For snails/slugs, put a bowl full of beer in the garden, they will drown themselves in it.

I had aerification done last Monday, 2 weeks after DiseaseX application. The next day was top dressing, and now we have gotten a good sequence of days with rain. Things are starting to grow in real nice and fill gaps. After the rain going to DiseaseX again.

Is it too hot now to apply Bonide Sedge Ender (Houston/St. Augustine)? The label doesnt say anything about temps. I have nutsedge and kyllinga popping up for the first time in two years. I did apply a pre-emergent back in February. I also just fertilized and put out ironite this last week after the rains.

atmtws said:

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Is it too hot now to apply Bonide Sedge Ender (Houston/St. Augustine)? The label doesnt say anything about temps. I have nutsedge and kyllinga popping up for the first time in two years. I did apply a pre-emergent back in February. I also just fertilized and put out ironite this last week after the rains.

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I don't know about Bonide's version, but I've been using sedgehammer with zero ill effects.

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two rounds of DiseaseEx, aerification and top dressing done a few weeks ago. Lawn coming in great, but this spot is starting to show yellowing already. Other major dead spots the runners are filling in pretty good.

If I'm not mistaken, Disease-Ex calls for two applications. I know I'm about to touch up a couple spots myself.

I've heard just keep applying it until the problem goes away. Lots of folks in my hood doing the peat moss thing

This just reminded me to re-apply disease X. I'll do the peat moss thing again soon, too. Did it late last summer.

My neighborhood is 95% St. Augustine and almost every yard looks lush and full but also has that fluorescent yellow TARR look. Not sure if I just never noticed that in years past or if it's just gotten so much more prevalent.

More like people keep applying whatever they're doing and nature making it go away. Azoxy, peat moss…nothing works in my experience other than it just going away on its own. At least in St. Augustine. I've seen it gone in a week in zoysia.

I think it is gone, except for this one spot where i see yellowing. I don't see yellowing on the other spots that were dead, and the growth seems to be happening there.

CapCity12thMan said:

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I think it is gone, except for this one spot where i see yellowing. I don't see yellowing on the other spots that were dead, and the growth seems to be happening there.

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Yellow can also be a symptom of low nitrogen

https://www.nola.com/entertainment_life/home_garden/whats-causing-st-augustine-grass-to-yellow/article_9bf3417f-7f1f-5ffd-9c30-c6f279543683.html#:~:text=ANSWER%3A%20This%20yellowing%20is%20likely,like%20nitrogen%20from%20the%20soil.

What do you think is going on with my yard? I had a problem earlier this year with root rot and Disease-X took care of it, but I'm not sure what this is. Almost looks like it got sprayed with Roundup, but I hadn't sprayed anything in this part of the yard.

I would start checking for Chinch bugs; right next to sidewalk is typical of where I see them start. They killed lots of yards last year in my area. About time for them to start again.

Yep. Chinch. I'm about to go spray.

I plan on using Bifenthrin and Zeta-Cypermethrin, which is what I use to spray around my foundation and doors/windows. Is that sufficient to take care of chinch bugs, or is there another insecticide that I need to use?

That is good to spray with but make sure you spray again in about 14 days to get any of the ones who just hatched. You will need to spray a third time with a different product to make sure they are not immune to it. The life cycle must be stopped for control.

We've had nothing but 110 deg heat in Austin…can I put disease X down

Disease X is for fungal control at these temperatures fungal disease is not an issue. Chinch bugs, sodweb worms and their ilk are going to cause the damage to lawns. Start spraying a good insecticide for the rest of the summer on a regular basis. You have to break the life cycle to stop and prevent the damage.

Reason I ask is because the bad spots are getting worse (that being those that I determined were TARR or some fungus). I thought jn this heat fungus would
Not survive so maybe it is an insect thing

I won't hurt to put down Scotts Disease Ex, but I agree, with the heat we've had in central Texas, I wouldn't think it would be fungus.

So i have what looks to be gray leaf spot, but the consensus here is that fungus should not be the issue with the heat we have been having?

I heard a guy on Home Show Radio this past Saturday that said he hasn't watered his yard since 2011 and his St. Augustine is always great. He went on about how St. Augustine is a hybrid from Africa(?) that can survive on a few inches of water a year and another grass that can withstand the humidity. He said the key is to get the deepest roots possible and that most yards have crap root systems for whatever reason.

I have no idea if he is correct, but I thought it was interesting and wish I could have heard the whole interview. He went on and on about all the things (fertilizers and pesticides) that we put in the yard that destroy the soil conditions.

Gray leaf spot can began to show up this time of year. It is caused by using a high nitrogen fertlizer and by improper watering. There are a number of fungicides that will stop it on the market.

rancher1953 said:

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Gray leaf spot can began to show up this time of year. It is caused by using a high nitrogen fertlizer and by improper watering. There are a number of fungicides that will stop it on the market.

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Like watering in the evening or middle of the night, correct?