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New fence in 90 seconds

4,847 Views | 20 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by tgivaughn
txag2008
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A few weeks back I took the week off to tear down & rebuild my backyard fence (180' worth). The existing poles remained in place and were ~85" high, so I actually had to cut off each 8' picket.

I went back with board-on-board with 1x6" pickets, 2x6" rot board, and then cap & trip with a 2x8" and 1x4" at the top.

Had some fun with a time-lapse video through the days. Now, all that's next is to replace the raised sprinkler heads that stick out like a sore thumb.


Whitetail
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Nice! Stained before you put it up?
91AggieLawyer
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What did you use to attach them to the metal posts?
txag2008
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Whitetail said:

Nice! Stained before you put it up?
Yes, I bought it prestained. The place I bought from uses Ready Seal and you get to choose any of their different colors. They run it through a machine like in this video:

I did pay a small premium to have it prestained, but I'm OK with paying a small premium for the materials I want since I wasn't paying for labor. Same reason I used all stainless nails and screws.


91AggieLawyer said:

What did you use to attach them to the metal posts?
I used the Simpson PGT2E brackets. They worked great attaching to the 2x4 runners. Only downside is that I found they are a little hard to get ahold of without ordering a box of 50.

Birddog
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Looks real nice very similar to what my neighbor had installed. Where did you source the pre-stained pickets?
91AggieLawyer
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Quote:

Simpson PGT2E brackets.
How challenging was it to mount only one side of the rail up on each post?
txag2008
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Birddog said:

Looks real nice very similar to what my neighbor had installed. Where did you source the pre-stained pickets?
Viking Fence in Garland (Dallas).


91AggieLawyer said:

Quote:

Simpson PGT2E brackets.
How challenging was it to mount only one side of the rail up on each post?
Not challenging at all. The majority of my posts have ~6' spacing. I bought 12' 2x4 runners so every other pole I had to transition from one runner to the other. (I think I understood your question)
txag2008
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dp
txag2008
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dp
Jason Ag
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Set it to this music and you've got something.

Builder93
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Nice job, but why did you use a miter saw to cut all of your boards? You had to move long stock multiple times. I just stack all of the material on sawhorses and cut straight off the stack with a circular saw. Saves a lot of wrangling material into place and I can cut move the saw faster than I can move a picket around.

Even better, you could put all of the pickets up and then snap a chalk line at the top, then cut along it with the circular saw. It doesn't have to be perfect because you are covering it with the cap pieces anyway.
txag2008
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That crossed my mind, but I found that the miter saw wasn't all that slow. I'd stack up 5-6 at a time and make a cut. For me it seemed better than cutting each with a circular saw, or setting up saw horses, chalking the line, and then making the cut.

Plus, it was a good way to justify buying a new miter saw.
Builder93
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txag2008 said:

That crossed my mind, but I found that the miter saw wasn't all that slow. I'd stack up 5-6 at a time and make a cut. For me it seemed better than cutting each with a circular saw, or setting up saw horses, chalking the line, and then making the cut.

Plus, it was a good way to justify buying a new miter saw.
Enough said.
Gigemags05
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What was the cost per picket? How much more were they than the ones that weren't stained? I am going to be doing a 6' fence not too long from now and have been wondering what the best way to properly stain the fence will be.
txag2008
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6' WRC #1 picket: $2.40
Stained price per board: $1.73

8' WRC #1 picket: $4.00
Stained price per board: $2.29
txag2008
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Jason Ag said:

Set it to this music and you've got something.


Good idea
Jason Ag
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Claude!
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I saw the thread title and thought "that's not nearly enough time", but was pleasantly surprised. AggieFactor, you should try the Benny Hill method for your "one week" projects.
agracer
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In the video it looks like you put up every other picket, then fill in between....why would you not just go one to the next?? I'm obviously confused here so...
txag2008
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The reason I did that is because I used two different nail lengths for the different layers. Bottom layer was 2", top was 2.5".

In the end it doesn't matter and really doesn't add extra time aside from the time it takes to change out nail strips in the gun.

I made a 3.5" wide spacer stick with a level and handle. This was was placed in between all pickets (top and bottom layer)
tgivaughn
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Love it!
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
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