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concrete stair tread overhang

4,675 Views | 8 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by 35chililights
78669AG
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will have a 2-3 step sidewalk. trying to achieve this overhang look. I am thinking a 1x2 or 1x1 placed at the bottom of each landing would help make that indention to help create overhang



Builder93
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AG
You can do that but you will want to make sure that you slightly bevel the top of the piece down so you don't lock it under the edge of the step. Also wax it up or use a bondbreaker. You'll need to use a melamine coated form board to get that smooth finish.
Streetfighter 02
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AG
I just tried to execute this on some steps in my front drive. Even doing what Builder93 suggested it could be difficult to remove forms. The bevel is probably a great idea and 1x1 or 2x2 will be easier. I cut down 2x4' to make the cantilever forms. The boards were run through a drum sander then a jointer. Final dimension was 1-3/8" x 2.5" or so. They were all smooth and straight and I still couldn't get them out a month after the concrete was done. Since it's been raining so much I just stopped trying altogether. I don't want to chip the concrete.

Also of note. The contractor really didn't want to do this. He suggested some pool forming product that is foam and can be easily removed. Unfortunately that product looked like the edge of a pool to me and not a modern cantilever step. I also tried to get them to apply vaseline (recommended by landscape architect I contacted) and they really didn't put enough on there to lubricate anything but their hands. Finally the idiots toe-nailed the inside corners of the cantilever forms to keep them flat making it pretty damn hard to pop the sides off first. Keep in mind the guys building concrete forms are not carpenters.

I think I'm going to play the patience game and let the wood continue to dry naturally before I try and pry them out again.









Aggietaco
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AG
For details that small, it may be better to use a structural foam sawed into strips with caulked seams. Whatever you can't pry/pull out can be power washed out after cure. Either way use form oil or Vaseline.
Streetfighter 02
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AG
I think a layer of foam bonded to a board would work as well. This should give it some rigidity to withstand the pressure applied by wet concrete.
Aggietaco
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AG
Right, still use wood as your edge form but use poly iso or polystyrene insulation as the recess.

The problem with wood in that situation is that it's surrounded on 3 sides by concrete and soaks up the moisture and swells.
35chililights
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AG
If you use foam, make sure it is ridged enough the hired help doesn't put dunks and waves in it when they are working. The straight parallel lines are what make the visual effect so unique. Wavy edges will throw it off.
Builder93
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AG
The beauty of the melamine forms is that they don't absorb water and don't swell. The kind of form work you are looking for requires very detailed craftsmanship. You typically don't get that from concrete form setters unless you are talking about serious commercial guys.
Chris98
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AG
Try 1/4"-1/2" styrofoam sheets, in conjunction with plywood. After concrete placement, spray styrofoam with diesel to dissolve and leave gap to get plywood out.
35chililights
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AG
Chris98 said:

Try 1/4"-1/2" styrofoam sheets, in conjunction with plywood. After concrete placement, spray styrofoam with diesel to dissolve and leave gap to get plywood out.
im sure oil patches are the first thing he wants on his beautiful new concrete steps.
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