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The Basics #5: Bechamel Sauce

5,464 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 13 yr ago by ajn142
HTownAg98
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Now that I've had some time to come up for air, time for another basic: bechamel sauce. There are only three ingredients to it: whole milk, butter, and flour. If you've got a kitchen scale (which, if you don't have one by now, get one, please), this makes things very easy, as you're just converting numbers up and down to get the end result of what you need.
Bechamel starts with a fat and flour roux. The classic roux is made with clarified butter, but since butter is roughly 20% water, it makes the numbers harder to calculate. Instead, I'm using oil as my fat for the roux. If you want to use whole, butter, increase the butter by 20% to get a close approximation to how much butter you need.

3 parts fat
2 parts flour
all by weight

The thickening ratio is 10 parts liquid to 1 part roux.

Since water and milk weigh roughly the same (it's close enough for this application), we'll run the numbers backwards to see how much butter and flour we need. If we want to end up with 2 cups of bechamel sauce, we need roughly 2 cups of milk, which weighs 1 pound, or 16 ounces. In that case, we need 1.6 ounces of roux. Doing some quick math with some rounding, that means we need about an ounce of oil and 0.6 ounces of flour. There is a simpler ratio to use for butter, and I'll show that one at the end.

You'll need a whisk and a medium saucepan to make this. That's it.


And thus we begin. Put the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil begins to ripple, dump in the flour all at once, and whisk like mad. It will become lumpy, the bottom of the pan will dry out, and you'll swear you're going to burn everything. Do not fret, once the fat and oil begin to cook, it will liquify again. Promise. The question then becomes how long to cook this? My standard answer is until it no longer smells like raw flour, and there are no lumps. It should take about 5 minutes or so. The key is to get very little color: you want to end up with what is commonly called a "blonde roux." If it's starting to brown, get it off the heat asap. The other key is to keep stirring it the entire time to help prevent the roux from browning.

Now comes time to add the milk. If you've made the roux ahead of time and you've kept it in the fridge, you will need to either warm up the milk or the roux. This leads to another key in making bechamel. EITHER THE ROUX OR THE MILK MUST BE HOT, BUT NOT BOTH. Having both hot will result in lumps. I cannot stress this enough.

Assuming you're still with us with the roux cooking away, it's time to slowly pour in the milk. Keep whisking the entire time you're adding the milk. You may notice some lumps, but they should cook out if you're whisking enough. Lower the heat to medium low, and continue stirring. You do not want to feel anything sticking to the bottom of the pot. If you do, you are scorching your sauce, which means your heat is too high. When cooking with milk, low and slow is good. Once it comes to a bare simmer, the flour in the roux should have done it's work and thickened the sauce. Kill the heat, and you're done. That's it. Really.

Some refinements you can make are to reduce the sauce if you want it thicker. Just keep the heat pretty low, barely simmering, and stir it often to prevent scorching. When you've got it to the thickness you want, you can add lots of things to it. Add grated cheese (off the heat please), and you've got cheese sauce. Add some sauteed mushrooms, and you've got a cream of mushroom sauce that knocks the pants off of anything that could come out of a can. Another thing to keep in mind is that sauces (in most cases) should be aggressively seasoned. Not salty, but just to the point below where you would think it's salty. I also like adding a grate of nutmeg to it if I'm going to use it to make lasagna.

I told you there is a very easy ratio to remember if you want to make your bechamel with butter. Here it is.
1 Tablespoon flour
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Cup whole milk

That is likely easier to remember, and more practical for the home cook.
bonfirewillburn
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....missing some MAJOR components to Bechamel there htown.....but great technique!!

1 lb of roux
4.5 quarts of Milk
2/3 oz of salt
one pinch of white pepper (though I ALWAYS leave out)
one pinch of Nutmeg
1 sprig of thyme
1 minced onion

(then I add one or 2 bay leaf)

sweat your onion, in your fat then add your flour. add 1/2 your milk (cold) and your thyme and (bay if you use) bring to a simmer as stated until thickened then add your second half of milk and return to a simmer - this allows you to cook the rawness out of your flour and use it immediately - instead you need to simmer SLOWLY for 20 min - strain and season - the NUTMEG IS NON-NEGOTIABLE it MAKES Bechamel.





[This message has been edited by bonfirewillburn (edited 3/12/2012 5:34p).]
mike07civil
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Great for Mac and cheese as well as a cheesy lasagna.
Jack Burton
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Thanks!

Your way seems much easier than mine- ie, about the same about butter and flour then eyeball the milk until it looks right

FIDO*98*
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quote:
if you want it thicker. Just keep the heat pretty low, barely simmering, and stir it often to prevent scorching


or just use more roux or less liquid
biobioprof
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The absolutely easiest way to make bechamel is with a beurre manié instead of a roux. I learned this from Jaques Pepin's La Technique, which I've owned since the 1970s.

Mash equal parts butter and flour together in a bowl. The resultant paste is the beurre manié. Bring milk to a boil, reduce to simmer. Grab a gob of the beurre manié and whisk it in. Simmer to cook out the raw flour taste. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg.

Pepin recommends ~1.5T of the beurre manié per cup of milk.

La Technique is an interesting book. I love it for the massive use of photos illustrating all sorts of French techniques. It's eclectic in its coverage: The section on basics goes from how to hold the knife to things like turning mushrooms and making decorative flowers out of black truffles. I'm bad at the mushrooms and have never tried the truffles.

I have actually made the olive rabbits as decorations... those are so easy you could teach kids to do it.
bonfirewillburn
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Beurre manié is traditionally used for "quick bindings" of a sauce. It is for that "oh crap this is too thin" moment.

You run a very large risk of being able to taste the grain if you use it exclusively for a Bechamel. I would caution the use as an entire base. I tend to keep it less than 10% of any sauce

Also I want to add that the butter should be room temp so you can kneed the flour into the butter - then chill it. Same rules apply cold roux into hot liquid or hot roux into cold liquid.

But hey, if it works for you!
HTownAg98
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I went very, very basic on purpose, because that's all that is in the classic mother sauce. Additions are other sauces.

Add mustard for mustard sauce.
Add sweated onions for soubise.
Add cheese for mornay sauce.
Add crawfish for sauce nantua.
bonfirewillburn
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quote:
I went very, very basic on purpose, because that's all that is in the classic mother sauce. Additions are other sauces.



.....minus the unbrowned cooked lean veal(because who has scrap veal these days) - I directly quoted Escoffier - that's why the odd measurements......

but like I said your technique, as usual, is spot on!
biobioprof
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And don't forget the uses of bechamel other than as a sauce you pour over something:
- in casserole-style dishes: lasagna, mac & cheese and moussaka
- as the base for souffles
- as the base for creamy soups
aggiebear69
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And I thought cream gravy made with bacon drippings was one of the major food groups

Good discussion guys-you left out one ingredient....with my 55 + years of making "bechamel" I still believe that making the roux in a cast iron skillet ...even starting with butter - makes for a more consistent and better tasting "sauce" Stainless steel and teflon just do not cut it!
ajn142
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Just did this for the first time for a cream of mushroom soup. Delicious.
HTownAg98
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quote:
Just did this for the first time for a cream of mushroom soup. Delicious.

Beat anything you could get out of a can, didn't it?
straw
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Had no idea I was making a béchamel sauce to make my butter cream icing!
ajn142
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I have good taste buds and a cast iron stomach, as befits any college student. I would have no problem eating the stuff from a can any day of the week. Mine probably wasn't that great, but it was better, and for a first time, it was more than edible.

Of course I have a tendency to get bored in the kitchen and jump head first into any new endeavour because it sounds like fun. Last semester I started a wild strain sourdough culture and started baking bread. Then I got bored and tried puff pastry.
HTownAg98
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How did the puff pastry go?
True Anomaly
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Question- for a local 5-star steakhouse here in Philly, I got the recipe for their creamed spinach- apparently it's just bechamel sauce mixed with the spinach. I swore that when I had it the first time that there was parmesan in it, but was surprised that it was Bechamel only. My question is that is this normal for creamed spinach, or is there usually some proportion of cheese?
HTownAg98
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Normally it doesn't have cheese, but adding a bit of hard cheese like parmesean or romano wouldn't be unheard of.
ajn142
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HTown, the puff was a lot of work, but well worth it. It didn't puff as much as I would have liked, but that's on me. I had it wrapped around some steaks I grilled earlier. I had gotten them to about medium well, first time grilling in a long time, and so I was probably too cautious on the temperature and time.

I took it to a potluck of around 10 people, the only reason I came home with any is someone brought brisket and beans enough to feed all of us. I still only had a bit left.

I'm tailgating with these same friends this weekend, guess who went uncontested for cook duty.

[This message has been edited by ajn142 (edited 9/20/2012 11:33p).]
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