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Oak Trees - Bacterial Leaf Scorch?

2,608 Views | 13 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by cevans_40
txaggie_08
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AG
In May 2018, I planted 4 different varieties of oak trees in my backyard - Lacey Oak, Red Oak, Bur Oak, and Live Oak. A month later, in June, I noticed that the Lacey, Red, and Bur Oaks were having their leaves turn brown around the edges, and posted about it here:

http://texags.com/forums/61/topics/2954854/replies/51907932#51907932

Many though that maybe I was watering too much or that the trees were planted too deep. I actually did raise the trees up higher after the feedback.

Well, into mid- to late summer the browning continued to get worse until the leaves were completely brown. It really only affected the bottom half of the trees. I figured it was just the stress and we'd see how things turned out in year 2

Well, as Spring came around this year, the trees put out all new leaves and looked good for the first month or so. But then, again, the leaves started turning brown around the edges on the lower limbs on all 3 trees until now all of the leaves are basically gone on lower limbs. Some new growth came in recently, but the same thing is happening to it. Also, the red oak seems to be having the issues all the way to the top of the crown now, instead of just the lower half. I am also now noticing small signs of the infection on my live oak. Several of the leaves are turning brown at the edges, so I'm assuming it's now infected as well.

After doing some reading, I'm wondering if what I've got is Bacterial Leaf Scorch, and if my only route forward is pulling all trees and re-planting. Any thoughts or ideas? Any recommendations for an arborist in Midland/Odessa?

Newly planted trees, May 2018


Lacey Oak
June 2018:

Current:

This tree also got a bunch of water sprouts about a month ago.

Bur Oak
June 2018:

Current:


Red Oak
June 2018:

Current:

Notice how the brown Leaf tips get progressively worse as you go up, but even the top of the tree is now browning. There were some new leaves developing about a month ago. They're the bright green leaves you see.

Live Oak
Current:

This tree is just now getting the brown edges as you can see. Last month or so probably. You can see the brown edges with the yellowing between healthy and scorched tips.
Builder93
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AG
Are your sprinklers hitting the leaves?
txaggie_08
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Yes, but I water from about 3-5am
txaggie_08
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I added some additional pictures showing current state of trees
Builder93
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AG
Can you tell if the trees are rooting in? Like if you wiggle the trunk, is it really loose? Also, what is the moisture content of the soil like around the tree? If it is squishy and almost muddy, you definitely have too much water.

I don't know what your water is like there, but if you have a high salt content, you can get salt scalding on the leaves. It is easy to tell because the lower leaves (usually) will turn brown like that where the sprinkler hit them.
txaggie_08
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AG
I just don't think it's water. See that the red oak is turning brown all the way to the top. The damaged leaves on all trees are above where water would hit them. Also, it's just now affecting the live oak after two summers.

And the trees seem to be well rooted, and I don't think it's an over saturated issue, either. The ground out here in Midland is never mushy.
cevans_40
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AG
It does look similar to salt damage. I know the water up there has really high sodium content but surely you wouldn't be the only one with issues. Try applying some gypsum around the trees as this will help with the salt.
Builder93
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AG
It could be high salt content if you put down all of that new sod and you are watering it regularly. It doesn't necessarily have to hit the leaves. If you can, I would take a soil sample to a lab and see what your soil is telling you. It should only cost $50 or so depending on what you have tested.
txaggie_08
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AG
I plan on sending some leaves to A&M just to rule out bacterial leaf scorch, and had already planned on getting a soil test this fall, as I hadn't done that since living here. Both of those things should give me a better understanding of what's going on.

An arborist came by this morning, and wasn't a ton of help. He said it could be several things. Bacterial leaf scorch, high salt, etc. he just recommended a soil test, but to not worry about testing for BLS, just treat with fungicide in the spring and look for results. He acted like BLS is treatable even though everything I've read states it's not, you can only relieve symptoms, but it will eventually die from BLS. So, I'm a little skeptical of this arborist's knowledge.
txaggie_08
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Builder93 said:

Are your sprinklers hitting the leaves?


So, I looked today after running my sprinklers and for sure the the water line of the sprinklers pretty much correlated with the majority of leaf damage. It appears that may be part of the problem, probably high salt content of water here in Midland. Is there anything I can really do about this?

I'm going to send a soil sample off on Monday as well, but I'm not sure what to do about sprinklers spraying the trees.
Builder93
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AG
You may be able to get some low angle nozzles for you rotors depending on the type of rotors you have.
txaggie_08
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I've got the Hunter MP rotators. I'll look into what I can do, and if I have any options. Thanks for the help!
craig09
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You're not going to be able to change the throw radius of the MP Rotators enough to offset the issue. You need to address the water salinity.
txaggie_08
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Not sure there's really any economic way to address the water issue, is there? Open to ideas.

I'm looking into trading out my MP Rotator nozzles for something with a lower angle of spray. Any ideas on that front?

Looking at Rain Bird, ideally I would use the 3500 series for distances of 20-30 feet needed, but the 3500 series appears to not have low angle nozzles. The 5000 series has low angle nozzles (10 degrees), but at my water pressure I'm thinking their radius would be no less than 25-29 feet. I can probably adjust that down, but I'd still have some overspray in areas. I need about 6 rotors with a radius of 20 feet, and the remaining 6 with a radius between 25-30'.
cevans_40
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I would try my best to prune any leaves that are getting hit by the irrigation. If not possible, maybe add some additional rotors near the tree and adjust arcs so that they are no longer hit but you can maintain full coverage of the turf. Also look into gypsum and make applications ahead of predicted rain. This will help to flush salts built up in the soil.
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