Regarding the throttle return spring, check that you transfered all the brackets from the old carb to the new carb. It is hard to see everything in the photos, but this part in the old pictures looks like a bracket that the spring connected to.

Burdizzo said:

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Congratulations. You have just done a minor upgrade which is replacing the manual choke with an electric hot air choke. Therefore, you no longer have to hook the cable pull up to it because there is nowhere to hook it up. What you need to do now is find a 12v circuit that it hot only when the key is on and connect that to the terminal on the round, black, thing on the side of the carburetor. It is probably that bronze thing on the bottom that is partially obscured in one of the photos.

As an interim step you could write it directly to the battery while trying to get this old motor running. Just remember to disconnect while the engine is not running. Very temporary measure. Don't leave it like that permanently.

Forget all that stuff about electric choke. This carb actually looks like a hot air choke which draws hot air across the exhaust manifold to operate the choke, and your manifold is probably not set up for that. Not to worry, you can address that later. For now, just use a piece of wire to hold the choke open to start it, and you should be able to convert to an electric choke later.

Also, block off any unconnected vacuum lines. It will make tuning much easier. At this juncture in your journey the only one you should really care about should run from just under the carb over to the distributor.

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OK... I see your edits now, so this may not apply. But going on the theory that it is an electric choke, would this be the wire that powers it?

Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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Here you go. It just says "automatic choke." A couple of the reviews mention an electric choke, FWIW.

Amazon Link

Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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If it helps, this is what that wire was connected to on the old carb.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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Here you go. It just says "automatic choke." A couple of the reviews mention an electric choke, FWIW.

Amazon Link

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It is hidden from view in your photos, but here is where you hook up the electric choke.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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If it helps, this is what that wire was connected to on the old carb.

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THat looks like a high idle solenoid. When the engine is cold, it makes the engine idle a little faster by opening the throttle slightly. Once the engine gets warm, it retracts so the engine runs at a normal idle speed. I don't think you want to use that to run the electric choke.

Burdizzo said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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If it helps, this is what that wire was connected to on the old carb.

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THat looks like a high idle solenoid. When the engine is cold, it makes the engine idle a little faster by opening the throttle slightly. Once the engine gets warm, it retracts so the engine runs at a normal idle speed. I don't think you want to use that to run the electric choke.

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Hmmmm.... Do I still need that?

Eventually, you will need it, so don't throw it away. You won't need it to get it up and running, though. Don't get too deep in the weeds with this detail. Stay focused on getting it to fire off and idling for now, and you can worry about that solenoid afterward

If you're pulling fuel from the tank on the truck, be prepared for that fuel filter that came with the carb to plug up in short order.




Buy a handful of these and have them on hand. You may want to put one inline now anyway.

Inline Fuel Filter

Burdizzo said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Hard to tell from the photo, but it might be. Use a volt meter to see if it hisot/not hot when the key is on or off. Based on what you showed previously this engine probably did not have an electric choke, but maybe you can use that to power it on the new carb.

Do you have a link to the carb you bought?

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If it helps, this is what that wire was connected to on the old carb.

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THat looks like a high idle solenoid. When the engine is cold, it makes the engine idle a little faster by opening the throttle slightly. Once the engine gets warm, it retracts so the engine runs at a normal idle speed. I don't think you want to use that to run the electric choke.

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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/784588-fast-idle-solenoid.html

This forum post describes an idle stop, so maybe the wire to it might actually work for the electric choke. Images look similar to what op posted.