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Gheenoe Restoration Thread

19,681 Views | 23 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by Salt of the water
Salt of the water
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I've been talking about showing my 13 ft Gheenoe some love for a while. Now I have a second boat so I'm taking the 'noe out of commission to spruce it up. I was hoping to start this project back in February but I ended up putting it on hold to do a woodwork project for the wife.

The hull was built in '98. I bought it in March of '15 from a guy who brought it to TX from Florida. It think he bought it used from someone in Florida. I hauled it to Florida and back on a trip last summer so it's definitely covered some ground.

The boat's been fished hard and was the ideal starter boat to get out into the marsh at a reasonable price. The motor I have is a simple tiller 2 stroke 8 hp and there aren't really any maintenance items on the hull so it's been very easy to use and maintain.

Shortly after I got the boat, I added a grab bar so I could run standing up and installed a small gps so I didn't get lost in the marsh. The only real maintenance I did was a little bit of glass work to patch some holes in the benches from where there were rotating seat posts earlier, and patch a soft spot in the bow where I found an oyster bed at full throttle.

The plan for the build:
  • Cut out both benches and storage box
  • Add a false floor down the center of the boat
  • Add a front deck with space for a 3 gallon gas tank, install a couple rod tubes on each side and pour expanding foam in the rest of the space.
  • Re-install the grab bar in the center of the boat and come up with a battery storage box. I want to make the electrical neat and tidy this time unlike the hodgepodge I did on the first go.
  • Install a rear deck with a big hatch for life jackets and safety gear. Leave a cutout that will make a bilge i can put my pump in and pour flotation foam in the rest.
  • Paint the inside of the hull. I'm probably going to go with Rustoleum topside sand color. I used rustoleum topside on the seat patches to get an idea of how it would hold up and it's been solid.
  • Fair the outside of the hull and patch the dings and oyster scrapes. I'll probably end up putting down a new layer of glass along the center of the boat because it's pretty scraped up.
  • Paint the outside or take it somewhere to get sprayed. Thinking about a bright seafoam color.
  • Install a manual jack plate to help me run a little shallower. I've been keeping an eye out for a deal on a 2 stroke 9.9 but the 8 that I have has been a solid little motor so I'm not in any rush to upgrade.

Here's some builds of other 13' Gheenoes that i'm using for inspiration to give y'all a feel for what I'm trying to accomplish.






I got it stripped down this weekend. Next step is to start removing the benches and getting everything sanded down.













I have epoxy resin, 6 oz glass, and fumed silica to make filler. I've used a nose/mouth respirator in the past and then safety glasses for my eyes, but I'm thinking about going to a full face respirator because my glasses always fog up. I'll probably get a couple of tyvek suits also to try and keep the itch down some.

Still undecided on wood vs composite. Probably going to go with 3/8" marine grade plywood, but I may change my mind last minute and get a composite like coosa.

I'm also going to do a couple corings in the transom to see if it needs to be re-done. If I hang a heavier motor off a jack plate the transom will probably need some reinforcement.

I'm sure that once I get into the meat of the fiberglass work, I'm going to have some questions. I know a couple of y'all on here have build and/or restored boats, so if you have any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.

Edit - hope the build goes smoother than my attempt to get images posted right
Strongwind86
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AG
Cool looking project. Keep the pics coming!
reddog90
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Awesome, keep us updated. I've always loved a layout like that tan NMZ. How has it been so far fishing out of it with the benches?
Salt of the water
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Fishing with the benches wasn't that bad, it was just a pain to move around the boat and the storage wasn't great. The benches are supposed to both be flotation foam filled so if you swamp the boat it won't sick. One of the previous owners had cut out some little cubbies in the benches and defeated the purpose.

If I had someone with me, one guy would pole off the back bench and the other would fish from the front bench.

If I was solo I would stand on a cooler on between the front bench and center box.
Ayto Siks
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Cool boat. Bring 'er back down to Florida when she's done.
elnaco
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Good to see you're finally getting started on her!

Might want to plan to redo or at least reinforce the transom if you're going to put a jack plate on there, cuz lever arms and what not. Instead of building a coffin box in the middle, you could just put tie downs on the deck and just use your cooler. That'd save some space. Also, graphite paint on the bottom could help with the oyster rash.

Let me know if you need any help, I should be back in town in the next few weeks. Looking forward to fishin on her again!

Salt of the water
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Ayto - I think next time I haul a boat to Florida, it'll be the panga. It's more versatile.

Elnaco - it'll be a while before the glassing starts. I'll let you know.
Salt of the water
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I got a little time to work on the boat this weekend. Full face mask and tyvek suit are the way to go, no itch and no fogged up glasses.

One bench out and some of the gel coat removed.



Salt of the water
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The sanding continues. All benches are now out, the bench tabs are ground flat, and the gel coat removal is progressing slowly.



Plan after the gel coat is removed:
Patchy any weak/thin spots
False floor
Front deck
Rear deck forward bulkhead.
Transom evaluation. (It feels solid but I'm going to take a couple cores out to make sure there's no rot).
Transom repair if needed.
Rear deck.
Interior paint.

Once the inside of the hull is done, I'm going to flip it and prep for paint. Still undecided on painting myself (roll/tip) or taking it to get sprayed.
CEPhD
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Looking good!
Salt of the water
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Gel coat removal burnt up my cheapo harbor freight grinder. Finally got around to getting a new one and got back to work.



A couple more weeknights of grinding and sanding and then I should be able to start glassing.

Found a few poorly laminated sections of chopped mat around the bench areas so decided to get all the gel out of the bottom and lay a whole new bottom. I'm glad I did the extra work because I found a few air pockets and cracks that I sanded out. Nothing has punched through the hull yet but a few spots were close. Sand throughs aren't a huge concern, but if I can avoid them it'll save me from having to flip the hull and do a two sided patch on them before the false floor goes in.

I've been putting off sanding the concave section thats a couple inches wide in the middle. It's going to be a pain, but to redo the bottom of the hull with one large peice of fiberglass the gel needs to come out. If anyone has any sanding tips for tricky sections like that I'm all ears.
Jrod05
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Salt of the water
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It's been a while since I updated this thing. I'm making slow progress because of a mix of fishing and trouble getting a free-time window to line up with good fiberglassing weather.

False floor (sole) is in. I pre-glassed both sides of 1/4" marine ply with 6 oz glass. It deflects some once it gets a little longer than a 2 ft span, but is plenty stiff for spanning the 12" center drain in the floor.

The floor is bedded down to the hull with fumed silica thickened epoxy resin. Once everything cured, it was very noticeable when lifting the hull that the floor helped stiffen up the longitudinal rigidity. After a rough attempt at sanding the fumed silica thickened epoxy, I'm waiting on some fairing filler (much easier to sand). Once that's in, I'll get the false floor seams with the hull flush and then add one last layer of glass over the whole bottom of the inside of the hull.



Next up is front bulkheads and a front casting deck. I'm sticking with 1/4" marine ply with 6 oz fiberglass cloth on both sides to try and keep weight down. This means my deck spans will be a little flimsy, so I'm going to glass in a pultruded fiberglass c-channel under the center of the deck to stiffen things up. The fiberglass c-channel should limit my deck deflections without adding as much weight as a thicker plywood panel would.

One of the traditional methods for reducing deflections on thin / light laminations is to camber them so you get increased compression resistance like an eggshell. If the fiberglass channels don't work like they think they will, I'll probably end up going the cambered route.

After the front deck is in and helps stiffen up the hull beamwise, I'm going to move on to the rear deck and transom. I'm hoping to be able to keep the outermost fiberglass layer on the transom so I don't have to fight any hull warp while I re-build the stern. From what I've read on other gheenoe restorations, it's about 50/50 whether you can get the existing wood out of the transom and salvage the outer layer of glass.

I'm still not 100% set on new transom material. I'll probably end up going with a couple layers of 1/2" ply but I am tempted to go composite on the transom since I plan to have a few through hull bolts and hardware pieces.
normaleagle05
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Salt of the water
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I know there's a couple guys on here that have built/restored boats. I'm looking for some pointers if anyone has thoughts or suggestions.

I'm going to try and finish the bottom of the hull this weekend but not sure on what the best method is. I see three ways I can tackle it:

1. Fiberglass the floor in, add fairing filler, sand/fair

2. Add fairing filler, sand/fair the bottom to smooth out the uneven spots, fiberglass, re-fair the weave

3. Fiberglass the floor in, add fairing filler sand/fair, fiberglass over that, fair the weave of the glass

Number 3 seems excessive. Not sure if 1 or 2 is a better method. Planning to paint with Rustoleum topside if that makes a difference.

I also have cabosil/fumed silica if I need to use that in the first part of the second option instead of fairing filler.
Salt of the water
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Finally feel like I'm making headway. Front bulkheads are filetted and tabbed in. Front deck lacks paint in the interior of the hatches, flotation foam, pvc rod tubes, and bonding the top of the deck.

Made a small hatch in the front half of the deck and an open compartment for a fuel tank in the back half.









Cutting the bulkheads to the hull contour was a pain and I didn't do that great of a job. Should have gotten a contouring tool.

Used zip locks with a corner cutout to install thickened resin for the fillets cake batter style. Much better than trying to apply with a spreader.
Jack Squat 83
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Cool project.
Salt of the water
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I've put the gheenoe on hold while I rig up my other boat. Currently working on mounting a transom mounted poling platform. I snapped some pictures of the way I'm doing transom through hulls. May be useful for someone else who's trying to mount any accessories on their transom.

First you want to mark your holes and then drill them out larger than your fastener (screw or through bolt). This way when you install your fastener you won't get water intrusion into your hull core whether it's wood or foam. Creating an epoxy plug like this also helps prevent you from crushing a foam core which will degrade under too much stress. These will be through bolted so I drilled all the way through. If you're just setting screws in a deck you'd want to leave the fiberglass on the bottom and only remove the top layer of glass.




For foam or honeycomb cores, remove the core from behind the fiberglass around your hole. This gives your epoxy more surface to bond to. It's not really feasible or necessary to remove the core if it's wood. My transom is a foam core so I used a dremel and wheel to remove the foam.




Then clean the hole up with a combination of vacuuming and acetone on a q-tip. Tape it off so you can start pouring in epoxy. For holes on a deck, if you didn't drill all the way through the bottom layer of glass you won't need the tape.

I made small holes that will allow me to inject epoxy into the top of the cavity that I created. Now just mix up epoxy and fill up the holes. Cheap syringes make keeping the work clean much easier.




Once it cures you can re-drill the correct size hole for your bolt or drill a pilot hole for a screw and set a screw. 5200 is overkill for setting a fastener in epoxy like this. I'd recommend sealing with a polysulfide caulk.

For small holes on vertical surfaces you can mix in fumed silica / cabosil to thicken up the epoxy enough that it won't run and you can probably avoid the tape.
MouthBQ98
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I've learned a few tricks in my builds and restorations. I didn't notice this thread before or I would have chipped in advice. Good idea to backfill around any hole or void. I usually add in some milled glass fiber for added strength. Just wear a mask and don't stir it up.
Salt of the water
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Here's some post rigging shots from my panga. Finally got it back on the water today and got everything tested out. After I get a trolling motor put on I'll be able to get back to work on the gheenoe.









Not really happy about all the excess depth finder cable. Anyone ever shortened one up?


reddog90
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Nice work!
Salt of the water
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Finally got the trolling motor installed on the panga. It ended up taking longer than I planned because my initial plan of bolting it to the gunnel did not work out. I had to build a cap for the bow to mount it and ended up redoing my cleat and nav light. The bow cap bulkhead has an onboard charging plug, and a battery tender trolling motor plug so the TM can be quickly removed.



Also had to build a tray in the bow storage hatch to keep the batteries secure. The batteries are AGM batteries which should handle the bouncing in the bow a little better than regular lead acid deep cycles.


Some before/after photos.
Her birth in Mexico:


Maiden Voyage:


Today:



After some fishing time, I'll finally get back to work on the gheenoe.
Superdave1993
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In, and good luck
Salt of the water
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Between fishing in the panga and moving houses this fall, the gheenoe has languished. I made no progress on the little boat in 2018.

The good news is that the new house has a larger garage that fits both my truck and gheenoe. Should be easier to get back on the wagon now that I can work on it some in the evenings.

Snapped a picture pulling it out of storage and getting it moved.
Salt of the water
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No progress made this year. Need to free up some more garage space. Hope this goes to someone who'll finish it and slay some fish.
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/13-ft-gheenoe-houston-tx-1250.68692/
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