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Attic Remodel where to start?

3,510 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by SweaterVest
aaronag02
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We're considering adding an extra room in the attic space above the vaulted ceiling of our living room. It would require moving/redoing roof support and most likely shoring up the support beams. For this type of project would it be best to talk to a structure engineer or a general contractor first?
Kenneth_2003
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Certainly an engineer or your architect might have one they can bring in.

Oh and in terms of cost... Just move
cena05
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Following as I would like to do the same in the future.
beatlesphan
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Having just done a big remodel, I think you will need to start with an architect, then structural engineer, then GC (possibly get the GC concurrently with talking to the engineer). But start with architect. If you're in DFW I have a good one I can recommend.
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tgivaughn
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"above the vaulted ceiling" = YIKES
too bad there's not ground space for this room @ a fraction of the costs
Best of luck
Agree with the wise
beatlesphan 100%
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
sts7049
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start by coming up with a new plan to add space
AgLA06
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Kenneth_2003 said:



Oh and in terms of cost... Just move


Someone hasn't calculated the difference in 2.5% and 7% interest rates.
htxag09
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We are looking at an attic conversion but a much more basic one. Roughly half our second floor is fully decked attic space. Largest part of this job would be adding dormers, raising the roof to allow windows for code.

We've talked to several people, some builders have the staff to do it all. But seems the best way to go is with an architect. They usually have the engineers needed on staff. Architect will do drawings then you can use those drawings to send to contractors for quotes.
htxag09
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AgLA06 said:

Kenneth_2003 said:



Oh and in terms of cost... Just move


Someone hasn't calculated the difference in 2.5% and 7% interest rates.

Rates are only one part of the puzzle. I'd be shocked if something like this isn't well north of $100k.

Unless this is a dream home location or some other intangible, numbers will probably make more sense to move.
AgLA06
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If I moved and bought another house for the same price I sold, it adds $400k to my mortgage just in interest rates before realtor/ underwriting fees.

So no. It would make absolutely no sense to just buy another house.
htxag09
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AgLA06 said:

If I moved and bought another house for the same price I sold, it adds $400k to my mortgage just in interest rates before realtor/ underwriting fees.

So no. It would make absolutely no sense to just buy another house.

You're assuming you'll never be able to refinance. You're also assuming OP locked in at the absolute lowest rate possible but will now be buying a house at the highest rates in the market. Just had a friend go under contract on a house and the seller bought down the rate to 5%.

But again, just one piece. How are you paying for a likely $150k renovation? Cash? If not, the rate on however you get that money will be higher than mortgage rates.

Then look at resell. Likely spending $150k for maybe a $50k return, probably less.

And timing, hassle, etc….house will probably be unlivable and will have find somewhere else for 6+ months….
AgLA06
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Funny how your assumptions only go one way.

Have a good day.
SweaterVest
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We did this as part of a larger remodel. It wasn't over a vaulted ceiling, just a regular 8' ceiling. I can't remember the exact size since we sold the house a couple of years ago, but I think the room it was around 13'x20' and included a walk in closet and a regular closet and some built ins. We didn't have to raise the roof but did add a dormer. Our attic had 2x6 joists and hosted hvac and water heater, which both had to be moved to a different location in the attic. Joists had to to be replaced with 2x12, which also meant all of the sheet rock ceiling below had to be replaced as well. We already had a walk in door to the attic from a second floor landing, so adding a short hallway to the new room wasn't super complicated other than the floor level between the landing and new room/hallway were about 1/2" different.

I don't remember the cost of adding the room, but it was easily the most value add part of our reno. All in we spent around $125k and that included doing two complete bathrooms, flooring and shower in 1 bathroom, partial kitchen reno, sand and refinish wood flooring and replace kitchen flooring with matching wood, full interior repaint, new hvac, replacement of all recessed lighting, new interior and exterior doors, all new siding, roof, and gutters, and a good deal of framing work. Also had to add a couple of beams to facilitate the new room and remove a couple of walls in the downstairs. I'm sure there were a few other things that I can't recall.

The room addition couldn't have added more than $30k to the cost if that, but that was likely due to all of the other work we were already doing. The new room easily added more value than anything else we did, but that said, it probably wouldn't have been as cost effective if it was the only thing we did.

eta: We had a structural engineer look at the foundation first because it was a 75 year old house that had already had a foundation addition and we wanted to make sure it was capable of supporting what we wanted to do. After that we got rough quotes from 2 GCs and and after we picked one, had an architect draw everything up to get a more final quote. Some would say start with an architect, but we found having the GC weigh in on how the design would impact cost helped a lot with making sure the architect didn't draw something up that was beautiful, but ridiculously expensive to build.
htxag09
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Curious when and where you did this...

As I said, ours seems much more straightforward. Half the second floor is fully decked attic, already has 2x12 joists, etc. We will have to raise the roof or add dormers to allow for windows to get to code.

We went through some builders first and cheapest quote we got was $50k. Now we're going the architecture/engineer route then bid out those plans. The architect alone is $7k, though....
AgLA06
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You're going to need at least as structural sign off to get your permit regardless to verify existing meets code and will support the added work. Your contractor if quoting this without drawings should have a drafter / architect they work with or on staff to put together the construction drawings.

Architect is not necessarily needed if you have a good understanding of how the roof line changes will look and impact the rest of the house. If you're okay with a square addition, then maybe not worth the extra 15%-20%. If you want it to look a little nicer and appear as if it was part of the original build (resale value), maybe an architect is worth the money if the builder doesn't have a talented one on staff.

Then there are the other things that a good architect can help you plan and ensure are in the drawings in places that make sense (outlets, lighting, works with desired furniture layouts, etc.). A good contractor will have these on staff or as partnerships as well. My experience is those contractor driven drawings tend to be more basic / necessity instead of what really works with the homeowner's expectations and style of living.
Leggo My Elko
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Start with Architect / Engineer - then Contractor. If you live in one of the big cities, there should be all sorts in niche firms, find one the does that type of work. Designing something functional and structural into an existing space like you are describing is no small feat. Then find a contractor who can execute the design and plans. Understand it will take way longer and cost way and be way more complicated than what you initially think.

Also and here is the most important thing. Don't be in a hurry to start, get the designs and specifics all set. Finalize every element BEFORE the contractor starts and DON'T make changes once work begins. Nothing can gum up a project and lead to mistakes and issues like work order changes mid project. There's so many layers of communication (including sub-contractors who are generally horrible communicators) and changes have cascading effects, what on the surface seems simple, often is not simple at all.

Good luck, some have asked if there is an area of the home/lot that a traditional room addition on the ground story would work. If there is, I'd heavily look at that option first. You'll get more bang for your buck.
HumpitPuryear
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I would start with a GC actually just to get an opinion about whether what you're trying to do is even feasible. You are going to lose headroom when you go to larger floor joists. You are clearing out roof supports which will need to be replaced with some other means of carrying that load. That may take away some headroom as well. A decent GC can also give you some idea of what is likely to be required downstairs
SweaterVest
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htxag09 said:

Curious when and where you did this...

As I said, ours seems much more straightforward. Half the second floor is fully decked attic, already has 2x12 joists, etc. We will have to raise the roof or add dormers to allow for windows to get to code.

We went through some builders first and cheapest quote we got was $50k. Now we're going the architecture/engineer route then bid out those plans. The architect alone is $7k, though....


Garden Oaks in Houston. We started the process in late 2019 but didn't get started building until early 2020. I think we paid about half that for the architect but I don't remember exactly.
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