Topic. Looking for best wood to use when setting lattice foundation for a 70'x30' driveway. Have 15 bags of quick-Crete to get the job done.
Best type of wood to use for setting border when concreting a driveway?
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Last: 6 yr ago by Brush Country
You mean the forms? 2xwhatever is cheap. Use untreaded, it's not permanent if I'm understanding your question.
Type is untreated pine
BlueDeviledAg said:
Topic. Looking for best wood to use when setting lattice foundation for a 70'x30' driveway. Have 15 bags of quick-Crete to get the job done.
A 70x30 driveway is going to take just a few more than 15 bags..... that being said, I don't think I understand your question. What do you mean by "lattice foundation"?
Are you talking about putting up a lattice wall or border along a driveway? Like 4x4 posts every 8'? Don't use any thing untreated unless it's cedar. I'd prefer galvanized steel posts, then use two-hole straps to do 2x4 or 2x6 runners to staple the lattice to. The treated pine "yella wood" flat out sucks now, and is even says on the tag to not put it below grade....i just tore down a pole barn that was only 8 years old and even the interior poles had started rotting in the soil.
nm. Have to be misunderstanding the project
BlueDeviledAg said:
Topic. Looking for best wood to use when setting lattice foundation for a 70'x30' driveway. Have 15 bags of quick-Crete to get the job done.
How big are those bags?
Yeah for the form. Untreated, ok-- I don't want it to rot, so that's good. This is a favor I'm doing for my brother in law
How long are you planning on this job taking you? Typically, you would form it up and poor it one day. Then strip the forms off the next day or the day after. If it's a weekend job, perhaps you leave the forms on until the next week. That's still not going to come close to causing the forms to rotBlueDeviledAg said:
Yeah for the form. Untreated, ok-- I don't want it to rot, so that's good. This is a favor I'm doing for my brother in law
so this is a slab foundation and then you'll gravel over it or something? Takes 120+ 80# bags of your concrete to get 4" depth over that much area. Even doing less is still a ****ton more concrete needed.
Use 2x4 untreated for the perimeter and use 1x4 cedar for the expansion joints. Use regular 1x4 untreated for the kickers to keep the 2x perimeter straight.
I feel like we need a picture of what you're trying to build
BlueDeviledAg said:
Yeah for the form. Untreated, ok-- I don't want it to rot, so that's good. This is a favor I'm doing for my brother in law
You dont use bags of quikrete to set forms. You use wooden stakes driven into the ground with a sledge. I think that's why most are confused.
I think most of us are confused by the term "lattice foundation" and that he thinks 15 bags is enough for a 70x30 driveway.
So many OBers getting trolled.
Reading this made my head hurt. OP, please tell us you're just one giant troll.
OP may want to rent a jackhammer while he's at it.
Ribeye-Rare said:
OP may want to just hire a contractor to do it.
FIFY
There have been some wierd threads on the OB lately.
Ebony... very stable and won't wear down from the moisture and sand as quickly..
wait... did you want to spend more on the framing or the slab?
wait... did you want to spend more on the framing or the slab?
Yep
15 bags. Haha.
He bought the 2,400 lb contactor Quikrete bags from Home Depot. No worries!
I wouldn't put anything untreated down. Look, certain stuff is ground contact graded for a reason.
BlueDeviledAg said:
Topic. Looking for best wood to use when setting lattice foundation for a 70'x30' driveway. Have 15 bags of quick-Crete to get the job done.
Answer. Ipe would be best as it is rot resistant and very strong, but it will best support your lattice foundation. You'll need to predrill it and use #9 stainless screws. I'd recommend GRKs as an alternate if Home Depot is out of the #9 screws. They have trouble keeping those in stock. Anyways, you'll also need a come-a-long to spread all 15 of those bags of quick-Crete. Get the titanium model if you find it, the steel ones get heavy after a while. Best of luck!
Get a cheap pump up sprayer and form oil/form release to coat the boards to be used as forms. I've used a light cheap cooking oil in a pinch. They will break loose from the concrete much easier.
"Green" is the new RED.
Old Sarge said:
Get a cheap pump up sprayer and form oil/form release to coat the boards to be used as forms. I've used a light cheap cooking oil in a pinch. They will break loose from the concrete much easier.
Diesel works
a gmechanic 01@gma i l
(no spaces)
Are you talking about the wire support lattice inside the forms? The remesh? As in meshed rebar?
So, so many. And it just keeps coming.Brush Country said:
So many OBers getting trolled.
Yes, that's right. I talked to my BIL last night and attempted to explain the complexity. We're looking into contractors for him in the Longview area. Any recs?
Since it seems you aren't trolling, here's my actual advice on what to do:
Google "Longview ready mix concrete". You'll get results for TXI, Transit, and Contractor's Supplies. Between those three options, someone should be able to give you a recommendation on a small concrete contractor in the area capable of installing 2100sf of driveway. Someone who does good work, been around a while, pays them (the supplier) on time, etc.
FYI, you'd need 1155 bags of quikrete for 2100sf at 4" and 1470 if it was 5" thick. You're gonna be dealing with trucks and should need about 26 CY for 4" and 33 CY for 5" (neither of those figures include waste factor or allow for a thickened edge condition). I'll guess they're charging $120/CY in that area so you are looking at around $3600 for concrete material. Remesh will run you about $1400 for 175 sheets. None of those numbers matter much because your concrete guy will most likely include everything for a turnkey price. Expect something in the range of $9500 to $13000 depending on prep work, concrete thickness, access to the work area, and other factors.
Google "Longview ready mix concrete". You'll get results for TXI, Transit, and Contractor's Supplies. Between those three options, someone should be able to give you a recommendation on a small concrete contractor in the area capable of installing 2100sf of driveway. Someone who does good work, been around a while, pays them (the supplier) on time, etc.
FYI, you'd need 1155 bags of quikrete for 2100sf at 4" and 1470 if it was 5" thick. You're gonna be dealing with trucks and should need about 26 CY for 4" and 33 CY for 5" (neither of those figures include waste factor or allow for a thickened edge condition). I'll guess they're charging $120/CY in that area so you are looking at around $3600 for concrete material. Remesh will run you about $1400 for 175 sheets. None of those numbers matter much because your concrete guy will most likely include everything for a turnkey price. Expect something in the range of $9500 to $13000 depending on prep work, concrete thickness, access to the work area, and other factors.
edit: NM Didnt intend on being snarky.
ConstructionAg01 said:
Since it seems you aren't trolling, here's my actual advice on what to do:
Google "Longview ready mix concrete". You'll get results for TXI, Transit, and Contractor's Supplies. Between those three options, someone should be able to give you a recommendation on a small concrete contractor in the area capable of installing 2100sf of driveway. Someone who does good work, been around a while, pays them (the supplier) on time, etc.
FYI, you'd need 1155 bags of quikrete for 2100sf at 4" and 1470 if it was 5" thick. You're gonna be dealing with trucks and should need about 26 CY for 4" and 33 CY for 5" (neither of those figures include waste factor or allow for a thickened edge condition). I'll guess they're charging $120/CY in that area so you are looking at around $3600 for concrete material. Remesh will run you about $1400 for 175 sheets. None of those numbers matter much because your concrete guy will most likely include everything for a turnkey price. Expect something in the range of $9500 to $13000 depending on prep work, concrete thickness, access to the work area, and other factors.
Yup. Sounds about right
BlueDeviledAg said:
Yes, that's right. I talked to my BIL last night and attempted to explain the complexity. We're looking into contractors for him in the Longview area. Any recs?
Pete Viromontes is at my house as we speak doing a 24'x30' slab for my shop addition in Big Sandy. I highly recommend him, but this time of year is tough because the cold weather makes the concrete setup slow.
I'll PM you his phone number.
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