - Goblin Valley - kids loved hiding and running around the 'goblins'


Horseshoe Bend - we hiked to it but this is from the helicopter tour - amazing


Kodachrome State Park - near Zion - another underrated park - not many people and kids roamed a lot


Little Wild Horse Canyon was really cool slot canyon with few people- very near Goblin Valley


Near Sedona - this is Slide Rock State Park - this was a blast and the water was 45 degrees in late May but you only live once so my kids all did it!
oldag00
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Thanks for sharing your pictures and experience.

Did you book a tour operator for the canyoneering at Arches NP? Or did you bring your own equipment?

How long did you spend at Slide Rock State Park?
nosoupforyou
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we used a company called Desert Highlights 9:30-2:30 Medieval Chamber Canyoneering Adventure. Give them a call (click on hyperlink) and they can tell you about various tours they offer.

Slide Rock State Park We were there probably 90 minutes. Wear your swimsuits - walk 10 minutes to the slide rocks. There is a place to slide (that's my photo) and 100 feet from there is a jumping-in spot that you also have to do (well.. only my kids did this...). They were in the water about 20 minutes total, then we dried off and got back to the car. You could do it all in an hour if you skipped the little store they had for souvenirs and the monument house they had.

anything else let me know!
oldag00
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Thanks!

Other than the canyoneering and the helicopter tour, were there any other tours or guided activities you paid to do (e.g. Jeep tour, horseback riding) that your family enjoyed?
nosoupforyou
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Yes.. we did the Pink Jeep tour in Sedona

I have my full itinerary listed on a thread somewhere else.. I can PM it to you if you haven't seen it.. I put a lot of research into the trip from Phoenix through Utah and finished in Vegas and updated the itinerary after we finished with more details

See if you can find that other thread for more details
oldag00
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I found it. Thanks again.
48secDunk
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We leave Sunday! Can't wait!
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