Chetos, what year is your Airstream? Thoughts and prayers for your bank account for that renovation! The number of tools one needs to complete a renovation like that is shocking!

OOOPS! Sorry!

Damn thread derails.

2nd weekend of demo started about as well as expected. And by that I mean nothing went according to plan. I wanted to take the cabinets out in one piece to send to a cabinet shop to rebuild the same way but they are pretty rotten/flimsy. Kept them together as best I could but the next time they leave my garage they will be going in the trash. Main thing I needed intact was the cabinet sides so I can trace the curve and I got those.

Stove/oven removed.



Fridge and doors removed.



Sink and overheads out. I did manage to get the overhead cabinets out in one piece so I can take those to a cabinet shop for an exact rebuild.



So there was a lot of conflicting information online but it turns out my shell was built on top of the floor so I have to support the shell while I remove the floor. Planning to go back with treated 2x4s around the edge to support the shell and then 2 sheets of marine grade 3/4 plywood for the rest of the floor. Then whatever top floor my wife decides, hopefully engineered hardwood. The thing that stinks is I wanted to remove the entire floor, then POR15 the whole frame, then put the floor back. Now I'll be doing it in sections which will add time. Oh well.

Picture showing the shell with temporary support to the frame. The holes in the outer shell are by the battery box, not noticeable from outside.

marcel ledbetter said:

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Don't use treated lumber in your trailer. The chemicals used to treat the wood are corrosive to aluminum. I hope you're wearing a good respirator. Keep the posts coming!

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Thanks for the heads' up. What do you recommend? Hope to pass this trailer to my grandkids so don't want to cut corners on anything.

coolerguy12 said:

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marcel ledbetter said:

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Don't use treated lumber in your trailer. The chemicals used to treat the wood are corrosive to aluminum. I hope you're wearing a good respirator. Keep the posts coming!

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Thanks for the heads' up. What do you recommend? Hope to pass this trailer to my grandkids so don't want to cut corners on anything.

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The layering should be such that the aluminum doesn't come in contact with the treated wood. But be sure to use the coated screws not galvanized. They make one for tapping into steel frame that also has wood threads on top.

Also I have a ton of supplies and tools for this project that I'll make you a good deal on. Rivet tools...the cylco polisher etc.

What Chetos says makes sense. I haven't done much work on aluminum riveted trailers, just stick built. I'd need to do more research on the treated would before I could offer more information on it being suitable for use in a trailer. I've used eastern poplar for building trailer frames (not the chassis) and I've liked it. Once you finish the build, proper maintenance will ensure you can give it to your grand kids. It would surprise you how many trailers are still roadworthy that were built in the 40's and 50's with their original wood framing.

Asbestos and lead paint exposure is a real concern, though, so get a good respirator.

Chetos said:

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coolerguy12 said:

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marcel ledbetter said:

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Don't use treated lumber in your trailer. The chemicals used to treat the wood are corrosive to aluminum. I hope you're wearing a good respirator. Keep the posts coming!

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Thanks for the heads' up. What do you recommend? Hope to pass this trailer to my grandkids so don't want to cut corners on anything.

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The layering should be such that the aluminum doesn't come in contact with the treated wood. But be sure to use the coated screws not galvanized. They make one for tapping into steel frame that also has wood threads on top.

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I was planning to use stainless carriage bolts to tie the 2x4 to the frame and then self tapping screws to hold the plywood to the frame.

Also planning to get a cover and reseal the whole exterior so hopefully water penetration is a non-issue

There are Airstream trailer groups on Facebook that should point you in the right direction. Also, check out vintage trailer talk.com. there are lots of very knowledgeable people over there.

What do you mean by getting a cover and resealing everything?

Anything bolted to the roof I'll remove and reseal the bolt hole and around whatever is sticking through. Seal all the roof seams, I have seen some people use a heavy duty water proof tape on roof seams. By cover I mean a removable cover that I'll put on while in storage.

Butyl tape is what folks use to seal vents, windows, exterior trim, etc. Putty tape is similar and is what was used for decades. It works, but the butyl is a better option these day. There are some self leveling sealing compounds available that work well to seal flat surfaces such as ceiling vents but I can't remember the brand.

Most leaks will be at the vents and windows. Where the skin is joined together via a Pittsburgh seam, etc. leaks are uncommon unless there has been some structural damage. Your trailer has a nice round ceiling that should shed water like a ducks back.

The only rot in the floor is within 12" of the perimeter but it's almost 75% of the perimeter is rotted. I'm assuming any leaks will hit the inner shell and run down the wall to the perimeter. Either way I'm going to go through the roof and reseal anything that looks like it needs it.

Watchlisted. Best of luck.

I'm about to start on my 1965 Safari. Do you by chance have a Olympic Rivet shave tool you want to sell?

Cool thread.

10 years ago I bought a 1973 airstream and had plans to gut and rebuild it. Cost me 2 grand for it. Never got around to remodeling and it sat in my driveway for two years. Sold it for $3500.

Good luck.

I'm in on this cool thread.

SteveBott said:

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Good decision

Measure twice...cut once

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I'll measure about 10 times. Each sheet will weigh 104 lbs so I'll be sure to have someone help me handle them.

GeeBee said:

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I'm about to start on my 1965 Safari. Do you by chance have a Olympic Rivet shave tool you want to sell?

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Yup...pm me ur contact info.

Hadn't heard of the coosa board, so I did some reading up on it. Sounds like a good material choice for a subfloor with the exception of needing a backing plate for anything you attach to it. I would think a router and template would make good work of those radii.