So 1978 house flooded 41-42 inches
Gutting to 8feet
Question is how to correct replace the sheathing / vapor barrier behind the brick...without removing the brick? Is there such a way?

I'm hearing some sort of spray foam

Curious to leverage your learnings here as most of the houses in my Hood have this same issue.

Rustys-Beef-o-Reeno said:

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I'm hearing some sort of spray foam

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It's expensive, but closed cell spray foam insulation is a vapor and moisture barrier. As was said, you can't replace the sheathing.

This is what we are going to do

Interesting approach. I really don't want to remove brick veneer.

We had this issue come up on houses we demo'd today in N-Ham Forest. That video seems like a good process. And closed cell foam will be much better than the batt insulation that was in there before the flood.

Going to the MTI website and doing a little reading. Their system doesn't require the sprayed in closed cell foam. They say you can go back with rigid board insulation if you like... That would save a ton of money if you weren't looking for the Cadillac of insulation.

I just got bunch of information from MTI - spent 30 mins talking to the owner. He recommends SC5016 product. Seems like a good solution - not a clean solution however. Ideal repair would be removing the brick veneer, but it will be really expensive. I might be using MTI system on my house once I can find a contractor that can do this - it's pretty simple install but labor intensive, but I see someone jacking it up if not done properly. He said that if we do a big order, the cost may be reduced.

What kind of cost is he quoting for the material?

If their system is too much, I'm guessing you could piece together the same concept using the individual components. Starting with something like this (http://wirebond.com/?page_id=1921) as a base.

.92 / sq ft

This looks to be elegant as a onetime solution. I would also suggest the following:

• talk with City of Houston Code Compliance. Outside Houston City Limits, you may find the County deferring to CoH Inspection Compliance
• determine the warranty period on installation, and
• what warranties are included for future flood damage

If we were to have another flood, and you got water in the house, water will get trapped between the studs and the membrane (not between membrane and foam). it will be difficult to get to, and may encourage rotting in the framing members. This is a big Maybe, but...

Oskar_Z28 said:

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Interesting approach. I really don't want to remove brick veneer.

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Just for giggles, why not get a quote from a masonry contractor to install all new brick, but you buy the material. Brick will cost about $500-$600 / 1000 (figure 5 brick / SF of wall area). mortar and sand, about $150 / 1000. If you have the standard Modular brick, you may have to figure 7 brick / SF.

Remember to include demo, clean - up of the existing brick. I know the Pocket foam sounds attractive, but go into the deal with eyes wide open. Keeping the brick means keeping any problems it may have.

Good morning... We are a spray foam insulation company here in the Houston area and we have been dealing with hundreds upon hundreds of the same issue.

Using the closed cell foam up to the existing non damaged area, creating a new drainage plane, and moving the weep holes up.


WWW.ENERGYASSAULT.COM

texagpilot said:

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I'm leary of all the repair sheathing from inside fixes. Im in commercial construction, and it just goes against everything ive been taught or installed. There will always be a seam in your moisture barrier and it leave the outside of stud exposed from what i seen. No way to get a seamless moisture barrier behind the brick. I have one of my masonry/waterproofing contractors coming by tomorrow to give me estimate on taking off brick (salvaging or replacing), replace sheathing, new waterproofing, and install brick. I plan to stay at this house for a long time so want it done correctly with no moisture mold issues creeping up down the road.

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Id you are in or around Houston ... Call me I will come out and give you free estimate .
John Harper
877-FOAM-538
541-301-1720 CELL

Here is a website I found talking about this very issue.

https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Brick-Veneer-Wall-Flood-Damage-Repair.php

This guy is saying that you could remove the sheathing (leaving the board between the studs and the veneer), clean up the brick and then spray foam right onto the back of the veneer. Then they say to put new weep holes at the top of the spray foam insulation.

I'm still investigating, but it seems to make pretty good sense to me.

We have the following product behind the brick veneer in my mom's house. Can anyone speak what we need to do?

This is in an area where it was exposed, the sheathing behind the brick is generally in better condition.

https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Brick-Veneer-Wall-Flood-Damage-Repair.php

The diagram and wall section on this page shows the original as-built condition. Where do they show the repair condition? Am I missing something?

TulaneAg said:

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https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Brick-Veneer-Wall-Flood-Damage-Repair.php

The diagram and wall section on this page shows the original as-built condition. Where do they show the repair condition? Am I missing something?

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It only describes the repaired condition. There isn't a diagram.

Quote:

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This is in an area where it was exposed, the sheathing behind the brick is generally in better condition.

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I think it is a wood-fiber sheathing material, I remember using it back in the 70`s. i think it has an asphalt coating to make it waterproof, but will hold water, especially from a flooding. it is not structural.

Replace it. The 1/2" foil-coated styrofoam is a more modern substitute. About $7-$10 a sheet, depending on wall height.

With the closed cell foam, you need an air gap between it and bricks, Right?

Yes

Did you do it yet? Who are you using?

This doesn't sound exactly like that video? No air gap and move weep holes up?

Options that I've learned:

1. Replace styrofoam board -- cut pieces to match size, put in place, seal in. Tedious work if not done well will be problematic in future.

2. Closed cell spray foam -- must have air gap like the video here. Anyone who says no air gap and sprays directly onto brick, move weep hole up is not doing it right. If done right should be just fine, but this is more expensive.

3. Celbar spray -- says they can spray directly onto brick.

*3: will learn more tomorrow after I meet with someone

Aggie Athlete Involved said:

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Options that I've learned:

1. Replace styrofoam board -- cut pieces to match size, put in place, seal in. Tedious work if not done well will be problematic in future.

2. Closed cell spray foam -- must have air gap like the video here. Anyone who says no air gap and sprays directly onto brick, move weep hole up is not doing it right. If done right should be just fine, but this is more expensive.

3. Celbar spray -- says they can spray directly onto brick.

*3: will learn more tomorrow after I meet with someone

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I guess the sprayed cellulose insulation has better permeability than closed cell foam.

SeMgCo87 said:

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Quote:

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This is in an area where it was exposed, the sheathing behind the brick is generally in better condition.

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I think it is a wood-fiber sheathing material, I remember using it back in the 70`s. i think it has an asphalt coating to make it waterproof, but will hold water, especially from a flooding. it is not structural.

Replace it. The 1/2" foil-coated styrofoam is a more modern substitute. About $7-$10 a sheet, depending on wall height.

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The house was built in the 70s. I'm pretty set on not leaving it in the wall. There was at least a foot of water in the house for like 2 days.

I'm going to talk to a structural engineer to get a letter saying that it isn't structural or guidance on where/how to reinforce.

Putting rigid foam board in there scares me because I don't trust any contractor to make sure that it is properly sealed in every single stud bay...

What does everyone think about taping this material into the stud bays against the brick and then spraying the foam onto it?

Delta-Dry Rainscreen

If we check all the weep holes and make sure they're clear, this should provide a route for moisture to exit the area behind the brick.

TMoney2007 said:

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What does everyone think about taping this material into the stud bays against the brick and then spraying the foam onto it?

Delta-Dry Rainscreen

If we check all the weep holes and make sure they're clear, this should provide a route for moisture to exit the area behind the brick.

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T,

I have built a lot of houses, and never seen it used in this area of the country. The Manufacturer stamp indicates Canada, and NAHB may be for Northern states. It may be okay for Minnesota, ND, Montana & Wisconsin, but I am not sure it was designed for Houston/Texas type humidity and rain.

I wouldn't use it.

SeMgCo87 said:

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TMoney2007 said:

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What does everyone think about taping this material into the stud bays against the brick and then spraying the foam onto it?

Delta-Dry Rainscreen

If we check all the weep holes and make sure they're clear, this should provide a route for moisture to exit the area behind the brick.

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T,

I have built a lot of houses, and never seen it used in this area of the country. The Manufacturer stamp indicates Canada, and NAHB may be for Northern states. It may be okay for Minnesota, ND, Montana & Wisconsin, but I am not sure it was designed for Houston/Texas type humidity and rain.

I wouldn't use it.

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What can I use? I can't find a distributor in town for the MTI product. I've heard of people using rain screen for this purpose.

I know the implication is that we should pull off all of the veneer and redo the sheathing from the outside, but let's pretend like that's not going to happen.

Quote:

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What can I use? I can't find a distributor in town for the MTI product. I've heard of people using rain screen for this purpose.

I know the implication is that we should pull off all of the veneer and redo the sheathing from the outside, but let's pretend like that's not going to happen.

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T,

Sorry, I am not very good at pretending. You already have some brick veneer wall demo'ed, right? How much SF is left?

Without being able to draw pictures, or take photos of your damaged veneer, please consider these issues:

• Are you planning to reclaim the brick that's fallen off? Include knocking off all of the old mortar, without breaking any brick?
• What are your chances of finding replacement brick that matches color, texture and weathering?
• During the 70's and early 80's, Brick masons did not follow rules adequately on making weep holes functional. Nor did builders hold them to that standard. As a result, one would find huge blobs of mortar piled up along the first course. Hence, the creation of another run of weep holes on the second course. Even if the Masons were careful on that set, any water collecting is at bottom plate level, or higher. Just as much chance of running inside as it would run out the weep holes.
• Any brick left standing will have mold on it, in the mortar joints and everywhere you don't want it. Even if you spray bleach on it all day, you won't get it all. Bleach may also react with some components of the mortar, possibly breaking the bonds even more on 40+/- yr old joints.
• if you want to sell the house later on, you will have to disclose the flooding and what you did to repair it. And house inspectors are not fair, their client is the buyer, so they will pick and pick, and you get no chance to refute their findings, in my experience.

It's still your house, and your choice. Just take the time to look at all the options, and choose with eyes wide open. Check with City of Houston Code Compliance. And, you or the contractor will be submitting for a permit, so please do your homework.

None of it is demoed and none of it is cracked or damaged (I don't know where those assumptions came from.) From the outside, the veneer looks to be in good shape. The picture of the sheathing is in another spot where it was used behind wood in a non-conditioned space.

Additionally, the house is not in the city Houston, it is in Friendswood.

Your point is well taken. We should spend $60k that insurance probably won't give us to tear out all of the brick on the house and rebuild it. I get it. You've said it plenty. I understand.

I don't want to be rude, but if you are just going to continue to not provide assistance, I think your work is done here. Rather than find some peripheral reason why a material or technique won't work, just let your previous comments about replacing the brick stand. You could even repeat them, but to fabricate the idea that a material won't work because it has a cert from Canada and that the US one probably only applies to Northern states is disingenuous.

T,

There is a house along Kirkwood just North of Buffalo Bayou that has been under Construction for awhile (possibly Wilcrest, I don't know, I slept since then). Nice, high-end neighborhood. Before Harvey, it was bricked, but I can not say if it was Insulated / Drywalled.

I think the flood level from Harvey (or the dam releases) reached about 3' up the brick. Last time I drove by the house, the brick had been demo'ed, and sheathing stripped.

You might want to contact the builder as to the "why" of his decision.