I need to kill, and then keep from growing back, all grass on my fence line (3 acre area). What is the best, preferably natural way? We have a well so not looking to poison the soil.

Roundup in a backpack sprayer is what I use. It Won't hurt the soul or leech into groundwater

Define "natural"

And also, the correct answer to your question has already been posted

Diesel works really well

Fence Cocktail = Round up + 2-4D + Diesel + Splash of Water

newhowdy,

I'm responsible for maintaining several thousand feet of fence line and also the perimeter area around several large industrial buildings.

Imazapyr (Polaris/Arsenal) is an excellent residual herbicide that can give you bare ground control on the fence line for up to about 6 months, although I've only been getting about 4-5 months with my treatments.

It's usually mixed along with Roundup (glyphosate) in water along with a surfactant and applied after the vegetation starts growing. The glyphosate will kill all the green vegetation, with no residual effect, and the imazapyr will go down into the soil and prevent/kill new growth for an extended time.

You'll find imazapyr as the secondary ingredient in the big box store product 'RM43', which is 43% glyphosate and less than 1% imazapyr. I usually see RM43 selling for about $89.99 for 2.5 gallons at places like Tractor Supply, Atwoods, Home Depot and most feed/farm stores. Ortho 'Groundclear' also uses this same combination of chemicals.

If you're hardcore and have large areas to maintain, you can buy the ingredients separately and mix your own. I like a final mix of about 1.25% imazapyr (of the 27.7% concentrate) combined with 3% glyphosate (net) plus surfactant.

But imazapyr by itself is pretty expensive. I pay around $225 for a generic-brand 2.5 gallon jug of the 27.7% strength, so I wouldn't recommend mixing your own at this point.

You mentioned 'natural', but I think you meant 'safe'. - Roundup is considered safe, and as long as you keep your imazapyr-treated areas at least 10 feet or so away from desirable vegetation, you should be good.

Remember, fence lines will always be a struggle. Birds are always sitting on them and dropping seeds for new stuff to grow, and even if you shred, it's tough to get under the fence.

Have fun. Control your vegetation, or it will control you.

Oso96 said:

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Diesel works really well

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It worked great when I was a kid

Now days it barely turns the grass brown

I guess it was when they removed the sulphur

also, at home depot they sell a knock off version of round up concentrate that is half the price

Esplanade EZ. Should kill everything and give you about 5 months of relief

Be sure and use a surfactant mixed in with whatever you spray.

nonameag99 said:

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Oso96 said:

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Diesel works really well

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It worked great when I was a kid

Now days it barely turns the grass brown

I guess it was when they removed the sulphur

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Damn EPA.

Esplanade EZ and be done with it. Safe, easy, effective.

Ribeye-Rare said:

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newhowdy,

I'm responsible for maintaining several thousand feet of fence line and also the perimeter area around several large industrial buildings.

Imazapyr (Polaris/Arsenal) is an excellent residual herbicide that can give you bare ground control on the fence line for up to about 6 months, although I've only been getting about 4-5 months with my treatments.

It's usually mixed along with Roundup (glyphosate) in water along with a surfactant and applied after the vegetation starts growing. The glyphosate will kill all the green vegetation, with no residual effect, and the imazapyr will go down into the soil and prevent/kill new growth for an extended time.

You'll find imazapyr as the secondary ingredient in the big box store product 'RM43', which is 43% glyphosate and less than 1% imazapyr. I usually see RM43 selling for about $89.99 for 2.5 gallons at places like Tractor Supply, Atwoods, Home Depot and most feed/farm stores. Ortho 'Groundclear' also uses this same combination of chemicals.

If you're hardcore and have large areas to maintain, you can buy the ingredients separately and mix your own. I like a final mix of about 1.25% imazapyr (of the 27.7% concentrate) combined with 3% glyphosate (net) plus surfactant.

But imazapyr by itself is pretty expensive. I pay around $225 for a generic-brand 2.5 gallon jug of the 27.7% strength, so I wouldn't recommend mixing your own at this point.

You mentioned 'natural', but I think you meant 'safe'. - Roundup is considered safe, and as long as you keep your imazapyr-treated areas at least 10 feet or so away from desirable vegetation, you should be good.

Remember, fence lines will always be a struggle. Birds are always sitting on them and dropping seeds for new stuff to grow, and even if you shred, it's tough to get under the fence.

Have fun. Control your vegetation, or it will control you.

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I came here to post this.

If you want effective and natural, NaCl works great. There are still some places that the Romans treated that still won't grow things.

Commercial vinegar (20%) works but it's $25 a gallon that you use straight, and needs to be applied weekly.

Eraser. Pretty much same ingredients as Roundup but much cheaper. Backpack sprayer. This is my liquid weed eater.

what about grass/weed control around a pond? would spraying with imazapyr effect the water/fish in the pond (~3/4 acre stocked pond)?

The problem I have with Roundup is that I have to apply at more often, even the 365 version. If that isn't the problem then go for it, if you only want to apply once then I've had really good luck with Mojave 70. It lingers in the soil to keep anything from growing for almost a full year, so a little research would be necessary to determine the possible effects on groundwater. It is 7% Imazapyr.

If you are looking for a natural solution, IE vinegar or something like that I think you're going to be disappointed. But maybe I'm wrong

reveille23 said:

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what about grass/weed control around a pond? would spraying with imazapyr effect the water/fish in the pond (~3/4 acre stocked pond)?

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https://dnr.wi.gov/lakes/plants/factsheets/ImazapyrFactsheet.pdf

great, thanks!

Rufnek said:

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Be sure and use a surfactant mixed in with whatever you spray.

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What surfactant do you use?

Roundup and Imazuron

Following for ideas. Used Barrier with dish soap as surfactant previously, but looking for other ideas.

My grandfather used old motor oil, it's "natural"

Och26-58-87 said:

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Rufnek said:

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Be sure and use a surfactant mixed in with whatever you spray.

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What surfactant do you use?

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Some versions of Roundup already have a surfactant.

Cheap method....... liquid soap

I always buy my surfactants online because I need surfactants a lot, and they have to be the correct ones. Last year I used MES100 (it is MSO which stands for Modified Soybean Oil or Methylated Seed Oil) and also have started using another one called Hot Mes by Drexel. I am easing into that one because it is a blend of MSO and other surfactants.

I buy them online because my suppliers either do not have the correct one, or they want too much for the surfactant when their herbicide prices are very competitive. One herbicide specifically states to only use MSO yet the distributors, like Helena where I buy, do not stock it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LH46N2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will this kill trees on the fence line like Anacua and Mesquite?

Careful, Roundup is now a general marketing term for herbicides that may contain chemicals other than glyphosate.

Originally when glyphosate was still under patent , it was sold by Monsanto under the trade name " Roundup".
So glyphosate and Roundup used to be interchangeable for describing a product. .


Buy any labeled product containing glyphosate and use per the label.

robbio said:

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Will this kill trees on the fence line like Anacua and Mesquite?

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Good question.

When I want to kill trees on the fenceline (e.g. no neighbors or junk trees and neighbor is OK with it) I'll basally spray the lower trunks with diesel and 61% triclopyr ('Remedy') and it will kill just about everything except cedar/juniper.

That said, when I have a neighbor whose has some trees that are either just on his side of the fence or are large enough that their dripline extends to the fence, I won't spray (within 2 times the dripline )the mix with the imazapyr in it for fear of injuring the neighbor's tree and catching hell.

For example, I've got a neighbor with a huge post oak about 20 feet inside the fenceline. I make damn sure I don't spray the imazapyr along the fence within the dripline (x2) of that tree.

OTOH, I've had trees on the fenceline that I didn't care about and sprayed anyway. The leaves have slightly yellowed, but it didn't kill them. I guess it depends on the type of tree.

TLDR; spray mesquite along the fenceline with diesel and 61% triclopyr and within 3 weeks she'll be on the way to the undertaker.

I use Remedy and diesel but have had trouble killing Anacuas with it. I guess because the bark is so thick.

robbio said:

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I use Remedy and diesel but have had trouble killing Anacuas with it. I guess because the bark is so thick.

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I haven't had to deal with the anacuas tree, and I'm glad for that.

Just checking the internet, I found others talking about how hard it is to kill, even with picloram (Tordon).

How many are you having to deal with?

If you're in a county that has quite a few of these trees, I might suggest you call the county extension agent and pick his brain.

AgResearch said:

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reveille23 said:

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what about grass/weed control around a pond? would spraying with imazapyr effect the water/fish in the pond (~3/4 acre stocked pond)?

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https://dnr.wi.gov/lakes/plants/factsheets/ImazapyrFactsheet.pdf

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This page is not found anymore, is it safe for ponds?

I've never used imazapyr for pond applications, but the Alligare Ecomazpyr 2SL (which is 27% imazapyr) is labeled for that use, and advises:

Quote:

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Do not apply to water except as specified in this label.

Treatment of aquatic weeds may result in oxygen depletion or loss due to decomposition of dead plants.

This oxygen loss may cause the suffocation of some aquatic organisms. Do not treat more than one-half the surface area of the water in a single operation and wait at least 10 to 14 days between treatments.

Begin treatments along the shore and proceed outward in bands to allow aquatic organisms to move into untreated areas.

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I meant around the banks, so if it says you can trat ponds partially I imagine it would be safe around edges.