aggiedent said:

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Looks like a rectangular lightning rod to me. If the heat doesn't cook him, the lightning will.

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I was thinking the same thing.

It's not ductmate, it's a tdf edge which is rolled on to the edge from the same piece as the box vs a separate piece added to the edge.

AnScAggie said:

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It's not ductmate, it's a tdf edge which is rolled on to the edge from the same piece as the box vs a separate piece added to the edge.

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Cool. I wasn't looking close enough. At any rate, as a layout guy prior to computers and plasma cutters, I like it!

I didn't know what it was either until I went to where my dad worked to order these and they laughed when I said ductmate edges.

Resurrecting this thread. Do you have plans you used to build the metal exterior before framing out the interior? I was planning a full wood blind with a completed base and walls that would be bolted together at the site. However this looks way better and more of what I had in mind.

aggiec05 said:

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Resurrecting this thread. Do you have plans you used to build the metal exterior before framing out the interior? I was planning a full wood blind with a completed base and walls that would be bolted together at the site. However this looks way better and more of what I had in mind.

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If this is for me, no I do not have any plans. Just go to the sheet metal fab shop you plan to use and they can design it. All these blinds are is two joints of duct with a two piece roof with a 1/4" overhang and drip edge, just pick a size 4x4, 6x4, 6x5 (I like 6x5 the best) and tell them you want the overall height to be 6.5' tall. Just make sure they put TDF/Ductmate on both the top and bottom edge of the top joint so you can attach the roof. If you are going to knock them together yourself and do all the cut outs for doors and windows I would consider 24-26 ga metal, it is lighter and easier to cut (I said in an early post I used 24-26 ga, but I misspoke mine are usually 22 ga and some 24 ga). Just remember measure ten times, mark all your cuts with a marker before you make a cut, look it over an make sure it looks right and then cut once, sheet metal is not forgiving if you mess up.

aggiec05 said:

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Resurrecting this thread. Do you have plans you used to build the metal exterior before framing out the interior? I was planning a full wood blind with a completed base and walls that would be bolted together at the site. However this looks way better and more of what I had in mind.

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I don't have plans for this particular build. Hoping to start on it in October once it cools off!

However, I have this thread for the plans on my 4x8 blind I built 10 years ago

https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/1694834

Still thinking about doing this soon. Not so much for this season, but maybe later this fall.

On your metal siding, what are the dimensions? It almost looks like you have 4x8 sheets. On the metal roofing company websites they say they have 36-40" width. So if I wanted to make mine 8' wide I'd need 3 pieces.

Also, where did you buy the siding?
Thanks!!

They aren't siding, they are sheet metal for duct work. Here are some my son and I are currently building.



If you go to a sheet metal shop they can cut your sheets as long as you want, but they will only be 60" tall or wide depending on how you look at it. The ones above are 5'x6'x6.5'. I am also building a couple of ones that are 8'x5'x6.5' but I don't have any pictures, they look exactly like the ones above though.

These came from M&M Metals in San Antonio.

Good deal.
As for paint, I'm guessing a good coat of primer outta make most exterior paint stick well to it? On you other builds, how long has the paint job lasted?

AGGIE WH08P said:

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- Metal siding. Think about R panel used for roofs and barn siding. I plan on using the flat versionbefore it gets formed. Metal Mart sells various colors (offers shades of brown). 41"x10.2' sheets. $42 each. Blind will be wrapped with these metal sheets. All corners will be covered in additional trim. They offer a 40 year paint guarantee.

- Windows. Buy once, cry once!

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It's good you're using smooth metal instead of R Panel. My metal fabricated blind has an R Panel roof and there's a company in Lubbock making metal blinds out of corrugated panel..... All it does is give another spot for yellowjackets to build a nest.
This company makes an injection molded window that's pretty cool they also make fiberglass blinds.

http://www.mylazymanstands.com/extras.html

I have a blind that is 37+ years old and has never been repainted. There's some (actually a lot) of galvanized showing through but it's still watertight besides the windows. Go to Sherwin Williams and get their paint for galvanized metal, it has a primmer already mixed in. In the pictures I posted in this thread they all have taken two coats, and that's it. If you get galvanized you can rub the surfaces you are going to paint with a vinegar mixture to make the paint stick better (I didn't) or let them weather for several months (which I did). The newest ones, I will probably have to use vinegar because I just got them last week and will be painting them next week.

Good to know.
Last question...I think...

how did you do your framing inside? Did you use aluminum studs by chance? How about the floor? Studs too?

Look on page 1 everything is there. The floor is a sheet metal pan with a 3/4" piece of plywood. The floor is screwed into the edge turned in on the bottom piece and then again from the sides into the 3/4" edge. I used 2 or 2 1/2" screws to to secure the bottom to the folded in edge and then just cut off the excess with a grinder.
If you look at the two pictures above the blind on the left is upside down and that folded in edge is the bottom of the blind. A pan goes inside and then the plywood goes inside the pan.

oh ya...woops. I only went back and looked at your first set of pics. I see them now. THanks!