Well hopefully that saved you some frustration (in exchange for the money I've likely encouraged you to spend!)

Centerpole90 said:

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I had been told the engine would be black, but I guess the upgraded head studs and stuff deemed it 'performance' and they painted it Cummins Apex Red like the ISX. I ain't mad about it; I'll just lean into it.

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CP you are the man. Even your welds on your worm gear engine stand is so clean. Oh man it's really gonna be a great truck. Odds are you already have your next project picked out

Centerpole90 said:

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I am playing project creep at expert level.

This is practically unrecognizable from what I said I wanted to do when I bought the truck. I don't know exactly where I got off the rails, but I'm pretty sure it's about the time I sat down in front of Texags and hit the "Post" button.

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I feel your pain. My LS swap turned into 3 LS swaps with none of them drivable at the moment.

Centerpole90 said:

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After this, I want to make some adjustments to my C 10

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Blower

Centerpole90 said:

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and work on some antique John Deere tractors for a while.

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Is the thread going to be here or over on the outdoors board?

I don't think there is anything interesting enough in a 2 cylinder tractor to warrant that! You would have enjoyed the engine rebuild of my Rumely Oil Pull model H a while back though. Now that I've taken more interest in machining I consider that someday I'd like to do a full re-fit and tighten everything on that tractor up. Everything has to be made for it, there aren't any Advance-Rumely dealerships that stock parts. But I don't want to take on anything big or expensive after I finish this.

The Rumley would be a neat project. Thats definitely not a quick and easy project.

No antique tractor project is boring. you never know what you will find when you tear into one.

My 8 year old son inherited two D's, a '23 and a '28. Dad had the 23 running, but couldn't get the 28 to go. The carburetor is rebuilt and it seems to have spark. I suspect there is a timing issue, be it spark or valves. I' m going to have to make room and haul it up here. The '40 B would like a stable mate.

'23 D is pretty cool. Any chance it's a spoker? I don't recall when they switched to solid flywheel

By year I think it should be, but IIRC we've asked before and I think it's been replaced. There were, what, about 5,800 spokers? I believe less than 1000 were the 26" flywheel and the balance had 24" flywheels. My dad hauled a neighbors spoker to the 2 Cylinder Expo for him the year Ds were the feature tractor. For his trouble he gave dad the toy tractor for that year. I don't know if they still have that event - I think the 'correct police' killed the vibe, honestly.

I wonder if Deere had an improvement program for replacing then like they did the low radiator G's or the Open fan shaft A's.

When this project is over and I have room in the shop I'll either work on an unstyled D or early GP. All I can say about this Cummins project is I haven't maxed my Farm Plan out yet because Deere don't sell Cummins parts. LOL.

CanyonAg77 said:

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'23 D is pretty cool. Any chance it's a spoker? I don't recall when they switched to solid flywheel

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The spokers were made in the very early years of production. Many were retrofitted to the regular flywheel under the update campaign to resolve the flywheel cracking issue. This one has been updated.

Centerpole90 said:

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I am playing project creep at expert level.

This is practically unrecognizable from what I said I wanted to do when I bought the truck. I don't know exactly where I got off the rails, but I'm pretty sure it's about the time I sat down in front of Texags and hit the "Post" button.

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I remember the "I just want a single cab skirted flatbed with a dependable engine rebuild whose sole purpose is to tow a gooseneck carrying my FJ40."

I did say that, and still hoping to accomplish those goals. Maybe I can do all that… and blow the tires off in 4 or 5 gears! I spent last night drooling over suspension parts. I don't even recognize myself anymore.

Progress made:

I put the wear sleeve on the crank yesterday. I also installed the front seal in the the timing cover but held up on putting the timing cover on until I figure out where a couple special bolts go that hold wiring harness.

I bought a screwdriver type torque wrench Saturday and put the wiring on all the injectors; 11 inch pounds ain't much. I need to torque injector lines, but I have to remember to bring my crowfoot set home with me.

Parts to get when I remember - block heater, thermostats, fan belt. When able I should head to the salvage yard for: full set of pilot wheel lug nuts like stock, valve cover breather line, and the rubber grommets that go in the wiper cowl right above the engine.

Also - it is my understanding from friends and the cummins forum that 255/85/r17 are the biggest tires that you can fit without a spacer. Nitto Ridge Grappler and Coopers are the two most popular. The Toyo is 0.4-.5" taller at 33.5" diameter. The Coopers that I had on my FJ40 when I bought it never measured out as big advertised so I'm a little skeptical about their size. I want some good size tires - not the 235 factory size and not the yee yee 35s on it now - but in between. Anyone have a strong suggestion here?? Toyo Open Country?

I've had the best luck with RT's out of any tires I've run. They wear well, aren't loud, and great traction.

Yall are cutting milo and we are getting it planted.

I found the R/T to be quite squirrelly while towing around 10k. BFG's on the other hand feel solid.

Okay thread faithful, I owe you an update, but I'd like to solicit your opinion first about a worry that I have. I know I'm long winded, but I will state my case and then ya'll tell me how you would proceed.

The subject truck is 2006, as was the 5.9 that came out of it. However, I surrendered that block as a core for the long block I am building back now. When I ordered the engine built they took all the particulars and proceeded to build me a 5.9 common rail. Great!

So I am happily working away and the engine is getting real close to going back in the truck. The wiring harness and clutch are the only big ticket items left to be installed. As I was working last week I read a thread on the Cummins forum about a horror story from someone who had an oil cooler gasket failure and intermittent oil pressure issues; other posters added with tales of mismatched oil cooler components and gaskets... which got my gears turning....

I ordered and installed a 2006 5.9 Common Rail oil cooler with gaskets. I called Thoroughbred Diesel last week and compared and confirmed AGAIN that I indeed have the right oil cooler. I also installed a new oil filter housing and on that same call went over each part number with the rep confirming - these are compatible parts for my engine. Yes, all good by every account, BUT, I don't have my old oil cooler because I dropped it in the trash back in May. I did look and confirm when I assembled it that the oil passages appeared to line up and to my untrained eye it looks like everything was as it should be. I still have the old housing, but not the cooler or gaskets so I can no longer compare them side by side.

OCD just walked right into my shop and made itself at home.

Out of an abundance of caution, today, I called the engine shop and asked them if I should have checked my block, were there any differences in the blocks that would cause me to have mismatched parts? They replied no, that I am golden. I explained my concern and they assured me, all good; but if I want to be sure, I can spin my engine before I put the injectors in to make sure it puts up pressure.

Well, I've already installed the injectors, and the injector harness, and everything above that; and while that's easy enough to undo - I have installed the connector tubes too. In theory, those new connectors are crushed to seat and by the book I should put in new ones. Also, I have my CP3 in and If I spin the engine I'd probably need to take it out because without fuel... it's turning un-lubricated. These are a lot of steps back and a huge pain in the azz.

Here is the driver's side of my block. The sensor is the factory oil pressure sensor which actually just a Murphy switch apparently, but the brass fitting is my an adapter I installed to put a second oil pressure sensor for my Edge CTS3. I plan to put a manual hand gauge there for initial start up.



I am prone to hear hoofbeats and think it's giraffes; it's a character flaw. I have no reason to think I have the wrong stuff - I just know the consequences of one of those gaskets being for the wrong block. I think I have let the potential consequences and message forum horror stories dictate my level of concern over something I didn't give a lot of thought to until last week.

In light of that - Do you think:

A. What were you thinking? Disassemble the whole thing and start over.
B. Pull the oil cooler and look hold it in your hand even if you don't have the old one to compare it to.
C. You did your due diligence and addressed the concern - proceed cautiously with startup.
D. F it. Run it.
E. You bought this turd why are you bothering us with it.

Refresh my memory. What was your turbo decision?

I'ma strong vote for D. I've also never built a motor.

Oh I forgot to answer C in my post above

GentrysMillTX10 said:

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Refresh my memory. What was your turbo decision?

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I think I've convinced him to put a blower on everything

That's exactly why I asked…. And you can't blame me for that decision!

I tried this once in 2007. I hope your results are better than mine!

What are you doing for electronics? Bullydog, smarty, or ? My apologies if you've already answered that somewhere….

GentrysMillTX10 said:

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What are you doing for electronics? Bullydog, smarty, or ? My apologies if you've already answered that somewhere….

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I haven't. It is probably going to be EFI Live. I have already bought an Edge CTS3 engine monitor - so using that kind of precludes Smarty since it has it's own screen... EFI Live seem to be the next most popular choice down the list.

ETA, this guy seems to be popular on the Cummins Forum. I'm open to other suggestions, but the switch on the fly 5 positions of EFI Live does appeal to me. https://www.5-9diesel.com/product/efi-5/