My father wants to go backpacking this year around late August or September. He just bought some land in Colorado, and wants to start getting into some more camping and hiking, and I wanted to take him on a trip this summer.

I have backpacked quite a bit through southern and central Colorado, as well as here in Washington state, and I was looking to go somewhere different. I think he will do fine with some extensive hiking, but I am thinking it might be best to make a base camp, and just go on some day hikes from there. Rather than get a couple of days into the backcountry only for his back to start giving him trouble, or something of that nature.

I have never been to a national park, and see that I am about a days drive (~9 Hours) from Glacier. I am looking for some info on good places to camp or stay to be in good location to some good day hikes. Ill have my truck with me (4 wheel drive) so I wouldnt be hesitant to access any of the more remote campsites down dirt or gravel roads.

How is the weather there in September? Which side or area of the park would you recommend? Any must see/do things?

Thanks for any info, recs, or trip reports you might share.

Also, he'd be coming from Houston, where is the best place to fly into, assuming those coming from Texas came by air?

Last thing, in addition to hiking, I would like to do some fishing. Is fishing pretty abundant around the park, or are some areas better than others?

paging Vero143...

Take bear spray. Grizzlies love that stuff. In 2005 we were going to hike up to Grinnell Glacier, but the trail was closed due to a Grizz almost killing a man and his grown daughter.

He had spray but the rescuers found it dented and bloody, but he did not have time to use it.

Personally, I like the east side, and far northwest area. Granted, my main interest in Glacier is bears. I do highly recommend the bear spray.---And yes, when not applied to a mucous membrane they do actually love the stuff. It does actually work really well. Oh and don't wear the dang bells, have a good time and chat with your dad.

Second, I would highly recommend taking anything vero may say to heart.

Edited to comment on buzzard's comment---
Here is an article on the incident. There's quite bit I could comment on, but it's 1:45 in the morning. But bear/human interaction is sort of my passion and I had to play a bit
http://www.backpacker.com/survival_guide_skills_survival_story_surviving_grizzly_attack_glacier_national_park/skills/12227?page=1

This particular comment initially caught my attention.
"Later I learned that Jenna had seen the bear spray on the trail and picked it up. She didn't know she had to release the safety lever before she sprayed. While she was looking at it–we're talking just one or two seconds–the bear started running at her."

I do like the attitude he had at the end of the article. Oh, and sorry about the annoying advertisement in the article.




[This message has been edited by ursusguy (edited 4/15/2009 1:59a).]

I have not hiked Glacier extensively, but I did make the Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel trip. We were not backpacking, so we just went out and back, but it was spectacular and something unique.

There is also a trail from the summit, along the Garden Wall, that looks spectacular. I have not hiked it, but you can see it from the visitors center. We watched a pair of mountain goats have an encounter with hikers. The goats were taking the trail, and the hikers saw them and stepped aside and let the goats have the ROW.

There are really good day hikes in the Many Glacier area and Two Medicine area and the St Mary's area. Get the Falcon guide for hiking in Glacier and also check out the nps website.
favorite day hikes in Many Glacier area - Grinnell Glacier,Ptarmigan Tunnel, Swift Current Pass. Favorite in St Mary's area Siyeh Pass. Logan Pass area - Highline Trail( lots of mountain goats and big horn sheep)Two Medicine - any of the pass hikes.

I appreciate the advice, from everyone.

I still am planning on doing some more research as into where we'd like to camp, and what parts of the park we want to visit. These hike recommendations are a great help.

Unfortunately, this wont be a long trip, probably on 3-5 days, as both of us are being constrained by work, but we are making an effort to spend some time together. Which side of the park/area would you recommend staying in? Many glaciers? St. Marys?

I would assume with only spending a few days there it would be best not to be driving all around the thing. Im looking for a place that has a good combination of fishing, scenery, moderate hikes, and I dont want to get eaten by a hungry bear. Ha. Although Id love to see one. From a distance.

We drove the Going to the Sun Road and the scenery was absolutely breathtaking. We saw lots of wildlife, including a black bear that sauntered across the road in front of us, causing a big traffic jam. It takes about half a morning, but it is well worth it. They even have old fashioned buses to take from end to end if you are so inclined. There are lots of ways to enjoy Glacier even if you aren't interested in lots of hiking. That's what makes it so special.

If it were me (shooting for your 5 day option). I would fly into Kalispell and rent a car there. Drive up and visit the Polebridge area, and stay at either Kintla (personal favorite) or Bowman Lake the first night. Early the next morning head back to the south following the Camas Road. Check out the Lake McDonald area (still somewhat early) and take a hike up to Avalanche Lake (optional, but pretty nice-a lot of people). Then take you good sweet time on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Check out some of the hikes around Logan Pass. Make it into the Many Glacier area by early evening. In September you stand a pretty decent shot of seeing grizzlies literally from the Many Glacier parking lot. There are lots of great hikes all around the Many Glacier area.

After a couple day at Many Glacier, I would move south for a day or two at Two Medicine (maybe Cut Bank to get away from people).

Once you go to Glacier it becomes very addictive. Keep in mind, my main interest in going to Glacier is finding grizzlies.

I agree that it is very addicting. Reading this thread is really making me want to go back soon. There are some great suggestions on this thread and also the National Park thread.

I dont have too much to add. Everyone hit the nail on the head pretty much. Few comments:

I agree with these:

-Personally, I like the east side, and far northwest area. (For me specifically, it would be the Two Medicine Area)
-I do highly recommend the bear spray (Especially on trails that are not travelled by lots of people daily)
-There are really good day hikes in the Many Glacier area and Two Medicine area and the St Mary's area. Get the Falcon guide for hiking in Glacier and also check out the nps website. (Check the nps site for trail closures BEFORE you go and also trail updates)
-Grinnell Glacier,Ptarmigan Tunnel, Swift Current Pass. (Sound advice. Those would be great hikes in your timeframe. It will give you a very good sense of the park and some of the best scenery and chances at wildlife.)


2 days at Kintla, a day of driving around and 2 days at Many Glacier (or Two Med, just not both) would be my agenda. I highly suggest doing 2 days on the East and 2 on the West with a break in the middle to give you a real sense of the park. You can stay at the Red Eagle Motel in St. Mary for around 90 dollars, I think, and then make your way to Many. Spend a few hours at Logan Pass and you could even get a quick hike up to Preston park for a few cool views and cool flora if you are into that. Bird watching is popular up there too.

The thing about Glacier is that you should really take in what is at a few spots, rather than cramming a bunch in a short trip. Just my opinion, but I hate being rushed especially when I am on vacation. The park is huge and you cant see it all. I worked as a backcountry ranger for 3 years there and I saw maybe 1/3 of it. Glacier holds a very special place in my heart. It is my absolute favorite place in the world, and I have over 40 countries scratched off my bucket list if that gives you a sense of the beauty and meaning, to me at least.

I am not real accesible right now, so I cant go into great detail, but ursus and SA are pros at that place. I will check back in a few days when I can.

[This message has been edited by Vero143 (edited 4/15/2009 4:34p).]

Your dad should fly into Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) in Kalispell, MT

Typically Northwest and Delta offer flights that stop in Salt Lake City and/or Minneapolis. Can be kinda pricey...

If you're coming from western Washington, an idea would be for him to fly into Spokane and for you to pick him up on your way through. This is a much cheaper option and would allow you 2 some bonding time on the drive over (not to mention he'd be able to take in the beautiful scenery through ID and the passes)

My $0.02...

[This message has been edited by WolfMan (edited 4/15/2009 9:14p).]

Thanks for the info again. Im getting pretty excited just from reading this.

I cant go until after August, I noticed that Labor Day was on the 7th of September this year. How are the crowds for Labor Day? How late in the year are the roads and trails open? Through September?

I will probably take your advice on the itinerary, Vero. The research I am pulling up on those two areas look amazing. Thanks again.

If you or your dad are going to fly, I highly suggest booking soon. Tickets go way way up after Memorial Day. We booked ours about a month ago and the price has gone up 150 dollars a ticket so far....

Im driving, I want to stop by and visit a friend in Spokane, but he is going to fly as soon as we can finalize a date.

You think we will still have no problems finding campsites and getting around on Labor Day weekend?

I always left before then, so I cannot recall how busy it is. I bet SA knows. I would guess it is still hopping pretty good though. Call now and reserve spots or hotel rooms. The longer you wait, the more likely you wont get a spot. If you stay in St Mary, I would not wait a minute longer than you have to in booking something. Lodging out there is short supply.

[This message has been edited by Vero143 (edited 4/16/2009 5:30p).]

I think Karley had a friend at DU that went backpacking in Glacier NP all the time.

who are you oldarmy?

youandwhosearmy, back in 2002, I drove up to Glacier over the Labor Day weekend. This was not by design, my mind was elsewhere and didn't realize it until the day before I got there (it was a long summer, there was a female involved). Up at Kintla, we had our choice of campsites at 3 pm, by 6 pm all sites were taken. Around Lake McDonald (Apgar) everything was full. I piddled around doing the Going-to-the-Sun Road, and we didn't make it to Many Glacier until about 4 pm. We got the last campsite.

There were a lot of people, but if you are halfway decent shape, you can get away from the crowds pretty decent.

quote:

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I piddled around

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IE looking for bears when I should have been looking for a place to sleep!

Very close. Actually my affinity for bear attack sites kicked in. My friend and I hiked up from the Loop trailhead up to the Granite Park Chalet.

We stayed at Prince of Wales Hotel overlooking the lake at the US/Canada border. Not exactly roughing it, but it was spectacular.

http://www.texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=1225062&forum_id=54

Here is a link to thread with other links and a few stories of trips to glacier.