Background: Last week on Monday, my electric water heater tripped the breaker. My fault. I was meaning to flush and planned to do it over Christmas until my in-laws decided they needed to visit, and I never got the chance. There was a ton of stuff in there, and I got it cleaned out well. I got it all back together, and it wasn't tripping the breaker. I did notice a reduced hot water flow to or upstairs guest bathtub upstairs, though.

This morning, I woke up to no hot water. The breaker had tripped again. Of course I shut it all the way off and unplugged the water heater while I was at work. I got new elements on my way home, and installed them. The thermostats and old elements tested fine, so I'm not sure the problem was at the water heater. I did notice almost no hot water flow to the upstairs guest bath again (sink in the same room is fine), but I think I might have stirred up something that got into the line and blocked it. I don't think there's a leak, but I haven't been able to check the water meter yet. If there was, I figure if have a messed up ceiling by now.


I'm concerned about the repeated tripping. Could one the elements just be drawing too much power? Could there be something wrong at the breaker? My understanding is if it was grounded, the breaker would trip immediately, and it isn't. If it trips again, I'm calling an electrician, but is there anything else I can do on my own or I might be missing?

No help, but will not flushing your water heater really cause it to trip the breaker? I'd imagine 75%+ of homeowners don't flush their water heater.

So you changed both elements and thermostats and it is still tripping ?

Are you sure you put the proper wattage elements back in ? What watt elements did you install ?

Is the breaker a 30 amp ?

If you replaced both elements and thermostats I would replace the breaker next.

It can, especially of you have hard water. The sediment and calcium builds up until it reaches the lower element, and that can sometimes trip the breaker if the element stays on too long or starts drawing too much power while trying to heat up what is essentially just rock. Basically, it gets to a point where it never shuts off because it's trying to heat rock instead of water and that causes heat to build up in the wiring, which increases resistance and current draw, which trips the breaker.

From what I understand.

JP76 said:

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So you changed both elements and thermostats and it is still tripping ?

Are you sure you put the proper wattage elements back in ? What watt elements did you install ?

Is the breaker a 30 amp ?

If you replaced both elements and thermostats I would replace the breaker next.

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I didn't change the elements or thermostats originally. I just flushed it because there were enough calcium deposits to reach the lower element. I figured that was tripping it because the lower element was working too hard.

I replaced the elements the second time. I just checked a few minutes ago, and it tripped again. I haven't changed the thermostats, but I checked them with a multimeter and they were fine. Now I'm not sure what is wrong.

I installed the exact same part number elements that came out, both 4500W 240v, just like it says on the WH label.

It's a 30 amp breaker. I would replace the breaker, but that's a little beyond my skill and comfort level because I have no idea how to cut the power. I have two panels. One is right next to the meter and has most of the high amp, high voltage breakers, including the 30 amp, 240v breaker for the water heater. The other is in the garage and has all of the house circuit breakers. As far as I can tell, the high amp/high voltage next to the meter panel has no shutoff. There is what looks like an unused knockout labeled Main at the top of the panel, but there's no switch or breaker. I'm not sure how to cut power to the panel without having CPS come out and cut power to the house, and I'm sure as hell not replacing a breaker in a live box.

I'll try to post a picture tomorrow.

how old is the water heater?

I would test the new elements. And I would replace the thermostats to be safe. Was the sediment all the wall to the lower element in the tank when you changed it ? The breaker will trip for 4 reasons.

1. Defective breaker
2. Grounded element
3. Defective thermostat(s)that are not shutting off that usually causes both elements to try to heat at once which exceeds 30 amps
4. Water leaking from the tank or element gasket onto any electrical wires

About 6 years. Nowhere near the end of its life.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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It can, especially of you have hard water. The sediment and calcium builds up until it reaches the lower element, and that can sometimes trip the breaker if the element stays on too long or starts drawing too much power while trying to heat up what is essentially just rock. Basically, it gets to a point where it never shuts off because it's trying to heat rock instead of water and that causes heat to build up in the wiring, which increases resistance and current draw, which trips the breaker.

From what I understand.

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From my experience several times, the lower element will stay on too long and eventually break, leaving you with lukewarm water. Then you replace it and discover that the bottom however many inches of your water heater is a solid rock.

JP76 said:

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I would test the new elements. And I would replace the thermostats to be safe. Was the sediment all the wall to the lower element in the tank when you changed it ? The breaker will trip for 4 reasons.

1. Defective breaker
2. Grounded element
3. Defective thermostat(s)that are not shutting off that usually causes both elements to try to heat at once which exceeds 30 amps
4. Water leaking from the tank or element gasket onto any electrical wires

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I tested the new elements, and they're fine.

I had a lot of calcium buildup all the way to the lower element when I cleaned it. I used vinegar to desolve a lot of it and used a vacuum to suck out a lot more through the hole for the drain valve.

There's no water leakage as far as I can tell. I'll have to check the meter tonight, but everything around the tank is dry, along with the elements.

I will replace the thermostats, but I think they're ok.

Any ideas on the breaker? Cost for an electrician?

I actually had this happen once before a little after we moved in 3 years ago. The breaker tripped and everything tested fine. That's when I learned how fast rock would build up in my water heater. After I cleaned it out, I had no trouble.

Cost of a new breaker will be around $15-$20. Cost of an electrician to replace it will cost about $150...or whatever their standard service call costs are...

Here's a video on how to replace circuit breaker...BTW, one thing he didn't mention is to trip the breaker in the "off" position before removing the wire to it. That way the wire is not hot when you're removing the screw...

What brand is the breaker box and how old is it ?

I would try the thermostats first. And if that doesn't resolve it then swap the breaker. If you have never messed with the inside of a panel then I don't suggest you diy. It really isn't hard to swap but perhaps there is something else going on such as an arcing bus bar or a loose neutral, ground or hot. Have you verified with a voltmeter that you are getting around 240 volts to the heater electrical connections ?

I had this same problem at the ranch! Drove me crazy! Replaced elements - didn't fix it. Replaced upper and Lower thermostats - didn't fix it. It was the breaker switch the whole time. Try replacing that.

I turned the WH back on to fully test the old thermostats. I waited until the top clicked and shut off to engage the bottom. Everything was fine. They both still tested fine. Replaced anyway. Circuit hasn't tripped yet, but it hasn't been long.

GE Panel. Serial number looks faded off, but probably no more than 21 years old because that's the age of the house.

I've replaced breakers before, but I prefer to do it on a dead panel. This one doesn't seem to have a main cutoff. Picture is below.

If it trips again or the house burns down, I'm replacing the breaker.

That's kinda crazy the way it appears it's wired as there should have been a main breaker at the top of the service panel to shut off everything below in case of an emergency. In your case it appears the only option, in an emergency situation, is to pull the meter which is a danger in and of itself due to a potential arc flash/arc blast incident occurring while pulling the meter...see video below!

looking at that picture, i think you might have some other issues besides just a water heater.

I replaced a dead breaker yesterday on our rent house, half the kitchen plugs were dead.

I'd pull the panel cover, use your meter and check the voltage out of each leg/ screw of the water heater breaker. Mine was dead at the screw, when I pulled it, it had been arcing where the breaker grips the main bar. When you pull the cover, post a pic of the inside.

See if you have lower voltage from one screw or the other, or if the meter flickers.

As for the tub flow, you likely got some sediment in the lines when you flushed everything and that tub cartridge picked up some of it. Is it a single handle tub valve?

WhoopRAB said:

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What is C.W.B. kitchen? Just curious. Another breaker or box?

I've seen lots of interesting spelling in breaker boxes over the years.

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Cold water bond. It's where the grounding electrode system is bonded to a metal water pipe.

The panel doesn't have a main, but it's not required. The NEC allows up to six service disconnecting means, aka the "six handle rule." In order to shut off the power to a structure, you should not have to flip more than six handles. Those are two-pole breakers, but they are considered one "handle", and there are six of them. That arrangement is actually how quite a few, if not most, production homes are wired now.

In terms of Holy 5hit moments and needing to shut off the power, whether you have one main or six, you'd still have the incoming service lateral from the meter energized.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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If it trips again or the house burns down, I'm replacing the breaker.

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Get an electrician man. Don't force yourself to work in a hot panel if you're not completely comfortable with it.

No tripping yet, so I think I'm good. Thanks for all of the advice.

Haven't gotten to the faucet. I'm assuming it's a clogged cartridge, but I haven't had time to confirm.

Clogged pressure balancer on the faucet. Unfortunately, I had to break it to get it out. Luckily home depot stocks them.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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If it trips again or the house burns down, I'm replacing the breaker.

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If the house burns down, I wouldn't bother.

Well it tripped again. When I looked at it to get a model number, I realized I was an idiot for not realizing earlier that it wasn't a GE breaker. Some numb nuts must have replaced it with the incorrect brand before I bought the place. I replaced it with the right one per the label on the box (as much of it as I could read) & GE's product specs online so hopefully it's fine. Everything on the box looked fine and there were no signs of arcing or burning, so I think it should be good.

Have you checked the outlet side ? I've seen a nuisance trip before that was caused from loose connections inside the outlet box.

Not yet. If it trips again, that's the last possible thing besides wiring. I'd like to think that having an incompatible breaker on the panel might be the problem though. It was a Murray breaker, and a quick Google search says it will fit and work with my panel, but you shouldn't use it and it isn't UL listed.

ETA Either way, I feel better knowing that I have the proper breaker on the panel.