Greetings to the great OB! I have been considering making a new deer stand this fall once the temps cool off. My last one has made it through 9 seasons and is still holding up ok. It does have one window that has begun to rot and needs attention. I checked inside the stand this past weekend and it is still 100% wasp/bug free and no water leaks. Just that one window. My plan is to still use this blind, but somewhere else on the ranch. Here is the link to my build from 2010 https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/1694834

Now, on to my next project. I want to make this one out of 100% metal. No wood at all! This one will hopefully last a very loooong time! I currently have 2 kids that will eventually be hunting with me in this blind. I have taken myself, the wife and kid #1 to the stand last year and we enjoyed it. With kid #2 and the plans for a 3rd kid, I'd like to make a stand large enough for all of usmaybe!

I do have some questions about what size framing to use and what size dimensions I should consider. Have any of you made your own metal stand by chance? I'm thinking about using either 1x1 square tubing for the walls and roof and 2x2" for the base/frame. Or using 1"x2" rectangle tubing for the walls/roof and still using 2x2" for the base. If I use the 1" tubing, it would help cut down on weight. As for dimensions, my current 4x8' stand is a great size, but I would like to maybe stretch it out to 5x8'.

Here are my current ideas thus far:

- Metal frame and base.

- Metal siding. Think about R panel used for roofs and barn siding. I plan on using the flat versionbefore it gets formed. Metal Mart sells various colors (offers shades of brown). 41"x10.2' sheets. $42 each. Blind will be wrapped with these metal sheets. All corners will be covered in additional trim. They offer a 40 year paint guarantee.

- Windows. Buy once, cry once! Not sure if I want the sliding version or the hinged kind? Anyone have a preference? I have hunted with the kind that slide open. You can slide the left half over to the right side and hunt out of half of the window. Do the same with the right side. Or simply remove both glass panels and have the window completely open.
o http://deerviewwindows.com/horizontal-slider-window/ 36"x 11.5" = $64.50 each. X4 windows = $258!

-Door. Again, buy once, cry once! Entry doors and windows are typically the first thing to fail on a deer stand so I want to alleviate this headache if possible. Deer View Windows offers this camper style door. About $190 for door and locking handle. http://deerviewwindows.com/blind-door/ or I could just get a framed aluminum door from a big box hardware store. It will add some weight (51#), but it will be a stronger door. And for less $$. $160. I can add my siding to the front of the door to make it match the rest of the stand. https://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-36-in-x-80-in-Flush-Primed-Right-Hand-Inswing-Steel-Prehung-Front-Door-710586/202036369

-Tower. I plan on elevating this stand about 6-8'. Not sure if I should weld up a permanent tower with all the cross pieces welded together or make everything bolt together. The fully welded tower would be heaver, but probably stouter. It would still be a 2 man job to move the tower. Oh and FYI, we do have access to a tractor with a front end loader, but it would only lift about 6-7'. My thoughts are to make the base of the blind with 6-12" legs sticking out. Then bolt on the legs/tower. Not sure if the legs should be 2-3" angle iron or maybe use square tubing on the stand base and angle iron for the legs. If I use the tubing + angle iron combo, I guess I wouldn't need to bolt the two together. Maybe still use a bolt to make everything tight.

-Stairs and porch. I want to weld up some simple stairs rather then a ladder. I've thought about using 2x3" angle iron and making the steps out of expandable metal. Help keep me from slipping when it's wet/icy/muddy. As for a porch, I don't think I need a long porch. Just something wide enough for the door to open and maybe a place for a propane bottle. If I make the base of the stand out of 2" tubing, maybe I can make the porch out of 2" angle iron and slide it into the stand base. Then bolt on my stairs to the porch. The trailer that I plan on using to haul this stand is 77" wide. If I make the stand 5' wide, that doesn't leave me much room to weld on a permanent porch. But if I do it in sections, I would make it work.

Here are some pictures I have collected throughout the years of ideas I like!

I really like this design.






Here is a layout of the 1x3" rectangle tubing. The base is 2" tubing



You can see the framing for the 4 windows and door.





Another layout. 4x4 i think




Here is the frame/tower for the Atascosa stands. http://www.awsblinds.com/




Steps for stairs








Saw this stand at Academy last year. Can't remember what brand. Looks like 1" tubing for the frame with carpet to help reduce noise (which I definitely plan on doing!)

Following. Looks like it's gonna be nice.

Hahaha...hey I know the feeling. I've just been thinking about taking on this project for the past 2 years or so and tell myself that if I decide to build one, I want it to last 20+ years. If the frame is built well, all that I'd have to replace would be the metal siding! Or my kiddos will have to worry about that...not ol dad!

I priced out some of the nice brands and the size I want cost $4,000+. I'm thinking I can do this for about $1200-1500.

i'm too low tech apparently. cow panels, burlap, t posts and plastic over here

So what would you want to build a second 5x8 at the same time? No tower.

I can't say that I have ever sat in a metal deer blind for 3 hours in July, but from November - January, the metal ones I have hunted were great!

I know an "all metal" deer stand sounds hot, but if the most popular higher quality deer stand manufacturers are building theirs out of metal and continue to sell more and more, they must be worth it or at least they are doing something right. My company lease has a bunch of fiberglass ones that are all starting to chip and crack. Some are due for another coat of paint and they are probably less than 10 years of. Sure, they could have been painted sooner and maybe the lifespan would have increased.

Just curious, have you seen any of these deer stands before? All are made out of metal siding. Some with just carpet on the inside and some with spray foam or foam board + carpet.

https://ranchkingblinds.com/hunting-blinds/

http://www.texaswildlifesupply.com/monster-deer-blinds.html

http://www.awsblinds.com/hunting-blinds/

Dillion is the only real player in the fiberglass market I believe.

haha...I hope not!

CS78 said:

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So what would you want to build a second 5x8 at the same time? No tower.

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No clue. Let me get this first one under my belt and see if I'd ever consider making them as a hobby.

great stuff! I'm sure those stands have held up well over the years. Thanks for posting the pics

The above pictures are of a 6x5 blind. All of the ones we've built have been framed out in cedar 2x2's instead or square tubing for a couple of reasons. First, all of ours have been designed like ductwork, where the two edges are knocked together using a Pittsburgh lock, you can make a square 4x4 out of one piece of metal using only one seam to knock together, 6x4 and above have two or four seams.

Second, you have to knock them together before you can frame out the inside, so it's easier and SAFER to use wood on the frame in an enclosed galvanized box than welding metal tubing and make certain it fits exactly. If the frame doesn't fit exactly and if the metal isn't rolled or put on a break to strengthen it then the metal skin will rattle with wind or bumping.

Our general formula has been 24-26 ga galvanized sheet metal skin, 0.75" fiberboard or foam board insulation, 0.25" MDF paneling, covered in outdoor rated carpet. So the wall thickness is 1" +/-, and then framed out with 2x2's around the floor and top, vertically on all corners, and around the door and windows. Also, all seams and cut openings (windows, doors) are sealed with NP-1 caulk.

If you build a blind like the above with deerview or similar windows, you'll be into it for about $1000, but it'll be comfortable and last your lifetime.

Ok. Adding non-metal insulation was not something I was thinking of, when you said an all metal deer stand. If you insulate it well, I would imagine you can make it comfortable. I do also recall being "almost" cold last deer season, so you have a good point there.

AGGIE WH08P said:

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great stuff! I'm sure those stands have held up well over the years. Thanks for posting the pics

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Forgot to add that. The floor of the blind is .75" plywood covered with carpet and the stand is simply two 6' pieces of 6"ID c channel 18 ga galvanized and five 5' pieces of 6" OD channel in 18 ga galvanized, these are screwed together to make a 6x5'x6" stand. The stand is held to the blind with five 1/2" bolts in each corner and the center.

Where are you located at?

I am making a base for my buddy right now. He is building the blind portion and making it 6'X6'. I am using 1.5" square tubing for the base frame. I found some good pricing on old drilling pipe that I am using for the legs. I am welding larger OD pipe in the corners for the actual legs to slide into. I haven't quite decided on my ladder. I am using 1" square tubing for the railing.

That looks right up my alley for my blind rebuild this spring. Have anymore drawings or pictures of the framed inside?

Thanks for the detailed post. I'll keep all of that in mind. I'm located in the DFW area

Here they are.

Are you putting in a mini-split AC or just a window unit? Satellite TV?

Haha. No AC...yet. Definitely a buddy heater. Mostly for the kiddos, ya know?!?

My dad installed a solar panel and battery to run some led lights. He has a few red strip led lights under his shelf and a light switch on the wall. Nice touch!

I made one out of square tubing and it was way too heavy. I used 1x1x14ga. I would look into metal studs or hat trim. Triple S Steel sells real tree pattern R-panel. Not flat but also don't need to paint.

A little extra area on the base all the way around would make maintenance and repainting a lot easier once it's stood up. I don't know... Overkill?

Will it have Wi-Fi and an espresso machine? How about solar panels on the roof?

hard to shoot a bow out of those windows.

Furlock Bones said:

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hard to shoot a bow out of those windows.

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But a crossbow on the other hand......

Picard said:

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Are you putting in a mini-split AC or just a window unit? Satellite TV?

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have a friend that has satellite tv, mini fridge, bbq cooker on the front porch, and a elevator built so you don't have to carry a full Yet up the narrow stairs. His blind holds six comfortably and has a big table in the middle for playing cards.

It's a great spot for an all day "hunt" on a cool crisp college football weekend.

I've left that blind at 10:00pm before, because after the sun went down we just kept playing cards, watching football, and drinking.

I'm working on 6 right now, if you were closer to the San Antonio area you could stop by. One last piece of advice is use regular flat galvanized for the roof and do not paint it. Regular galvanized tends to keep the birds off the roof, flat eliminates spaces for yellowjackets/wasps/bees/rodents to enter.

Thanks for all the tips and advice.
Yes, I'm a big fan of galvanized roof as that is what I have on my current wooden blind. Do you think there would be much of a difference between the galvanized ridged panels vs the siding I plan on using on the exterior walls? I like the idea of the galvanized keeping birds off when it heats up.

I will either angle the roof during construction or just raise one side of the stand by 0.25" so it isn't perfectly flat and rain water will run off the roof and not puddle.

Mine are all flat roofs. My dad was a sheet metal worker for nearly 40 years, the man knew what he was doing because I still have and hunt out of an original 4x4 blind we built 35+ years ago that has never been refloored, reinsulated or repainted. The only thing that's failed on it are the windows we made by cutting sheets of plexiglass to size. A lot of duct/gorilla tape currently hold them together, but it was my grandfather's blind that me and my dad made for him and I want to keep it as original as possible.

Here's the latest one I finished, it's a 4x6. I did not carpet the walls, instead I used 1/4" birch plywood to line the interior. I've quit installing a carpeted floor, instead I am just buying a 4x6 entry mat with a rubber bottom, cutting it down to size and using that so I can clean the mud and dirt out easier, rather than having 20 years of accumulated debris in the bottom of the blind. I have several more to complete that'll be normal carpeted walls.













Oh, my wife bought me a stencil so I had to use it.

AnScAggie said:

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I'll try to upload some pictures of some I've (my dad mostly when he was alive) built. I have one that has lasted 35 years. Contrary to popular belief, a well insulated metal blind can be cooler in hot conditions than a wooden one.

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The DuctMate is a nice touch!