Building A New Home: Recs for Security, Pre-wiring, and Smart Features?

3,313 Views | 31 Replies | Last: 2 yr ago by Boat Shoes
Boat Shoes
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We're in the design phase now for a custom home we hope to break ground on in February. I want to make sure I have a good handle on security cameras, security systems, pre-wiring, multi room sound, networking, etc. Since this will be a new build, I want to make sure Im set up during the frame stage for anything and everything I might want to run. Does anyone have any recommendations from personal experience or resources on the web they could point me towards?

Thanks!
TMoney2007
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I've done a bunch of research into smart home stuff and the conclusion I've come to is to buy z-wave capable devices. It's been around for a good long while and you can set up a computer and run Home Assistant with a dongle.

It's not as easy to configure, but I don't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on equipment and then pay a monthly fee on top of that until that company goes out of business and everything I've bought becomes useless.
shihitemuslim
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Make sure you run internet cables during the build. Also run cables inside the house for security cameras. We use Control4 for home automation. It works very well.
Aggie@state.gov
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There may be some haters on here, but I hired Best Buy in B/CS to come out to my remodel which i nearly gutted and they ran Cat6 cable all over and set me up with a hub and eero and cameras and doorbells and advised me to what i can add later for sound, security, etc.

If you got the wiring where you want you can do most anything....but the new mesh stuff like Eero does the trick and gets your wireless everywhere also.

i would give them a shot......
jtp01
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We will finally break ground in September. The nice thing about a pier and beam house is the ability to do stuff after the fact. We have a media/network closet that everything will run to. It's centrally located and will be easy to run additional lines if we ever need to. Access from the crawl space and attic will make those runs easier and cleaner.
UmustBKidding
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I have lots of wire, its been a great investment. Cat6, even coax and fiber more than you can ever dream you would use. Mine has more than a foot of Ethernet cable for every square foot, and it been short in a few cases. Ya ya I know wireless. I'm an ee that designs wireless devices every day, I believe in wire (good stuff).

But most important every electrical box needs a neutral wire in it. No "oh we just ran the switch legs to that one" at all.
Aggie@state.gov
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someone advised me and I took their advice to run a small AC vent in the media closet.
jtp01
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Yep already in the plans.
FatZilla
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If you plan on using an alarm, have them run the wires to each window and door during install.
TMoney2007
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UmustBKidding said:

I have lots of wire, its been a great investment. Cat6, even coax and fiber more than you can ever dream you would use. Mine has more than a foot of Ethernet cable for every square foot, and it been short in a few cases. Ya ya I know wireless. I'm an ee that designs wireless devices every day, I believe in wire (good stuff).

But most important every electrical box needs a neutral wire in it. No "oh we just ran the switch legs to that one" at all.
If you're building new and you're interested in upgradeability, run conduit in the walls and put some extra pull strings in there.
Boat Shoes
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Aggie@state.gov said:

someone advised me and I took their advice to run a small AC vent in the media closet.


I had heard to put a return air vent in as well. Pulling the hot air out may be more effective than pushing cool air in?
P.H. Dexippus
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Heat rises and will get trapped in the top of the closet without a return. Cooler air will sink to the bottom and escape from under and around the door. Exhausting the hot air with a return alone is likely more effective than a supply vent alone. Both would be best.
Aggie@state.gov
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how about a small exhaust fan rather than a return connected to your HVAC ducting?
Boat Shoes
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Aggie@state.gov said:

how about a small exhaust fan rather than a return connected to your HVAC ducting?



Which would have more pull? And won't the exhaust fan be louder?
Aggie@state.gov
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loud - don't care its in the closet?

i'm hesitant to call back the AC and wire a whole new return just for that. i already installed a vent.

its just a hub and the router. maybe it might make a difference if i was putting a whole server rack in there. i also don't have multiple cable/directv boxes in there. i heard those can get hot.
AggieHusker
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-Run Cat6 / Cat 5e to places where you want wireless access points (i prefer ceiling mounted access points). Depending on home layout you might want multiple access points. Also consider running to location(s) outside so you can have an access point outside for good signal on patio. Perhaps to the front too if you have a front patio and/or spend a lot of time in the front yard.

-Cat 6 / Cat 5e where you want external security cameras. Consider the proper way for grounding these external cameras. May need cable with a sync wire and ground wire. Hopefully someone can provide more info.

-As others have stated, Cat 6 / Cat 5e throughout most rooms. I prefer to run most devices hard-wire wherever possible rather than wireless.

-Not really wiring, but consider outlets that include USB ports. That way you don't have USB adapters taking up plugs.

-Speaker wire to all locations where you will want surround sound or in-ceiling for music throughout the house (kitchen, dining, study, bedroom, outside patio(s), garage, etc.)

-Run electrical and cat 6 / cat 5e to the wall (higher up, not low) for wall mounted TVs. Frustrating to have to retro add electrical 3-4 feet up the wall).

-If planning to do a pool, might research requirements for connected pool systems (not sure if they require cat 6) so you can run via phone.

-Plan outdoor TV locations and run wire accordingly.

-Run electrical for outlet(s) in the floor in Living Room where side tables will be.

-Recessed lighting in all bedrooms, not just lights on the fan.

See for more info on another post.
Boat Shoes
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Aggie@state.gov said:

loud - don't care its in the closet?

i'm hesitant to call back the AC and wire a whole new return just for that. i already installed a vent.

its just a hub and the router. maybe it might make a difference if i was putting a whole server rack in there. i also don't have multiple cable/directv boxes in there. i heard those can get hot.


In our current design the media closet is off of the game room. If we're talking an exhaust fan like in a bathroom, I would definitely be able to hear that I would think?
AggieHusker
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If you already have a return in a nearby room, you could just put a vent high-up in the drywall between rooms. Seems it would suffice. Not sure you need to spend money to run an entire new return line.

Also, depending on how many devices you need to cool, you might just be able to get by with a few AC Infinity Fans (from Amazon) sitting on top of the device. Much cheaper than running an entire return line.

I have a couple of AC Infinity fans to vent a server rack in a closet; stays plenty cool. No returns and the closet door stays shut always.
TravelAg2004
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For a media closet, you want a continuous fan pulling air out with enough room under the door (or a vent) to pull fresh air in. Do NOT put a vent in there as you'll end up blowing hot air in when you switch to heat.

Here's the best way to do this. You can do it more "professionally" if you plan for it with your HVAC.

https://www.thegeekpub.com/8373/venting-server-closet-right-way/

As far as what to wire, here's a great guide to walk you through most everything and what to consider.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sewhoedwe1ifz85/TYM-H0w-2-Prew1re-Y0ur-mart-H0me-1-2.pdf?dl=0
aggiejumper
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Bingo, do not put HVAC return.

My HVAC contractor added a thermostatically controller exhaust fan in my AV room ceiling. Works well.

https://www.acinfinity.com/hvac-home-ventilation/inline-duct-fan-systems/cloudline-t6-quiet-inline-duct-fan-system-with-temperature-and-humidity-controller-6-inch/
P.H. Dexippus
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The article he linked to recommends a return, but not a supply vent.
aggiejumper
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Ah, you're correct. For some reason my HVAC company said the exhaust fan venting to exterior was better. Wonder if it throws off the AC system balance with one hotter temp supply line?
I would have been happy with either. So long as there's air exchange from low to high you'll be good.
OldArmyBrent
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TMoney2007 said:

I've done a bunch of research into smart home stuff and the conclusion I've come to is to buy z-wave capable devices. It's been around for a good long while and you can set up a computer and run Home Assistant with a dongle.

It's not as easy to configure, but I don't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on equipment and then pay a monthly fee on top of that until that company goes out of business and everything I've bought becomes useless.

Wholeheartedly agree with this. You can save a little money with wifi switches and putting new firmware that uses MQTT, but that depends on how comfortable you are with that kind of thing. Z-wave has been rock solid for me. Zigbee and WiFi aren't always great. Home Assistant has gotten a lot easier to use and customize over the last 6 months so I think it's a great option.
Gilligan
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A lot of good advice above. conduit / smurf tubing to every room with a pull string cannot be stressed enough.

Wireless is great, but I showed my sons a cat6 cable and plugged it into their PS4s.

Both will run cable vs wireless if they can.

Next is blocking. You want blocking for ceiling fans, towel bars, toilet paper holders, etc.

Lots of blocking and take pictures of where they're located. I use two tape measures in the frame to get a horizontal and vertical location for each block.

Ditto for pipes. KNOW where all your pipes are as to where they leave the house to city or septic and penetrations in the roof.

if you put in a disappearing staircase, get the one made of 2x4 or metal. You'll thank me someday.

Stay away from the 1x4 crap.

deck part of your attic if you 1. plan to use it. 2. just for ease of maintenance

Aggie@state.gov
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I just put in one of these:

fakro insulated scissor attic ladder
Gilligan
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Place these on either side of the beds behind the nightstands. Next to the couches.

They're a few bucks more, but you don't have to keep up with the little usb bricks



at least one in the kitchen...
Gilligan
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Aggie@state.gov said:

I just put in one of these:

fakro insulated scissor attic ladder
Looks cool. In looking at the pics I don't see it insulated.
Aggie@state.gov
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Fakro LST Scissor Attic Ladder is made from powder-coated steel and fine finished pine wood. Ladder door is insulated and has weather seal gasket to minimize heat transfer. Well balanced scissor system requires less room to unfold and delivers 350 lbs. load capacity. The ladder unfolds and folds with minimum force and no sudden movements. Once extended, steps also conveniently serve as a handrail while climbing. Standard ceiling height range can be adjusted by adding or removing step segments (details in specification).
  • 350 lbs. load capacity
  • Standard ceiling height 7'6 in. to 9'2 in.
  • Plastic wheels prevent floor from scratching
  • Anti-slip steps with shape acting as a handrail
  • White finished insulated door with perimeter weather seal gasket
  • R value 5.2
  • Includes opening rod and white door trim
  • 2-year warranty
  • Maximum ceiling height 10 ft. 10 in. with two additional steps (LSS sold separately)
TX AG 88
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Some good thoughts in here about home automation without reliance on privacy-invading data sellers (Google, Amazon, etc.)

https://makezine.com/2020/08/03/set-up-your-own-private-smart-home/
Boat Shoes
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Bumping this to the top. I see my original note about breaking ground in February. Ya, that worked out well. Lol. Hope to pour the foundation next month.
Red Pear Luke (BCS)
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Boat Shoes said:

Bumping this to the top. I see my original note about breaking ground in February. Ya, that worked out well. Lol. Hope to pour the foundation next month.


We signed for ours back in late January - didn't get the foundy poured until early May. House won't be finished until November or early December.
Garrelli 5000
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A couple of things I wish I'd done (not home automation related).

I had them pour a sidewalk from my driveway/gate down the side of the house to the backyard. I should have poured a slab for a future natural gas generator and had the electrical pre-plumbed for said generator.

I would have been king s*** of the 'hood if we'd had that running during snowmaggedon.

Don't forget the height of your garage doors. Standard is 7ft (i think) but bumpt it up to 8 if that is an option. Then you never have to worry about whether or not a future tall vehicle will fit.

Re: a media closet - we did this and wired everything in the house to that central closet except for the media room, which houses its own receiver and the speakers run do it. The network cabling however does go back to the central closet.

in your media closet, in addition to having an HVAC return, put a solid floor down, whether tile or wood or even linoleum. Then your racks can be on wheels so you can easily roll them around to monkey with wiring and components. Along with that, make sure the wiring company provides extra slack in the wiring. Even if I'd thought to put tile on the floor so I could role my rack, the network cables don't have enough slack to move more than a foot or so further away from the wall than they already are pulled. Edit to add - unless you can build the closet in a manner that you can walk behind everything easily. We re-appropriated a bedroom closet for a bedroom we knew we were goign to use as a gym, so its not big enough to do the walk-around thing.

We wired for 5.1 in our family room plus a pair of speakers in the kitchen (its just 1 long room). Then we can play the audio from the tv in the 5.1 and use the kitchen as zone2 on the receiver to play the same. If you plan on putting your sub in the middle of the room (ours is behind the couch) run a dedicated sub wire as part of your pre-wiring. So freaking awesome to not have to deal with wireless transmitters and whatnot, and the great bass is centrally located in the large room.

Overpower outlet your media closet - add multiple outlets. Get a dedicated circuit so you don't have to shut it down, kiling your home audio and internet, when you kill the power to the room to hang a ceiling fan.

I ran 2 pair of speaker cables to the back corner of the house (outside). That was great because we installed speakers around our pool and a subwoofer in the flower bed up against the back of the house last spring. I didn't have to pay anyone to run speaker wire from the media closet to my backyard.

Plan on putting in a pool? Add the electrical now. Want to put infrared heaters on your patio? Add the electrical now (they take a lot more juice than standard lights/fans).

If you're building a 2 story home, triple the amount of time you've thought about wiring on the 1st floor. Any thing after the fact, unless its a room that doesn't have a room above it, is a massive PITA to add wiring. If it's a 1 story home you'll always have attic access to drop wires.

I wish I'd added insulation to more interior walls. Since our home is almost all wood or tile, everything echoes. Any insulation you can add will help. Unless it is a high end custom builder, they're probably only insulating the exterior walls and maybe your media room.

Lastly - if it doesn't come w/solid core doors, just pay the upcharge. It is absolutely worth having solid interior doors. You can't express your anger by walking out of a room and slamming a hollow core door. THey just glide closed unless you keep your hand on the handle the entire time to pull it. A solid door F'ing THUMPS and everyone knows you mean business
Boat Shoes
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Bumping as we're finishing out framing soon. Thanks!
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