Just moved into a new house, are these strike plates/lips done incorrectly?
The door's latch hits/grazes the trim when you close the door.
Should an "extended" lip have been used? It's EVERY single door, so maybe this is "normal"?
The house is only a couple of weeks old and already paint is chipping off most of the doors' trim.
This can't be right! Fixin to go to the model home and see how they did those doors.

That strike looks installed correctly to me. However, the latch bolt is obviously striking the frame. That leads me to believe that the door/frame and or hardware are incorrectly installed. What does the gap look like between the door and frame when it's closed? Is it even on both the strike and hinge side?

Since it's every door, I'm wondering if it is a hardware issue. I'm not positive, but I think you can adjust the amount that the latch bolt extends from the door on some types of hardware and it can be shortened.

Are the hinges mortised (recessed to sit flush with wood)? Other than a bad adjustment on latch bolt (if you can adjust), then you have an issue. Its even hitting paint on the door jam, no?

Good idea to go walk model. Hold builder to a high standard. You will get the most out of them during year 1 and certainly while they are actively selling in your neighborhood.

Yes the hinges are mortised.
And the doors seem to be all fitted correctly/centered in the frame.

I am thinking the builder should have used an extended lip for the strike plate?

I stopped by our model home and it has the same issue.
I stopped by another model home in a different section of the same development (larger lots), and its doors did not seem to have the same type of trim surrounding the door frame.. their latches did not touch the wood/trim.


Here is another pic of my situation. Is this an acceptable install? I would think no way, since the latch brushes against the wood trim every time the doors are shut. Gradually the trip is going to get beat up... the paint is already coming off on some doors (after only a few open/closes.:

[img]https://texags.com/forums/61/topics/3194137/replies/[/img]

looking at my door now...the gap is about the same, and the latch sticks way beyond the strike plate, and would indeed hit the wood trim, BUT:

The curve on the strike plate extends past the corder of the trim to protect it. The latch hits the strike plate first. If the strike plate was further in the jamb, it would definitely hit the trim.

How thick is the trim it is hitting from the wall? Mine is ~ 1/4". I think your problem is the thickness of the trim.

Can you get a picture with the door closed and fulle door in picture frame?

A true 3/4" trim will always hit the latch. Regular door casing is smaller thickness and tapered to prevent Thai issue

I'd take a good chisel and notch the trim, prime, and paint.

You really won't see the notch like you do the grime.

Search for an "extended lip strike plate"
That should fix the problem.

Looks like a winner to me


https://www.doorhardwarecenter.com/kwikset-83536-extended-full-lip-strike-1-875-x-2-25-inch/83536-690/?msclkid=086b43b08a2018b38eb423cf03afb153&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2%2520-%2520Generic%2520-%2520All%2520products&utm_term=4581939835659312&utm_content=Parts%2520-%2520all

As mentioned in my OP.

Just confirming that you were right to begin with.

just joking around.


OK here is a close-up of the strike plate and a pic of the full door.

The trim is 3.5" x 5/8" thick.

Seems to me they should have used an extended lip to cover the corner corner of the trim?

Going to bring it up to the construction manager and see what he says, but their model has the same issue.

Door is not level.

Meaning it's not hung level.

Look at gap at bottom and gap at top, along the wall with the jam.

Door looks level to me, but the floor looks uneven. Is this door upstairs?