Just finished staking out the the 150 yard driveway that will connect the county road to our homesite. Any suggested alternatives somewhere between caliche and concrete/paving? I'd like to find something in the middle in terms of look and cost.

Any suggestions? Architect likes the idea of doing a tar and chip.

Crushed or recycled concrete

Crushed pecan hulls

I did caliche base covered in river rock.

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Crushed or recycled concrete

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I did this and regretted it for years due to the flats I got from bits of rebar and wire mesh

Steel slag (NOT coal bottom ash).

Tar & chip.

Iron slag if you can find it

The main roadway into the "subdivision" (a handful of 5-15 acreage plots) is tar and chip, and it has held up very well while greying nicely to fit with the surrounding hill country limestone. So it has me leaning that direction.

Buddy of mine used crushed red granite. He is in the hill country so not sure if cost effective to transport to your place.

I'm due east of Bulverde and south west of Canyon Lake.

Assuming the gravel came from Burnett area and he is 30 minutes north of Lampassis sounds like you are about the same distance from the source. He said cost was compatible to caliche and no dust. Held up pretty well so far, about a year down. Probably top off in the next 6 months

Asphalt millings work very well, on a road that is already established (think limestone base or crushed concrete, then topped with asphalt millings). Blades very easily, no dust.

We have a drive made from crushed oyster shells. Was put in after the 1964 flood on the Brazos. Been through the toughest conditions imaginable, from heavy equipment, floods, and even heavy equipment during floods. Never had to do anything to it that entire time. If we could we would do every drive that way.

Interesting! Have any pictures?

I haven't calculated material needs, but I imagine it will be difficult to locate crushed oyster at a reasonable trucking distance from the Texas Hill Country.

Crushed asphalt

Milled asphalt, or chip seal aka two-course aka tar and chip.

Milled asphalt works well if you can find a source (road contractor) nearby looking to get rid of it. Blades well and compacts very well in the summer heat when the binders reactivate and can set. We have this at our construction yard and it has performed surprisingly well for 8 years or so.

Chipseal over some profile (thickness) of crushed limestone base also fits exactly what you seem to be asking for cost and performance wise. This option is your cheapest, likely by a long way but it depends on your location.

HMAC would be the most expensive option you could consider that is still less than concrete. Cost depends a lot on your proximity to a hot mix plant. Time of year you are paving is also important.

Stay away from crushed granite IMHO. It is a more expensive option, has little/no binders, and will wash easily. Decomposed granite is better, but more expensive. Both will grow weeds like crazy, decomposed worse than crushed.

I'd recommend installing the limestone base during construction then whatever covering you choose after the traffic is finished.

Thanks for the tips ConstructionAg. I do like the idea of waiting for construction to complete before adding a topper. Great advice.

ConstructionAg has sound advice. If you go with something other than asphalt or chip seal I'd put in a concrete ribbon curb to hold the edge in place. It will pay for itself over its life and keep your drive looking nice.

Make sure you prepare a substantial base. I can't count the number of jacked up driveways that I come across because the base was "too expensive" so they just put 3" of caliche and wondered why their driveway sucked. Call a pit and ask for road base. Most pits will be able to accommodate because of TXDOT specs for roads.

Should be out that direction this week, can take a few photos then.

Limestone rock asphalt is probably the real answer if you were west of SA.

If you have hardwood floors the granite particulates will wedge in your shoes often enough to ruin your floors.

Bones of your enemies. Works great for me.

CRUSHED LIMESTONE

He has 100 year old hard wood from top to bottom of his cabin. Brother mines farms and barns.

I second river rock.
That is all we ever had in my hometown.
Hell to play basketball on.

Crushed granite, concrete, pecan are great tops. Can't really beat a caliche base properly laid and packed as long as you have a good top layer. As mentioned above with the recycled concrete and rebar/mesh.... Know where it's coming from. Somebody mentioned crushed limestone to match the area but then you'll be dealing with dusting like caliche and washouts very bad when it rains. My personal choice is caliche rip rap base unless you're in rocky ground then 6" caliche with top of your choice. If you can find sb2 granite you'll love it as a top

Maybe I should have clarified the word driveway. I'm talking a road - 150 yards of it - from county road at the bottom, wind up a hill, and end at the house parking court. This will require some dirt work, tree removal, and grading before it's ready for base and topper.

Appreciate all the input. Currently learning toward finding Txdot base somewhere in Comal-Hays-Guad-Bexar county and then someone to do a solid seal and chip.

lime slurry

Line it out and I'll cut it

Make sure you have adequate drainage. Water will be detrimental to the life of your drive.

I've had some experience with kiln dust recycled subgrade. Mix it into subgrade with a big mixer (bomag) and water. Blade it in. Sets up extremely hard. Then I'd do a seal coat or chip seal on top of it. Two course preferred.

Recently I've seen this subgrade recycle in place go between $15-20 per square yard. It's a big cost up front but will pay off later if you're not having to perform a lot of maintenance year after year.

Tim - shoot me an email:

Chip seal is good, hot mix is better!