Not sure what board to post this on, but what the heck...My BIL gave me a pitching machine and says it simply needs a new circuit board in order to work. The new board costs about $170.

What does Texags think? Is a new circuit board going to fix this? You can see a burn mark in top middle.

Affirmative
Google is your friend.

So I don't know if the circuit board is the only problem - but that does look like something arced. I would certainly try replacing it to see if it works. Make sure and understand the return policy for the new board before you order it. You should expect at least a 10% restocking fee - still a good bet to try.

Looks like a bit of copper wire and solder and you could test it.

unimboti nkum said:

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have you tried turning it off and then back on again?

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Isn't ctrl-alt-del first. Also, could just solder that connection where one can see daylight.

P.s., did you plug it in?

OP getting his 6 year old ready for the Select travel T-ball Summer circuit. Gotta get that NAIA scholarship.

UmustBKidding said:

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Personally would try to repair the board. But many times this type of pcb failures are because of something downstream of it. Looks like a motor driver I would check all the motors turn freely and check with ohm meter for shorts in them. If external short the new one is going to fail the same way and return policy will be a non issue. Changing the failed diode would be straight forward and if the motors check out would be my attempt.

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This guy is almost for sure right. The component that burnt out probably had too much load on it. That needs to be looked at first, otherwise you will get the same problem when you fix the electronics.

I'm no engineer - oh wait - yes I have an engineering degree from A&M - but I agree with MOUTH98BQ.

A small piece of wire and some solder might fix it cheap and if not you can still replace the board.

It's all ball bearings these days. Have you checked the knuter valve? Perhaps draining the blinker fluid first before also checking the fetzer valve.

Oh you might also need a left-handed screwdriver.

Just like the good Dr. above, I too have a degree in engineering from the Cow College.
You have some sort of motor controller board.

The black and white wires to the left are the AC input.
The big red disk is a MOV sort of a protection against voltage spikes.
S1, S2, and S3 are the control signals fromsomewhere else.
Of the devices on the heat sink, two are SCR's (Silicon controlled rectifiers) and the middle three are just big diodes.

Evidently, the diode in the center got HOT!!!! Probably caused by its motor drawing way too much current (jammed?).
Before soldering a jumper wire, check the diode with a Volt / Ohm meter. Most nowadays have a diode checking position. Touch the VOM leads to each leg of the diode then reverse your VOM leads. In one position the diode will show a lower resistance and in the other, a very high resistance. If you see a high resistance in both directions, you have a blown diode. Not hard to replace.

If you do have a good diode, figure out WHY the motor is not feeling well.
A other have said - solder a jumper wire across the burnt leads and Stand Back! What have you got to loose.

NoahAg said:

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OP getting his 6 year old ready for the Select travel T-ball Summer circuit. Gotta get that NAIA scholarship.

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Since this is baseball, that will be a 1/4 NAIA scholarship. ie $37.92 taxes not included.