You're right. I didn't check code on the winders. I'll redraw them with the 6" min inside edge. Won't change the layout much. I'll post the elevation views this evening when I get a minute

here are the elevations in parallel projection:
front

east side

rear

west side


and some winders that are to code:

here's the rear elevation with the garage hidden so the whole house is visible

Can you cut some sections of the 3D model and post for sketching?

1. Thru the Stairs, looking west.
2. Thru the Living Room, looking north.

Are you planning for a storage area beneath the stairs? Either accessed from outside or from the master bedroom? Just curious. Or is there some reason this wouldn't be possible beside just not wanting it?

Probably could place a door in the Master Suite or at least some built in shelving. The rest would be full of framing more than likely.

wow, didn't even realize this was a thing i could do in sketchup. but here ya go. this is a cool tool. I've posted a parallel projection and a perspective version of each of these slices.





just a note, that lower sloped rafter on the front for the kickout section of the roof over the window bump out should actually stop in line with the rest of the rafters, it doesnt continue out into the attic like this shows.

jpd301 said:

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Are you planning for a storage area beneath the stairs? Either accessed from outside or from the master bedroom? Just curious. Or is there some reason this wouldn't be possible beside just not wanting it?

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i was thinking to try to frame a door on the back side to make it an closet for all the outdoor junk my kids have. Pablo is right though for sure, wont be a ton of space with the framing needed to support the stairs.

Revised Kitchen Layout & Possible Furniture Layout @ Living Room...


Second Floor...


Here is a composite of both floors...


A couple of thoughts:
1. Will have to relocate HVAC air handler and add a new unit for the second floor. I'm thinking putting one unit at the Office and the other unit in the attic of the 2nd Floor then down feed to 1st floor. Do you know how big the existing AC Unit is? Tonnage?
2. This is a major remodel. the second floor space is nearly 600 SF, plus I am proposing to take off the whole roof over the Living Room. Then there is the whole Kitchen part of it not to mention a new Master Suite. Basically, will be a large remodel. I would start to talk to Builders after you do some 3D modeling. That said, this is a very doable project and will greatly add to your investment.
3. Normally at this point I will have already begun to figure things out in 3D. But that is where you come in, so have some fun! I'm getting busy, but I think you have enough here to get the ball rolling.
4. I will post those NKBA surveys for you and your wife to begin to answer. Those are going to really make you think about all the specifications that will have to be entered before it is all said and done.

+pablo

+++

National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) Surveys for Kitchen and Bath remodeling.

Pearl of Wisdom #2...

"Plan to succeed or plan to fail."

It seemed like remodeling was so easy not too long ago. I am an avid fan of "This Old House", "Hometime", "The Fixer Upper", and "Love it or List it" - just to name a few. They make the remodeling process seem so simple and fluid. The reality is that it takes an enormous amount of time to really understand what you have (assessment) and what is possible (ideas). After some dreaming, it is time to start figuring out costs. Without a plan, not many reputable Builders can give you a ballpark price that is within 25-50% of the target. They need a plan and a vision. This is where I think some new applications are helping home owners get serious about planning. They should start this process a year ahead of engaging a professional designer. This way they have already eliminated a bunch of options, have discussed between them what are the priorities.

I think many couples who have a difficulty working things out fall into the category of folks who are just starting the remodeling journey. Once they start to "see" the ideas taking shape and the costs - that's when the proverbial "crap" hits the fan. So start early!

Some other ideas when you start:

1. Use Pinterest to start gathering ideas. Organize by rooms. Try indicate what you like or don't like about an image you are capturing.

2. Establish a budget. At first you may not know what things cost, so start there and Google. Go to Home Tours and ask about costs. Go to Home and Garden Shows and ask about costs. After awhile, you will get some idea. Then look at your neighborhood and see if that works.

3. Don't be afraid to hire a professional. I tell people that 1 hour of my time may cost you $250, but it will save you thousands! The same with a reputable Builder. They are worth every dollar and I always tell my clients to pay them upfront for an estimate. Why? Because that level of experience will save a lot of headache down the road. It doesn't eliminate problems or change orders, but it will make huge dent.

4. Remodeling is not an exact science like new construction. Wood rot, termites, water leaks, asbestos, electrical issues, all rear their ugly head at some point in the process. I am now at the point where I ask my clients to pay for a camera inspection of the plumbing. Why pay $$ only to find out your pipes can't handle another bathroom. Same with foundation inspections.

5. Take a picture of your faces before starting, during the storm, and afterwards. It helps to have some perspective!

6. Don't just hire the cheapest guy. When I help clients select a Builder, I ask the GCs how they handle change orders, delays, and poor workmanship. The good ones have an idea about failures and how to address them. In the end you are really placing a lot of trust in these professionals, better have a solid relationship with them.

+pablo

1. It's a 5 ton unit. 2 stage 16 seer so might be able to handle the addition with proper ducting
2/3. The only thing I'm missing for the 3D is I have no clue what the roof looks like to make this happen. I assume the front is a large shed dormer but am lost on the back for the stairs and clerestory windows

Ok.. I will post elevations next.

Awesome! Thanks. I respect that you are busy so it really doesn't need to be super detailed. Just something rough and basic so I can picture the main structural lines in your vision. That should be enough for me to fill in the rest.

On the 1st Floor, what is in Hall Closet between the Linen and Shower?

I may need that for an air handler for the first floor. I'm thinking a vertical air handler re-run all the duct through the new floor joist back to the Master Suite and use sidewall registers for the Living Room. Run a main duct over the Entry and Office then circle around to the Kitchen and Laundry.

My concern is that it may be a bit long. I would check with a HVAC contractor on all of this but I do think that the second floor will be fed separately. I'm going to put that air handler in the attic space above the Game Room.

that closet is currently vacuum, carpet steamer, and all our big winter coats and things that only get worn occasionally. It also is half shelves. It is 4 feet wide though so you could easily cut it in half and make it half closet and half ac return without really affecting our use of that space.

from an efficiency standpoint though, i'm no expert but i would be worried about not being able to get good air return from the kitchen end of the house if the return is that far down the hall. Maybe would be better off to do ducted return through ceiling registers at strategic points in the house? When we had our ducts replaced a few years ago, the HVAC contractor put a few of those in to supplement the main return and help improve overall air circulation.

Roof Plan Layout at 2nd Floor...


- I did some cross sections at the Living Room to see if 18'-0" plate would work, it does and allows for 3ft high clerestory on the backyard side of the Living Room, but there is not enough wall height on the street side to place clerestory windows along that side of the Living Room. In this scheme the ceiling height in the second floor rooms will be 9 ft.

- The driver in this is the roof slope near the chimney. I wanted a clean sidewall condition for flashing. You will need to extend the chimney and flue. I will post a couple of sections next that show these conditions.

- Option to gable the roof over the 1st floor bedrooms. I'm showing a hip to match the rest of the house, but I would work up an option in 3D showing both conditions. That gable end may be a opportunity to switch up the veneer to something like board and batten or even a shingle? Could introduce some brackets as well?

- The ridge on the left side (over the Kitchen) requires a gable end on the roof above. Makes for a cleaner sidewall conditions for flashing.

Oh I see it now. This whole time in my head you were fitting that second story part in under the existing roofline for the most part. Now i see those exterior walls for the second story are full height walls with a whole new roof built over them. Everything you have drawn now makes so much more sense. I think that gets me what I need to draw this up.

And just for clarification, for carrying it through the living room properly, that's a 9 ft ceiling on top of 2x12 floor joists?

Yes - it may be a little higher. Basically figure the plate at the Second Floor rooms and carry it across. Rim Joist will be cut to fit.

** If the cost to raise the roof in the Living Room ends up on the cutting floor, I would re-work the stairs and keep everything as-is. "Push" the stairs into the second floor if you have too.