220V circuit/outlet in garage

2,998 Views | 15 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by BTD
Caesar4
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AG
Soon, I have an electrician visit & estimate scheduled for some work at my house, which includes a new 220V circuit in my garage for a rack of network equipment for my homelab.

I suspect that that 220V circuit's existence may be a selling point whenever I go to sell the house, for people that have an electric vehicle.

Just wondering if there's anything that I need to consider, in advance of the circuit installation, to facilitate later use for charging an electric car.

Any ideas? Thanks.
GrimesCoAg95
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AG
I don't have an electric car, but I do understand wiring. Find out the amperage/breaker size needed for electric cars. This will make sure you size the wire correctly. A future owner can then replace the breaker and plug while reusing the wire.
Caesar4
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AG
GrimesCoAg95 said:

I don't have an electric car, but I do understand wiring. Find out the amperage/breaker size needed for electric cars. This will make sure you size the wire correctly. A future owner can then replace the breaker and plug while reusing the wire.
Thanks!
jtmoney03
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AG
Just out of curiosity, why the garage for that type of equipment? I know it won't be under the same load as in a data center or server room at an office, but wondering how you plan to keep it cool. Not picking or anything, but genuinely interested to see what kind of setup you'll be running. I could never feel comfortable doing it in mine, as the temps run 90-95 during the summer and I have cedar doors and generally less than an hour of direct sun.
akaggie05
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AG
Most of the drops I see wired for server racks in commercial buildings are 30A 208V (208 due to being on a three-phase system, but for residential you'll wind up with 240). Typical recepticle is a NEMA L6-30 (twist-lock type). Probably can't go wrong with that for your computer rack, but double check the minimum circuit amperage for electric car chargers.
BrazosDog02
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AG
50A 220 circuit is what you need. You'll be more valuable to a homeowner who wants to run a welder than an electric car. That should be more than enough juice to run anything you want.
Dr. Venkman
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AG
Where is your main panel?
UmustBKidding
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https://texags.com/forums/46/topics/2966142
The welder, second dryer are things I have used mine for. If you have to make a long run back to panel you could potentially convert a existing circuit to 240 at low current if there is another to cover your 110 needs. Not sure what your home lab has that needs 220 other than maybe a ups but maybe cheaper to replace that than install new circuit.
Caesar4
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AG
Dr. Venkman said:

Where is your main panel?
Main panel is on the other side of the house from the garage. Outdoors. A subpanel is in the garage.
Caesar4
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jtmoney03 said:

Just out of curiosity, why the garage for that type of equipment? I know it won't be under the same load as in a data center or server room at an office, but wondering how you plan to keep it cool. Not picking or anything, but genuinely interested to see what kind of setup you'll be running. I could never feel comfortable doing it in mine, as the temps run 90-95 during the summer and I have cedar doors and generally less than an hour of direct sun.
I'd love for it to be indoors, but there's no good place due to noise that I expect the equipment to generate. My next house will have a genuine lab, cooled with a mini-split system.

I too am a little concerned about garage temp during part of the year. We do have an insulated garage door.

Some months ago, I checked the specs for my gear and I think they were all around 105. The equipment is all Cisco gear. UCS M3, 4 routers (all 2851s, I think), an ASA/NGFW, and a 2950 switch, and a terminal server. But, I don't intend for all of that to be on at the same time. Probably the UCS and switch will be on all the time, though.

Yesterday I had the garage door open until 2:00 PM or so (doing yard work). When I checked a few hours later, the garage temp was 86, so that's not *too* bad, considering the ambient outside temp was 102. Just checked again and it's now 83.

ETA: Here's my PDU: https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/Rack-PDU-Switched-Zero-U-30A-200-208V-21-C13-3-C19/P-AP7941#
TMoney2007
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AG
The cost of the cable is going to be most of the difference going to a higher amperage. I think level 2 chargers can use 30-50A, so it'll probably use all you can give it.
tgivaughn
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AG
This architect always plans for 220v in the garage, so popular it is

When your electrician installs yours, he may suggest coming off the circuit with another 220v specifically to serve automobiles (since these can be different outlets)
IMHO and am sticking to it
Caesar4
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AG
Finally was able to connect with an electrician. First couple didn't ever show up.

Looks like to pull more than 20A, the circuit will have to come from the main panel on the other side of the house. Pricey: $1500+

Next step for me is to estimate max current draw for the combination of devices that I want to have on at one time. If it's under 20A, then we can do a circuit from the garage sub-panel, otherwise, will have to add the longer & more expensive circuit (which probably won't happen, given that our time in this house will likely end within the next few few years).
Whoop Delecto
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AG
Caesar4
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WhoopRAB said:

Last week an electrician charged me $420 for 40 Amp circuit breaker in the garage main panel, about 100 ft of #8 wire run through a hot attic and down an internal wall in the kitchen.

He also connected the wiring to a new 240v oven.
Wow. Sounds like I need another estimate.
Mookie
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AG
If you buy a car charging system on amazon, professional installation is an additional $550, which I am assuming is adding a 220 outlet in the garage.
BTD
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The future is electric cars, OP is on point. In not too many years more new cars will be electric than not.
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