I've got a really weird looking (front) yard and I have no idea how it got that way. For starters, no trees, and roughly half of it is bermuda. The other is, well, weeds. It was a different shade of what I thought was bermuda (along with weeds), but last spring started to thin out and after putting fertilizer with weed killer on it, whatever so-called grass was left died. That wasn't a bad thing because it had an underlayment of thatch. Either the fertilizer I used, or the homemade concoction (beer/cola/soap/ammonia/...), or both wiped out the thatch. Unfortunately, even with an overspray of weed killer, most of the weeds remain, but have been held in check. What I ended up last season with, for the most part, was half a lawn of decent to actually good bermudagrass and the other half dirt and weeds.

I had planned on putting down a preemergent early this spring, but with a warm February and a lot of rain, I didn't get to it in time. The weeds sprouted up like a 50 man construction crew was building a backyard shed. I mowed for the first time the other day and the spot weeds in the "good" part of the lawn are there, but I think with some care and more of the concoction from above, I can kill those off.

After watching a lot of youtube lawn care videos over the winter, this guy, GCI Turf, has convinced me to go full Roundup on the bad part of the yard. There isn't any grass to speak of anyway, and even if there was, so what?

My question: has anyone done this? I plan to spay tomorrow and, if necessary middle of next week. Then, next weekend (or the next) hopefully, I'll be able to get out there with a spade fork and till up some of the dirt. After that, spread good bermudaseed, a little topsoil, and water like crazy.

Comments welcome.

First, shame on you for posting an interesting thread after drinking time on a Friday.

I have no experience nuking a lawn with roundup. However...

I had an area of my lawn where, for whatever reason, the weeds would grow but the grass wouldn't. My daughter decided to create a dry stream planting area in that location. She pulled up all the weeds, sloped the ground, and sourced plants, rocks, and materials from Nextdoor to make it.

It turned out very nice, even through drought and heavy rains. The bonus was it didn't require very much maintenance.

Long story short: Figure out why the grass won't grow there and maybe go with some other landscaping. Stop fighting and try working with what will grow there.

I nuked an entire side yard 10 years ago when I bought my house. Previous owner had not watered/cared for that side of the house. Sprayed it twice 10 days apart and then left it to die for 3 weeks. Then cut/bagged it at the lowest mower setting possible. Brought in about 2" topsoil and resodded with St. Augustine. Today, it's still the best looking part of my entire property.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, just make sure you do it right by giving it enough time and bringing in quality yard mix/soil. And make sure your formulation is just the glyphosate, and not a residual herbicide that will hang around to kill your new grass.

I don't know where you are, but you may be running out of time to do this if any of your desirable grasses are greening up.

I know some the acreage I lease to a hay farmer gets nuked with roundup (usually in late February) to kill any winter weeds and some ryegrass in order to not compete with the coastal bermuda and native grasses, which are still dormant at the time.

This guy does this damn near every year and grows some great hay, but he also fertilizes it regularly.

I took a page from his playbook this year and sprayed all the green stuff in my yard back in February. All the junk died and now the St. Augustine is coming out. So far, so good.

Post up where you are located.

Sure you want bermuda? I don't care, but many people don't like it. The predmergent you put down in the spring is to help with fall weeds. And the fall application is for spring weeds. Most weed killers only kill a certain selection of weeds, so you might have to do some weed id to get the right stuff. Unless you are sold on nuking it, then it doesn't matter. Maybe post up some pics.

Milwaukees Best Light said:

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Post up where you are located.

Sure you want bermuda? I don't care, but many people don't like it. The predmergent you put down in the spring is to help with fall weeds. And the fall application is for spring weeds. Most weed killers only kill a certain selection of weeds, so you might have to do some weed id to get the right stuff. Unless you are sold on nuking it, then it doesn't matter. Maybe post up some pics.

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DFW. I think I'm done with trying to be specific on killing weeds. Too precise.

What I'm learning is the best way to prevent weeds is to have good grass. That was the case before my yard went to hell (I used to take care of it and it was fine -- then turned the mowing over to a lawn service, and its been downhill pretty much since). And yes, I want Bermudagrass. Not common so much, but some of the better offerings. I killed off what was in there (a St. Augustine mix) a decade ago and put seed down. There are no trees so it gets as much sun as possible. I think the area I'm concentrating on now didn't get much seed and there was a mixture of the old grass and some new grass. When it got heavily stressed 2 summers ago, the weeds started taking over.

I sprayed the first "round" of RU this afternoon. I have two bottles of the RTU stuff. I think next time, I'm going to get the generic concentrate and mix it. I wish I had done that, but I'd already bought RU, so I didn't bother taking it back. If I'm not happy with how the first bottle went, I may take the second one (unused) back next week and get the concentrate.

I took a pic tonight but it was too dark. I'll try and get one tomorrow before any real results. One thing on what I called the concoction: it really did eliminate the thatch. The area I didn't spray still has thatch. So if you have thatch in your yard and want the recipe, let me know. No need to rent or buy that dethatcher. Just let chemistry (or is it biology??) go to work.

Highly recommend it when the problem area is large. I did it in the backyard of a new (to us) house about 10 years ago. I was never going to win the battle against the amount of dallisgrass that the previous owner let take over. I nuked twice a few weeks apart, raked (including with a heavy rock rake that really scored up the surface), and sodded. Did not till - it creates air pockets that will dry out the new sod faster and uneven settling.

Then keep it fertilized and healthy, and to the point above, you'll have no issues.

As long as your yard gets plenty of sun, I favor bermuda because it is so tolerant of the extremes our Texas climate can have - handles the cold while being very heat/drought tolerant

OP I have done big patches of my yard like this twice. It works great. My process is to spray, then till, add some organic matter/soil amendments, till again, level, generously spread seed and starter fertilizer, add a little bit more top soil and just agitate things gently with a rake to enhance seed/soil contact, then water a bunch (depending on time of year) to keep things moist.

General thought is that it's too early for bermudagrass planting by seed- should wait another month or so. You might still be successful but keep it in mind.

I plan to do many more parts of my yard like this early May. I too get my products from GCI turf

Roundup goes into the soil and you won't be able to replant for awhile. Use just Glyphosate (per neil sperry)

Quote:

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Roundup goes into the soil and you won't be able to replant for awhile. Use just Glyphosate

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We've nuked dozens of yards over the years with RoundUp & never had any issues.
1. Nuke yard.
2. 4-5 days later hit the spots you missed as necessary for full kill.
3. Weedeat & rake dead material away.
4. Topdress with compost blend to level out bad spots.
5. Adjust sprinklers.
6. Install sod & roll.
7. Water yard while you standby drinking beer admiring your green paradise.

https://randylemmon.com/lawns/kill-till-fill-sod/

Basically the same as we do, with the exception of tilling vs weed eating.

We weed eat in the Hill Country because tilling typically just churns up rock

Should also add, if you don't have a sprinkler system, this would be a good time to have one installed.

Anyone seeded Bermuda? Have a similar issue but I'd like to seed if at all possible.

Well, this sucks.

Apparently, I used the wrong stuff. I ordered RU from Walmart -- home delivery. I thought I was ordering the original stuff. I knew it was the ready to use -- like I said above, had I waited a day, I would have gotten the generic glyphosate. It appears either the RU I got doesn't have glyphosate or for whatever reason, is just not working. My weeds are just as green, if not more so, and there has been no grass kill that I can tell, in 48 hours. I've already contacted Roundup for a refund. Screw them. I don't have time to mess around.

Going to head to Tractor Supply tomorrow for the generic, concentrated glyphosate and spray from a pump sprayer. I think that will get better coverage, anyway.

I've read they switched the retail RTU formula to a different herbicide due to the litigation. You can get it from concentrate (red label) in it's original formula.

This is what I meant. Hard to find the original

Add a drop or two of dish soap as a surfactant

If it's only been 48 hours, give it some more time. Glyphosate is slow acting, especially in cool weather.

Edit: I just looked at Roundup website. It is likely you didn't apply glyphosate.

How does this nuking of the yard affect trees?

As an alternative to "nuking" your whole yard - and I realize I am a little late with this - I would first consider killing all weeds. This is easy enough to do - get a premixed bottle of Weed-B-Gone that attaches to your hose from the big box store and treat, mow a couple days later and treat again 10-14 days later. This will take care of your broadleaf weeds. See what you have left. If you have a lot of grassy weeds - chances are this time of year they are winter annuals and will die when it gets hot. If not, get a herbicide for grassy weeds and follow what you did for the broadleafs. The herbicide you use will depend on the type of weeds you have.
After you have all the weeds killed and temperatures get to the magic number of 150 (night-time low + day-time high = 150) on a consistent basis start fertilizing and mowing. You will be surprised by how much grass you probably have and how fast it will fill back in.
This will not get you instant gratification, but will save you a lot of money and provide the satisfaction of re-growing your yard.

Agree. Nuking it would be my last resort. Weeds look ok when they're mowed. Just work on weed control and wait for heat to really get the grass to start choking out weeds.

TMfrisco said:

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As an alternative to "nuking" your whole yard - and I realize I am a little late with this - I would first consider killing all weeds. This is easy enough to do - get a premixed bottle of Weed-B-Gone that attaches to your hose from the big box store and treat, mow a couple days later and treat again 10-14 days later. This will take care of your broadleaf weeds. See what you have left. If you have a lot of grassy weeds - chances are this time of year they are winter annuals and will die when it gets hot. If not, get a herbicide for grassy weeds and follow what you did for the broadleafs. The herbicide you use will depend on the type of weeds you have.
After you have all the weeds killed and temperatures get to the magic number of 150 (night-time low + day-time high = 150) on a consistent basis start fertilizing and mowing. You will be surprised by how much grass you probably have and how fast it will fill back in.
This will not get you instant gratification, but will save you a lot of money and provide the satisfaction of re-growing your yard.

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You're right about a lot of this in the area of the yard where the grass is decent but in the area where it is all weeds, I don't have much of an option other than to pull the weeds by hand. There's nothing there. No grass, just other weeds. I can see plain dirt right now. before, it was covered in weeds and underneath that, thatch. I think I got rid of the thatch with the bio concoction I mentioned above. The reason I think this is there is still some thatch in the areas I didn't spray the concoction -- mostly the side yard.

I now have the glyphosate (along with surfactant) from Tractor Supply and will be applying that this weekend.

91AggieLawyer said:

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TMfrisco said:

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As an alternative to "nuking" your whole yard - and I realize I am a little late with this - I would first consider killing all weeds. This is easy enough to do - get a premixed bottle of Weed-B-Gone that attaches to your hose from the big box store and treat, mow a couple days later and treat again 10-14 days later. This will take care of your broadleaf weeds. See what you have left. If you have a lot of grassy weeds - chances are this time of year they are winter annuals and will die when it gets hot. If not, get a herbicide for grassy weeds and follow what you did for the broadleafs. The herbicide you use will depend on the type of weeds you have.
After you have all the weeds killed and temperatures get to the magic number of 150 (night-time low + day-time high = 150) on a consistent basis start fertilizing and mowing. You will be surprised by how much grass you probably have and how fast it will fill back in.
This will not get you instant gratification, but will save you a lot of money and provide the satisfaction of re-growing your yard.

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You're right about a lot of this in the area of the yard where the grass is decent but in the area where it is all weeds, I don't have much of an option other than to pull the weeds by hand. There's nothing there. No grass, just other weeds. I can see plain dirt right now. before, it was covered in weeds and underneath that, thatch. I think I got rid of the thatch with the bio concoction I mentioned above. The reason I think this is there is still some thatch in the areas I didn't spray the concoction -- mostly the side yard.

I now have the glyphosate (along with surfactant) from Tractor Supply and will be applying that this weekend.

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How did your concoction wipe out the thatch? Have a formal recipe for it?

Chase said:

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91AggieLawyer said:

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TMfrisco said:

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As an alternative to "nuking" your whole yard - and I realize I am a little late with this - I would first consider killing all weeds. This is easy enough to do - get a premixed bottle of Weed-B-Gone that attaches to your hose from the big box store and treat, mow a couple days later and treat again 10-14 days later. This will take care of your broadleaf weeds. See what you have left. If you have a lot of grassy weeds - chances are this time of year they are winter annuals and will die when it gets hot. If not, get a herbicide for grassy weeds and follow what you did for the broadleafs. The herbicide you use will depend on the type of weeds you have.
After you have all the weeds killed and temperatures get to the magic number of 150 (night-time low + day-time high = 150) on a consistent basis start fertilizing and mowing. You will be surprised by how much grass you probably have and how fast it will fill back in.
This will not get you instant gratification, but will save you a lot of money and provide the satisfaction of re-growing your yard.

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You're right about a lot of this in the area of the yard where the grass is decent but in the area where it is all weeds, I don't have much of an option other than to pull the weeds by hand. There's nothing there. No grass, just other weeds. I can see plain dirt right now. before, it was covered in weeds and underneath that, thatch. I think I got rid of the thatch with the bio concoction I mentioned above. The reason I think this is there is still some thatch in the areas I didn't spray the concoction -- mostly the side yard.

I now have the glyphosate (along with surfactant) from Tractor Supply and will be applying that this weekend.

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How did your concoction wipe out the thatch? Have a formal recipe for it?

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While I can't actually prove it did, I put the stuff on and within weeks, the thatch was gone and the grass I had was greener. The areas I didn't spray, the thatch still exists. Draw your own conclusion. As far as HOW, I can't explain for sure, but I was told it added microorganisms to the lawn that "ate" the thatch.

As far as a recipe, I don't remember exact amounts. It is a modified Jerry Baker recipe. I've found many sites online that try and debunk this -- and I'm not going to argue with the science -- but it seemed to work for me. Until it stops working, I'm going to use it.

Here it is:

-- one beer
-- one cup of cola (get the cheap stuff)
-- half a cup of baby shampoo (make sure it is not anti-bacterial)
-- cup of ammonia
-- small bottle of plant food if you can find it; if not, put in a small amount of a liquid 0-10-10 concentrate plant food or dry water soluble plant food; you're trying to up the potassium level here.

gabehcoud said:

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Roundup goes into the soil and you won't be able to replant for awhile. Use just Glyphosate (per neil sperry)

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No. You must have misunderstood, or someone used Roundup Extend.

Minor update: I FINALLY got the glyphosate down this afternoon. Couldn't get it down last weekend due to Easter and other things. Hopefully, we'll see some results by mid-week. We're headed for rain early this next week so if I need another application, I'll try to get it either early Thursday or Friday.

It says 2 weeks for everything to die. I wish it were sooner.

4 days later -- NO visible results. How long does it take this stuff to start showing any effects?

91AggieLawyer said:

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4 days later -- NO visible results. How long does it take this stuff to start showing any effects?

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Cooler temps = longer time.

I sprayed back in February and it was two weeks before I saw anything visible. But, by the end of week 3, the fat lady had sung on that vegetation.

And, I assume the glyphosate concentrate you bought already had the surfactant in it? I know most of the 41% concentrates do.

Shouldn't take that long. Did the rain wash it off right after application? Ideally it needs to be thoroughly applied to all growth and allowed to "bake" in the sun a bit.

I applied it later in the day but it was sunny the next day. I'm going to put a second batch down early tomorrow.

I saw what looked like some minor results Saturday (2 days ago) and today, it looks like the area with the grassy weeds are definitely dead or dying. The thicker weeds (crabgrass, etc.) that are in the dirt area aren't looking as bad yet. So my application 9 or so days ago DID have results.

Interested to see how this ended up? I would like to do 8,000 square feet ( my front yard) this year if I still have time.

Residding my front yard and the guys used spectracide (I think)… it's dead dead