Anyone ever heard of Coleman as an HVAC brand? Apparently owned by Johnson Controls?

Having to replace a system with ductwork and dying a bit at the bill.

How old is the ductwork?

Units are expensive as all hell right now. No argument there, but the ductwork must be extremely jacked up to replace that

Best guess would be 10-15 years. Not sure. There's mold and we just realized it. Not really wanting to **** around with that.

Coleman has been making Air conditioning for travel trailers, RV, and window units for decades.

Unless you have the mold tested and it is some poisonous strain - what's the issue, outside of discovering why you have mold to begin with?

I bet getting your duct cleaned and sanitized is a lot cheaper than replacing duct work. Find the reason you have mold, clean, seal and move on.

Coleman are good units. They are relative easier to get these days because most of the bigger supply houses keep them in stock. If we are replacing units at a customers house this is what we are buying these days.

My neighbors have a unit next to my driveway. Makes me laugh everytime I go outside. I had no idea they made these and I just think of their camping equipment.

I have nothing to add, still think it's crazy. Unrelated but my sister's AC unit just failed yesterday. Under home warranty but I told her to find out what's broken and get ready to replace it as whatever patch they use to fix it will fail soon.

schmellba99 said:

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Unless you have the mold tested and it is some poisonous strain - what's the issue, outside of discovering why you have mold to begin with?

I bet getting your duct cleaned and sanitized is a lot cheaper than replacing duct work. Find the reason you have mold, clean, seal and move on.

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I don't know. I had to replace all of mine and the grille boots and everything. Much better piece of mind for me and the wife knowing everything was clean and new.

I just installed a replacement coleman mack rooftop on RV in the last 3 days. It was easy and is working great.

Yeah I'm a bit concerned about the mold spreading. In 5 years we've never seen anything and in the last couple of weeks it's pretty well established and coming out. Something changed recently and I'm not sure what.

There's a crawlspace with no dehumidifier. Always been that way, but it's clear to me that the old unit is not pulling enough moisture out to work without one right now. The bill I was quoted for all the work is hard to swallow and I'm trying to find if and where the scam is.

I appreciate the comments.

Another question if any of you can help. If 1 ton is supposed to be 12000 btuh, how does a 3 ton machine have 60000 btuh output?

I have a Coleman unit and the compressor went out after like 3 years. The repair guy had some difficulty with replacing even though it was under warranty. Left us without ac for a week in July. My system is all hodge podged thanks to the previous owner. It's gunna hurt the wallet but can't wait to replace everything.

cisgenderedAggie said:

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Yeah I'm a bit concerned about the mold spreading. In 5 years we've never seen anything and in the last couple of weeks it's pretty well established and coming out. Something changed recently and I'm not sure what.

There's a crawlspace with no dehumidifier. Always been that way, but it's clear to me that the old unit is not pulling enough moisture out to work without one right now. The bill I was quoted for all the work is hard to swallow and I'm trying to find if and where the scam is.

I appreciate the comments.

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Is the condensate drain clogged and allowing water to sit in the drain pan? That will cause mold problems.

cisgenderedAggie said:

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Another question if any of you can help. If 1 ton is supposed to be 12000 btuh, how does a 3 ton machine have 60000 btuh output?

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it doesn't.

Not anymore. They're replacing it now and I'm feeling like I deserve monkeypox for this.

agracer said:

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cisgenderedAggie said:

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Another question if any of you can help. If 1 ton is supposed to be 12000 btuh, how does a 3 ton machine have 60000 btuh output?

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it doesn't.

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How do I interpret this label from the new unit of a claimed 3 ton machine.



Just trying to make sure I'm not undersized now. Old unit had input 96,000 and output 77,500.

I'm trying to remember how home HVAC is rated but I believe that is a 75,000 BTU machine (6.25T)? Or maybe it's based on the output so 5 Tons? The input is how much energy goes into the unit and the output is well, the output. So the unit is 80% efficient.

Don't know why the new unit is smaller.

Did your old system turn on and off frequently? Did you house feel "humid" at times or the thermostat says it's at the right temp but it does not feel cold?

If your old unit was to big it will actually cool the house to fast and shut off, then the house heats up fast and it will turn on again, then off, on, etc and it actually makes the humidity to high.

A properly sized unit will cool the house down at a nice steady rate and run a good long while and this will remove humidity from the air better then a unit just shutting in/off all the time.

Apparently I'm screwed in the head from growing up in the swamp and don't notice 60-70% humidity as uncomfortable or unusual, so don't know.

I have a crawlspace and apparently there's no dehumidifier there, despite it being sealed and encapsulated. I'm wondering if the builder had sized the HVAC to be conditioning that area as well, but there weren't too many returns down there, just 1 that I'm aware of. Something was working because there is no mold in the crawlspace. The temperature is similar to the house, and apparently the humidity too.

I'm putting in a dehumidifier, so if that's what was going on I think I'll be ok. Just suddenly got concerned that it may be undersized.

The A/C tonnage will show up in the model #. PCG4 is type (package), 36 is 36000 BTU (or 3 ton). The 60000 output is most likely the heating output.

Got it. Thank you! So the old trane unit, with model # 2ycc3036a is also a 36000 btu cooling unit, correct? So same tonnage but maybe less heating output.

Don't know what the hell was going on in the crawlspace then and why it has no mold.

Aggie65 said:

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The A/C tonnage will show up in the model #. PCG4 is type (package), 36 is 36000 BTU (or 3 ton). The 60000 output is most likely the heating output.

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Yep, find the model number and find the number that is a divisible by 12.

Aggie65 said:

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The A/C tonnage will show up in the model #. PCG4 is type (package), 36 is 36000 BTU (or 3 ton). The 60000 output is most likely the heating output.

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. Yea, my brains was in neutral…the numbers I posted are heating…

Just a PSA for those who are looking at replacing entire systems before the end of the year:

Quote:

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The HVACR industry is on the cusp of yet another refrigerant phasedown. R-410A is scheduled for elimination from all new systems in 2023. Many HVACR contractors are not prepared for the change, and there are many questions.

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So, if you buy a R-410A system, know that while refrigerant will still be available for it, you'll already be technically 'obsolete', which might impact those who plan to sell their homes in the immediate future and the new buyer wants the 'latest and greatest', even though you just spent a king's ransom on a new R-410A system.

The two leading replacement refrigerants are R-32 and R-454B. Some manufacturers prefer the former, and some prefer the latter. It should be fun. Both are classified as being 'mildly flammable'.

Why the phaseout, you ask? Well, even though R-410A doesn't harm the ozone as R-22 does, its GWP (global warming potential) is deemed to be too high (it's actually higher than R-22).

Fan-freakin-tastic