I have caulked by bathroom about 4 times in 10 years. It gets nasty and I want it to look good. Whoever installed all of the trim must have done it on Friday at 4:55pm because its short cut and generally dicked. That's really neither here nor there. I always strip all silicone caulking out, but putting it back has always caused me much ass pain. I have all the little snazzy caulking tools, and I use a wet finger, but dammit all to hell I can't get my INSIDE corners to look like anything but hammered ***** What the hell is the trick? I am no glazier nor do I possess the skill to caulk. I have tried thick beads and thin beads, and just can't get the damn corners to look decent. Usually, I just glob **** in there and call it a day because, **** it, it keeps water out. But, I'd like it not to look like a dollop of whipped cream.

What's the trick? More time laying beads?

Wet your finger with denatured alcohol to tool it.
Also use denatured alcohol on a microfiber rag to clean the caulking area before you actually caulk it.

Thanks JP.

Gonna let it cure and start over. Dammit its going to look good come hell or high water.

I've also had good luck using this for removing old caulking. Instead of spraying it I put it on with my finger with gloves on top of the existing caulking. It will break down the bond and make it easier to remove. Once removed clean the areas with denatured alcohol on a micro fiber rag and then recaulk.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Motsenbockers-16-oz-Silicone-Latex-Caulk-and-Foam-Sealant-Remover-411-16/202103458

My glass contractor taught me to lay the caulk or silicone with the caulk gun as clean as you can in the joint, then he sprays it with a foaming glass cleaner before using his finger to wipe the caulk joint. The glass cleaner keeps the silicone from sticking anywhere you didn't first apply it, or from spreading out more than you want it to. It makes it easier to clean up. Once the caulk or silicone sets, you can clean up the glass cleaner and dirt left behind.

It works well for him setting glass to tile, or glass to glass with 100% silicone, I've used it with siliconized caulk or latex acrylic.

You may need to paint over the caulk once you've done the caulking work. Caulk over time seems to attract and hold dirt and grime and not clean off as well as the painted area around it. Painting after you caulk may help this issue.

you can try a damp cotton shirt to use when knocking down the bead. Use your finger inside the shirt and gently run it across the bead. Go light on the amount of caulk. If you think you need more, you can always wait for it to dry and apply again. That way you can at least control the look of the final product better.

I always use soapy water when wetting my finger - really soapy. Nothing sticks to them and you can smooth the caulk pretty good.

I've just been using my finger to tool and a damp sponge to clean it up. Simple and easy.

Tape (both sides), apply, run your finger or a tool designed for it along the caulk, pull the tape, let dry. DO NOT let dry wth the tape still on there or pulling the tape will pull the caulk.

It takes some practice. Use enough caulk as you can wipe off the excess but you'll have to do everything over if you don't use enough.

I use the red colored tube from Sherwin Williams with no tape, just plenty of wet rages and finger swiping. The stuff is incredible forgiving and even an idiot can use it.