Here's a Sunday evening update for those keeping score at home. Valair Dual Disc clutch is on. 102 ft-lbs on the flywheel - shout out to MrsCP for holding a pry bar since I couldn't find the indexing tool I bought special for this. Never even opened the box... whole box is hiding somewhere; I'm sure I'll find it tomorrow LOL. That's a lot of clamping power.
Worked late last night in the shop listening to Schemanda podcast and got most all of the wiring harness attached. It was something I've dreaded because the engine was so pretty and clean. The harness is like throwing a nasty blanket over it, but I won't regret it when I turn the dial up to 11 and leave all the mechanicals in a cloud of smoke, right?
I can not stress enough how much I have benefited from taking UMPTEEN pictures during the disassembly. I took a lot of pictures from all angles and of nothing in particular. It's been a huge help having those pics for lots of reasons, but it paid off bigly wire routing.
I need to call my turbo kit manufacturer and ask what sort of codes I'm going to get since I now have a manual waste gate and the waste gate actuator sensor is no longer on the truck. Does anyone have experience with this? That and the fuel heater seem to be the only things I've abandoned in current configuration.
I also spent some time in the engine compartment, good thing that podcast is really long, and put new wiring loom around the firewall harness. I drilled some strategically located 1/4" holes under the cowl and used Dorman push retainers to get all the firewall insulation pad back up and un-saggy over the engine. I was happy with my effort and want to spend some time on the battery cables & grounds later.
Before I go much further I need to solve a glaring issue on the rear frame. Namely, the front attachment points for the bed. This picture is from the Cummins forum and it's a guy in Texas working on an almost identical truck. You can see the stanchions in the front bed area that the truck bed sat on. There are 4 of them and they are made of pressed steel and welded to the bed. They come up and provide an attachment point level with the rear frame 'step'.
Old pic, but here you can see that the previous owner dehorned my stanchions and cut them down. They no longer come to the correct height to set the flatbed on them.
My first inclination was to get some 4"x4" square tubing and span across the what's left, making it all match the right height of course, so the bed could set on that. Well, after studying some pictures today of a truck with the fuel tank in it (tank removed from both above) I can see that won't work because the tank actually rides pretty high in there. My lurking buddy, RC, offered a donor truck's stanchions but the originals are rather light and I'm concerned the process of grafting them onto my truck won't make them any sturdier. So, currently, I'm inclined to go to his donor, take careful measurements, then use some heavier metal to fabricate some of my own. I' believe I can build some commiserate with the load of the flatbed and forces associated with it.
I want to do this before I get too far because I don't want to cut and weld over my plastic tank. Previous owner already did that and thankfully it survived. So I can engineer this, get the tank and AirDog on, then the engine in. That's the order I want to go. I'm not as worried about mounting the bed - I just want it to be ready to accept it before I proceed much longer.
Worked late last night in the shop listening to Schemanda podcast and got most all of the wiring harness attached. It was something I've dreaded because the engine was so pretty and clean. The harness is like throwing a nasty blanket over it, but I won't regret it when I turn the dial up to 11 and leave all the mechanicals in a cloud of smoke, right?
I can not stress enough how much I have benefited from taking UMPTEEN pictures during the disassembly. I took a lot of pictures from all angles and of nothing in particular. It's been a huge help having those pics for lots of reasons, but it paid off bigly wire routing.
I need to call my turbo kit manufacturer and ask what sort of codes I'm going to get since I now have a manual waste gate and the waste gate actuator sensor is no longer on the truck. Does anyone have experience with this? That and the fuel heater seem to be the only things I've abandoned in current configuration.
I also spent some time in the engine compartment, good thing that podcast is really long, and put new wiring loom around the firewall harness. I drilled some strategically located 1/4" holes under the cowl and used Dorman push retainers to get all the firewall insulation pad back up and un-saggy over the engine. I was happy with my effort and want to spend some time on the battery cables & grounds later.
Before I go much further I need to solve a glaring issue on the rear frame. Namely, the front attachment points for the bed. This picture is from the Cummins forum and it's a guy in Texas working on an almost identical truck. You can see the stanchions in the front bed area that the truck bed sat on. There are 4 of them and they are made of pressed steel and welded to the bed. They come up and provide an attachment point level with the rear frame 'step'.
Old pic, but here you can see that the previous owner dehorned my stanchions and cut them down. They no longer come to the correct height to set the flatbed on them.
My first inclination was to get some 4"x4" square tubing and span across the what's left, making it all match the right height of course, so the bed could set on that. Well, after studying some pictures today of a truck with the fuel tank in it (tank removed from both above) I can see that won't work because the tank actually rides pretty high in there. My lurking buddy, RC, offered a donor truck's stanchions but the originals are rather light and I'm concerned the process of grafting them onto my truck won't make them any sturdier. So, currently, I'm inclined to go to his donor, take careful measurements, then use some heavier metal to fabricate some of my own. I' believe I can build some commiserate with the load of the flatbed and forces associated with it.
I want to do this before I get too far because I don't want to cut and weld over my plastic tank. Previous owner already did that and thankfully it survived. So I can engineer this, get the tank and AirDog on, then the engine in. That's the order I want to go. I'm not as worried about mounting the bed - I just want it to be ready to accept it before I proceed much longer.