In austin and have been (trying to) following the randy Lemmon lawn schedule using nitro phos fertilizers and barricade pre-emergent on my Bermuda lawn.

Randy's schedule has three per-emergent applications a year. Is it best to just split the max 5.94lb/ft2 up evenly into 2lb/ft2 increments? Or should I be staggering it more by season.

I'm still fairly new at this so wanting to make sure I don't nuke my yard.

Barricade is pendimethalin?

Should only have activity on seeds germinating in the soil.

Yes. The preemergent. I know it won't kill grown weeds. I'm trying to prevent summer weeds from germinating.

Just don't want to nuke my grass by putting too much down

I do it 3 times a year. November, March and June for the whole yard.

What product are y'all using for pre-emergent? I'm going to start following a more rigorous schedule and I wish Randy lemon would suggest products rather than active ingredients ( Dumb it down for me)

Dimension works very well too.

I thought this thread was going to be about vietnamese soup...

MosesHallRAB04 said:

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Yes. The preemergent. I know it won't kill grown weeds. I'm trying to prevent summer weeds from germinating.

Just don't want to nuke my grass by putting too much down

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If it only kills seeds it won't touch your grass. Hit with a high rate then change modes of action if you want. All it will really change is the longevity of the residual.

Bottlerocket said:

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What product are y'all using for pre-emergent? I'm going to start following a more rigorous schedule and I wish Randy lemon would suggest products rather than active ingredients ( Dumb it down for me)

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Barricade. Manufacturer is Nitro Phos

Do it in three applications.

Big fan of this product and use it three times a year...I highly recommend it!

If I laid it on too thick the 1st application should I not do the normal 3?

I didn't realize I had to split it up through the year and laid it all on like a doofus. When I finished I realized what I did.

fightingfarmer09 said:

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Barricade is pendimethalin?

Should only have activity on seeds germinating in the soil.

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Barricade is not pendimethalin.
Barricade is prodiamine. It is a DNA with a longer residual.

MosesHallRAB04 said:

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If I laid it on too thick the 1st application should I not do the normal 3?

I didn't realize I had to split it up through the year and laid it all on like a doofus. When I finished I realized what I did.

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Looking at the Nitro Phos label - Barricade is made by Syngenta and impregnated on many fertilizers, in this case Nitro Phos - the minimum application rate is 4# of product/1000 sq ft. This equates pretty closely to 1# Active Ingredient(Barricade/prodiamine) per acre.

Two points here:
1. If you use 2# of product/1000 3x/year, you will not be happy with the results. .5#AI/Acre will not last you 4 months and you will get weed break-through.
2. If you just made an application at 6#product/1000 sq ft you may see a little bit of root stunting/pruning.
However, you should get a solid 5 months of pre-emergent control. You could make another application around mid-September even though you would be exceeding the labeled rate for usage.

A few notes about Prodiamine/Barricade:
- It is a pretty good preemergent for preventing crabgrass. If you are in Houston it probably needs to be applied around the first of February.
- It is not great for preventing large seeded broadleaf weeds like thistle or anything with a large tap-root.
- It is "better than nothing" for preventing goosegrass, but not real good at it.
- Poa annua is showing a lot of resistance to it and it is becoming less and less effective against it.

In Houston I would probably put out Barricade in late January or the first of February - using that Nitro Phos product I would put down 4# product/1000 sq ft. I would come back in Mid May with a fertilizer impregnated with Dimension (dithiopyr). September 1st I would look for the Bio Advance 3-in-1 product that contains Specticle(indaziflam).
Dimension on fertilizer is not easy to find for homeowners so you could substitute another application of 3-in-1 in May.
It is hard to make a perfect schedule for everyone to follow due to weather. Crabgrass germinates when soil temps hit 55 so you have to have something down before that to prevent it. Goosegrass doesn't germinate until around 65 degree soil temps. I think Poa annua germination is more influenced by day length and moisture as well as soil temps, but in Houston you are probably good getting something down by Sept 1. Broadleafs are all over the map and solid turf does more for preventing them than most herbicides.

munch74 said:

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I do it 3 times a year. November, March and June for the whole yard.

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What brand/form do you use?

I have a question on preemergents. I assume they work on all seeds? Wildflowers, bluebonnets, etc.

We have a 3 acre lot that we are just starting to developed for our homesite and it has a lot of wildflowers on it. I'm assuming I'm going to have to spot or foliar spray the weeds after the flowers are done to control the weeds.

toolshed said:

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I have a question on preemergents. I assume they work on all seeds? Wildflowers, bluebonnets, etc.

We have a 3 acre lot that we are just starting to developed for our homesite and it has a lot of wildflowers on it. I'm assuming I'm going to have to spot or foliar spray the weeds after the flowers are done to control the weeds.

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Preemergents work in at least a couple different ways:
- some create a layer an inch or less below the soil surface and when weeds or grass or whatever try to grow through it, they absorb the preemergent and are killed - these are foliar absorbed
- some are root absorbed

If you want to keep the wildflowers, your best bet is to spot spray weeds after the wildflowers are up.

The small bag says good for 5k sq ft, so I use 1.5 bags on my 7k-ish yard. 3x per year. That's the extent of my math - haven't actually read the label details....

What are yall paying for your bag of Nitro Phos Baricade? Seems like prices vary a great deal.