I am re-siding the house and came across a problem. While demoing the three layers of old siding, contractor found that the 2" metal wire conduit downstream of meter and exterior panel that feeds all wire into the attic of the house terminated where it entered the old siding. It was not terminated into a box of any kind or apparently substantially anchored in any way. With the additional layers of siding removed and Hardie plank installed, there's a several inch gap between the end of the conduit and where wire enters the house.

It is my understanding that per code, conduit must always terminate at a box or enclosure. Is this required, and if so, what does this box look like?

Is there any solution that doesn't involve disconnecting all wires from the panel and fishing them back through an extension to be added to the end of the existing conduit? Is there a 2-piece conduit extension that can be fitted over the wires and onto the end of the existing conduit? Other code compliant solution?

I'll try to upload a photo tomorrow.

Conduit isn't necessarily required to terminate in a box, but hard to say based on your description if this applies.

Essentially, if the conduit is only there for physical protection or support, and the cable is listed to be supported by other means after it leaves the conduit, it's OK, but needs a fitting for anti-abrasion where it leaves the conduit.

Pics

Holy conduit fill Batman!

Can you see any markings on the wire to see if it's SE cable?

Is that conduit actually vertical on the up/down run? It kinda looks like it might have been pulled out of the wall a bit when they put that new panel in? If so, it could be rotated to push into the wall again.

Everything in there looks to be Romex, could be some SER based on the age. Technically it's not supposed to be bundled up like that, but its seems to be done all the time in residential...

No matter what, something needs to be done to get it sealed back in to the attic but it does not technically have to terminate in a box. It is supposed to have some sort of abrasion relief on the end as mentioned.

Also, Do you still have aluminum wiring (looks like it based on the Romex sheathing)?

UnderoosAg said:

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Holy conduit fill Batman!

Can you see any markings on the wire to see if it's SE cable?

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I'll try to get eyes on this tonight.

Caliber said:

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Is that conduit actually vertical on the up/down run? It kinda looks like it might have been pulled out of the wall a bit when they put that new panel in? If so, it could be rotated to push into the wall again.

Everything in there looks to be Romex, could be some SER based on the age. Technically it's not supposed to be bundled up like that, but its seems to be done all the time in residential...

No matter what, something needs to be done to get it sealed back in to the attic but it does not technically have to terminate in a box. It is supposed to have some sort of abrasion relief on the end as mentioned.

Also, Do you still have aluminum wiring (looks like it based on the Romex sheathing)?

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It is completely perpendicular. I tried pushing it in by hand...it could maybe be clamped into place, but it would be bending the conduit (and maybe the framing) to do it.

I do not believe there is any aluminum currently in use. There was an older/smaller conduit section that was capped off, I assume this was originally aluminum. I had the Zinsco panel replaced last year.

Is there any kind of two-piece conduit extension/fitting that could be added on and that provides or would accommodate abrasion relief? Maybe something along the lines of this?

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Appleton-Scc-200-2-In-Split-Cond-Coupling/230033?gclid=CjwKCAjwkLCkBhA9EiwAka9QRgpXJi717K_VpfTgL5M-4AAcc9YdfHnzjjqPnF1A5Hf7lbt_60crKhoCQ1AQAvD_BwE

https://www.grainger.com/product/STI-Split-Sleeve-Kit-Round-1FEU2?opr=PDPRRDSP&analytics=dsrrItems_1FEU3

I would put a clamp on the wall to the conduit and tighten away.

The biggest issue I see with the Grainger product is it's not really listed as a raceway, and it won't connect well with the threaded coupling.

I think a better option would be some of the good clamshell PVC products listed as raceway, but I think it might be hard to find a good split fitting to transition from threaded metal to PVC. Example (Sunlight Resistant)

This actually may be the best example I could find that has a split threaded connection, but I bet it's pricey. - Split Steel Conduit

ETA - honestly, the coupling might be long enough at 3.5" as it is.

The contractor painted over the Romex while I was at work, so won't be able to see cable markings without crawling into attic/oven.