ONE WEEK Bathroom Renovation Part 2

20,486 Views | 119 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by jickyjack1
AggieFactor
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Alright here we go again. Going to be shooting to try to get this next bathroom done in 9 days. My apologies for not getting this post up yesterday so the betting pool could get started early. Also, I am kicking myself right now because I just realized I have no pictures of the original bathroom. I thought I had them stored away in the original pictures from our house's listing but they never took a picture of it. I am hoping maybe the mrs. took some when we moved in.

So here is the final design that we settled on. The only thing that is changing from this photo is the floor has been switched back to the original concrete tile look that was in the photo I posted a few weeks back.



The past couple weeks have been spent getting as much built before hand to lessen the work load over this next week. I ended up going to a local lumber yard and getting some 6/4 walnut for the counter top. By the time they surface it and I sanded it down, it is just about 1-1/4" thick, so it matches the thickness of all the other countertops in the house. I also forgot to get a picture of all of these boards before I ripped them all down. I got 35 BF for the project and it ended up being more than enough for three selves and a 22" x 72" countertop.

The first fitting I did was with the boards after the first rip.

Cleaned up to show the different wood tones.


While I liked the contrast, I was going for more of the butcher-block look so I ripped each board to one piece of 2" and the other whatever was left.


Even after the surface at the lumber yard the boards still didn't lay completely flat and since I don't have a biscuit joiner, each board was pocket holed every 8 inches. I paid for the lack of planing when I went to cut out my notch and the cut exposed some of the pocket holes. Thankfully they make Walnut wood filler and they are hardly noticeable after the were sanded.


Yesterday was spent finishing up all the cabinet boxes and fitting them to the countertop to make sure everything would line up. With the clamps taking the place of the screws, I was able to get everything marked so I will be able to get it lined up in the bathroom.



Today was demo day and I learned my lesson on the last bathroom so I had my brother over here to help out. The walls and ceiling were pretty straight forward. It was just a pain to try to have two people working it such tight quarters. The real adventure came when it was time to remove the floor tile. Even though I knew what to expect from the tile removal on the other bathroom, it still came as a shock just how this their mortar/concrete setting bed was. Final depth had to be closed to 3".




The boards you see in that last photo are sitting on 1x's that put them below the top of the joist. Don't ask me why they couldn't have at least put them level. It would have made the removal a little easier. After the we got everything cleared out, I spent the rest of the afternoon and into the evening installing the can lights, getting the electrical rough-in started, as well as the insulation installed. I have the electrician coming tomorrow afternoon so I had to level all the insulation out where the existing wire runs are visible so it is easier for him to trace where everything is go. The wiring in me 1960s house is so screwed up, unfortunately it means every renovation I need to call someone in. This one was no different.



Just like the last renovation, here is my "hopeful" schedule:

DAY 1 - Finish getting the cabinet shells made DONE
DAY 2 - Demo Day and electrical rough-in started DONE
DAY 3 - Finish cabinet drawers, stain ceiling beadboard, and finish electrical rough-in
DAY 4 - Install ceiling beadboard, get the plumbing rough-in started and completed, install subfloor, and demo for pocket door
DAY 5 - Install bathtub and schluter system, install the pocket door, install the ditra mat, and start installing the shiplap on the walls
DAY 6 - Finish shiplap installation, paint the walls, tile the bathtub surround, first coat of paint on the cabinets, and first coat of sealer on the countertop
DAY 7 - Grout the bathtub surround, lay the floor tiles, second coat of paint on the cabinets, and second coat of sealer on the countertop
DAY 8 - Grout the floor, third coat of sealer on the countertop, install countertop, install cabinets, and trim out the bathroom
DAY 9 - Install shelves, plumbing fixtures and mirrors. Paint the trim and final clean-up for the mrs and little one's return home that evening.

p_bubel
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AggieGunslinger
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TexDill15
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I believe in you!!
Aggietaco
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How's the master reno holding up?
Long Live Sully
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Nice layout. What are you using for the design software?
GrimesCoAg95
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Cabinets look great. Are you putting drywall under the ceiling beadboard?
Oogway
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16 days. Because bathroom.
Bobcat-Ag
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18 days, because I have no better guess.
ellebee
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Is he dead yet?
AggieFactor
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Grimes, there will be no drywall anywhere in this bathroom. The ceiling is 3/4" T&G beadboard from Lowes, the bathtub surround is 100% Schluter, and the rest of the walls will be 9/16" Nickel Gap boards from HD. All wood nailing directly to the studs. Still debating using LiquidNail as well because I want to use as small as nail as possible but still give the boards some holding strength. Thoughts?

Pics to following later tonight after I'm done working.
Long Live Sully
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If you have nickel gap you should be able to nail into the edge so the nails aren't seen. That is unless it is not T&G.
AggieFactor
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_1026042-L5TGV1144628-44211_4294937087?productId=1000399231

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ARAUCO-9-16-in-x-5-1-4-in-x-12-ft-Radiata-Pine-Nickel-Gap-Ship-Lap-Board-1186661/300803814

Long Live Sully
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Yep.. That Home Depot product has to be face nailed. You can buy it with a tongue and groove and it looks the same.

Would save you some work...

ETA - I have bought Interfor end match and it is good to work with.

Interfor
AggieFactor
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1/16th of an inch and this day went from good to so frustrating I had to stop.

Lucked out and the electrician was able to come first thing in the morning, and thanks to the rough-in by me, was in and out in under 90 minutes so I was able to finish off the ceiling insulation.



After that it was off to the bathtub area to try to get that framed out. Lucked out again here as the opening was 62-1/4" so a simple sideways 2x4 and some 1x2 furing strips put me at 60" exactly for the bathtub. Had to tie some of the boards together to get it plumb and more rigid but it all worked out.





Also removed the toilet pipe and capped it under the house for the connection to the bathtub later on.



And now to the fun part. Finally got me a router for this project and wanted to try it out making drawers. I used to drawers with nothing but pocket holes on the front and back of the drawer and all around the bottom. No joke, one drawer would taking me over 20 minutes to make. I was able to make 5 drawers tonight with the new method in almost 45 minutes. Now maybe if I would have slowed down I would not have got myself into trouble but unfortunately that was not the case. I measured drawer openings and accounted for a 1/2" on either side for the slides. However, the slides are not a 1/2" thick. I would put them at 17/32" thick. That 1/32" on either side adds up to the 1/16th that takes my soft-close slides from smooth operation, to getting snagged and jammed on the way back. Spent 10 minutes on an oribital sander to only make up a little less than half thickness needed so I called it a night before I threw all the drawers into the dumpster out of frustration. Will just take the belt sander against the grain tomorrow and it will come off in no time but just didnt want to deal with it tonight. Here are the drawers.





Schedule update:
DAY 1 - Finish getting the cabinet shells made
DAY 2 - Demo Day and electrical rough-in started
DAY 3 - Finish cabinet drawers, stain ceiling beadboard, and finish electrical rough-in
DAY 4 - Install ceiling beadboard, get the plumbing rough-in started and completed, install subfloor, and demo for pocket door
DAY 5 - Install bathtub and schluter system, install the pocket door, install the ditra mat, and start installing the shiplap on the walls
DAY 6 - Finish shiplap installation, paint the walls, tile the bathtub surround, first coat of paint on the cabinets, and first coat of sealer on the countertop
DAY 7 - Grout the bathtub surround, lay the floor tiles, second coat of paint on the cabinets, and second coat of sealer on the countertop
DAY 8 - Grout the floor, third coat of sealer on the countertop, install countertop, install cabinets, and trim out the bathroom
DAY 9 - Install shelves, plumbing fixtures and mirrors. Paint the trim and final clean-up for the mrs and little one's return home that evening.

Gary79Ag
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Good luck with the sharkbite/gatorbite PEX fittings in the walls...
AggieFactor
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Completely agree on the Sharkbite in the wall. That was a temporary fix when I did the other bathroom because the space in both cabinets did not allow for me to get a crimper in. The water is getting moved so those connections will be crimped, along with the new ones. The only Sharkbite fittings are in the crawlspace at the PEX to copper transitions, which are also temporary until I have time to install a new trunk line with a new water heater.
GrimesCoAg95
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It is going to be beautiful. I would consider drywall under the t&g on the ceiling as it provides an air barrier. As for face nailing, you should only need to face nailing the first and last boards on the ceiling.

When I get to this stage, can you spend a week at my house?
AggieFactor
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Attic space is limited in running my vent pipes so will this vent properly? If so, will it work if both Sink 1 and 2 are on at the same time?

Marvin_Zindler
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Where is the vent for sink 1?
AggieFactor
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Sink 1 vent like is sink 2's drain line. In my head this should work the same way as a second story sink sharing the vent stack with a first story sink but wanted to make sure.
Long Live Sully
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That will work. The p-traps isolate the other sinks when not in use so it is like they aren't there. You wouldn't be draining so much water from a few sinks at the same time anyway to where you needed more air intake than a vent can provide.

/ I am not a plumber
Aggietaco
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Might work but that's just a garbage install when there's no reason to not do it right. Just join up the vents in the wall and then run one stack. Slope your vent line at 1/8 per foot.
dcAg
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Simply AWESOME!!!
AggieFactor
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Taco, thanks for the motivation. Stopped trying to be lazy and just moved all the wires that I needed to for the vent path. Here is the final layout.

SoulSlaveAG2005
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In.

Good luck and may the odds be in your favor.


Oh and 21 days.
Marvin_Zindler
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That's a hell of a notch in that wall.
Aggietaco
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Nice job. One last piece of advice, add a clean out above the double t.
AggieFactor
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Short and sweet tonight, no long summary. I HATE PLUMBING!!! That is all.

Oogway
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It is definitely an underrated skill. Persevere!
Your design plan looks amazing.
MrJonMan
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What program did you use for renderings? Looking for something a novice could use

Design looks great too!
Lone Star Pest Control Service, Inc. Call for special Pricing!
GrimesCoAg95
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Update?
Gary79Ag
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GrimesCoAg95 said:

Update?
Think he's dead now...
Long Live Sully
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Gary79Ag said:

GrimesCoAg95 said:

Update?
Think he's dead now...
Is Factor MFB?
SoulSlaveAG2005
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Needs a Red Bull?


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