Did some more looking and the rebar was 14" squares and the perimeter beam looks to be about 14"ish centerline from the edge of slab. The structural beams are about 12" centerline from edge of slab. Seems that all but about the outer 2" of beam are above the grade beam. All of the anchor bolts should be into the grade beam based off the rough measurements. Not a structural engineer and don't remember all of Lee Lowry's CVEN class, but the moment on the concrete should be minimal based on location of grade beam and structural beams, correct?

Any feedback civil/structural folks can give based on this info??

One specific question is length of anchor bolts needed? I believe the contractor used 1/2"x6" anchor bolts. Engineered specs called for 1/2" anchors but didn't spec the length required. They were installed after the pour instead of using templates in place before the pour

When he was short concrete, he had a roughly 15'x15'x6" corner that had no concrete. They had the truck there within an hour or so and said they did their best to get a good finish on the area that was poured and firming already…obviously they didn't. I got home from work when they were working on finishing after the extra concrete had already been poured. The contractor explained what happened and said they were going to work it to make sure the whole thing was good with work lights in the dark…his definition of good and mine are completely different

If the beams are that size your structure should be good. From the pictures that structure is a little different than a red iron bolt together as the post are close to the edge of the slabs those. You can sure see the slop on job they did with the topping. It is on the base of the post and all the angle around the edge. I deal with contractors alll the time and the things they think are acceptable is crazy.

tgivaughn said:

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Indeed you have guessed the one.
What a mess.

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I actually framed this house in around 99/2000 but do not recall the slab issue.


Did you draw the plans for it?

I do remember something cracked on the right hand side of foundation where the bonus room was over the garage due to weight and a large beam.

BlueHeeler said:

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Just curious, did you take a look at the pictures before the concrete was poured? Anchor bolting structural steel to flat work is not a normal practice.

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I did not the only photos I see are of the finished work. If there's photos showing no footers or a footing that's a big big deal. I assumed the prep/rebar work was done correctly and this was just a badly mishandled pour.

Struct.eng Prof Coody was in charge of alll things foundation and blew the whistle on the 1st one.
The remainder I designed w/Coody monitoring the framing design.
Coody was a genius, wartime engineer and on his way here, his Dallas firm did the engineering check on the 1st Texas Stadium = not enough support for those moving roof doors to open-close but can re-do designs to make it happen. Orig.eng: "forgetaboutit, we got the money to build, so we'll leave those doors off" = why there was no roof in center.

Other than wrong concrete mix, the only other gremlin was under the island sink ... which reportedly was due to - "too many cooks in the kitchen".

All this insider recall might be better suited for a PM, but I was unable. Maybe in future?

That's a pretty small building in the grand scheme of things. Should failure concerned exist, perhaps the building could be disassembled and Mueller redesign the building using CFB. It won't require near the concrete beef that this one does. It sucks you paid a lot more for this style of building but at this point, I say you either fix the finish on top so it looks nice and just roll the dice that the building is structurally ok, or you have to undo it and go CFB or start completely over. Still will require some minor concrete work for CFB but would be a lot cheaper than rebuilding and you have a better chance of getting a remedy at all. I don't think you'll get anything at all from this guy otherwise.

Personally, looking at the concrete slab before hand, I don't think you're going to have any problem at all other than the finish on top. I know I'm not a structural engineer but I have a shop that has two 8000lb trucks in and out every day and it's nothing more than 5" of concrete poured over 2 3/8" poles that are shoved in the ground with metal slapped on the sides and they've lasted two generations.

My only advice is when it starts to lean, go ahead and push it over because it's going to fall. 1/2 anchors into bad concrete is asking for issues.

agracer said:

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Did they use some creative video editing on that video on facebook? The slab looks nothing like the photos posted here in that video.

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I wonder if it looked fine until they tried to level it. Pictures taken with flashlight side illuminated make things look way worse than they are. There isn't a concrete slab that doesn't look Ike the surface of the moon when its side illuminated at night.

That might not be true here but hard to say.

Wrong assumption.

BrazosDog02 said:

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agracer said:

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Did they use some creative video editing on that video on facebook? The slab looks nothing like the photos posted here in that video.

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I wonder if it looked fine until they tried to level it. Pictures taken with flashlight side illuminated make things look way worse than they are. There isn't a concrete slab that doesn't look Ike the surface of the moon when its side illuminated at night.

That might not be true here but hard to say.

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I can say with certainty that is false. The slab my mobile home was set on had a 1-inch slope over the 32-ft width, which was intentional so any under house water leaks would drain to the front of the home to be easily spotted. When I check the house foundation at night, I had no shadows over a 64-ft span. I was impressed as hell with it.

Hindsight 20-20 but I should have had that concrete contractor do my shop foundation too. He was about 25% more than the shmuck I went with...seemed like a hell of a deal until now.

I had deviations of 1/2" over 6 feet on my shop floor and immediate elevation changes of ~1/4" over about 2" wide strips running damn near the 40-ft width in some places. You can see the original slab in the OP in the night pictures. I had multiple concrete guys come look at it and sent pictures to a handful of others in the area, as well as post them here. The consensus from all was the foundation was one of the worst finish jobs most had ever seen--both pre- and post-"leveling"

agracer said:

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Did they use some creative video editing on that video on facebook? The slab looks nothing like the photos posted here in that video.

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The guy only used photos taken from elevation and didn't share any of his attempt to level it. He never bothered to show up and actually put his eyes on the job once his guys finished the ****ting self-leveler job...refused to come look at it on multiple occasions.

After the initial pour, he acknowledged the slab wasn't up to his expectations with the hill and valley issues, agreeing to fix it at that time. He knows he left me with a screwed-up job but apparently doesn't care about his reputation enough to leave me with this

Whoop Delecto said:

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Structure is in a Tier 1 coastal county. Windstorm engineered design of the foundation is required. Pre and post concrete placement inspections are also required to get WPI8.

To get a WPI-8 Certificate of Compliance, the foundation must be built to resist uplift and wind loads (engineer-stamped foundation plans required). No WPI-8 = No Windstorm Insurance from TWIA.

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I'm in De Witt county. It is not a Tier 1 county. Had no issues getting windstorm insurance for my manufactured home without the engineered foundation