I could use a little help from the more experienced folks here. This weekend my FIL and I put up a patio cover in my back yard. I'm very happy with how it looks, and it generally feels sturdy, but I am getting a little bit of movement in it. I am looking for advice on what I can do to better brace it to eliminate the little bit of movement that I do have.


[url=http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/maverick2076/media/E1B77849-46B6-4E47-BDE9-F66E296806D7_zpskovgafoa.jpg.html][/url]

The deck is anchored to the concrete with Simpson Strong Tie post bases. Posts are cedar 4x4, as are the cedar supports. The rafters the roof is attached to are treated 2x4's. 1/2" OSB with radiant barrier decking, felt paper, and then Ondura roofing on top. I plan to trim out the underside with cedar pickets to hide the radiant barrier.

What should I do to eliminate the slight sway I currently have? If it is additional cross bracing, where should I add it to get the best bang for my buck? The other option I have considered is pouring concrete bases24" above the deck around the posts after treating the posts and wrapping them to prevent moisture intrusion, and then facing the concrete with stone that will eventually match the stone around my grill I am building.

Hate to say it, but if you're getting a little bit of movement now, which I can definitely understand, just wait for a major storm to blow through the area with some significant wind gusts.

I'm not an expert but from what I see, you need some sturdy diagonal cross bracing or you'll find it wrapped around your house some day.

quote:

---

Hate to say it, but if you're getting a little bit of movement now, which I can definitely understand, just wait for a major storm to blow through the area with some significant wind gusts.

I'm not an expert but from what I see, you need some sturdy diagonal cross bracing or you'll find it wrapped around your house some day.

---

Where would you brace it?

quote:

---

quote:

---

Hate to say it, but if you're getting a little bit of movement now, which I can definitely understand, just wait for a major storm to blow through the area with some significant wind gusts.

I'm not an expert but from what I see, you need some sturdy diagonal cross bracing or you'll find it wrapped around your house some day.

---

Where would you brace it?

---

I'm more of a "sparky" so I'll leave it up to the "tin benders" to provide you with the correct response.

However, as a minimum, I'd install 45 degree angled bracing beams on the sides with 3 posts that extend from the top of the exterior posts towards the center post. Then I'd install 45 degree angled bracing beams on the 2 outer end posts to the roof beams as well. Maybe a bit overkill, but as a "sparky", I'd rather be safe than sorry!

I would attach it to the house. Build a low wall on the end ( left in the picture ). You could make the low wall a planter box or something like that. The taller you make it the better. At the high end you could attach it to the eave with horizontal bracing. You could make it look like a trellis entry to the patio. And cross bracing as suggested.

I'm a chemical maker, but I would agree with the bracing.


I would think (for aesthetics) from the railing to the base, both ways (mid point of railing to either side, 45). From the taller side, a 45 from the beam to the roof. Length, not sure, but something there.


I think the bigger question a dirt mover will ask is which way is it moving? short to tall side (and back) or to and from house? That will tell you, potentially, where you need to install bracing.

~egon

Edit: I drew where I think bracing might go. Much like bevels, I might have gone overboard....

Was this a kit or just your FIL's design? I'm looking for a similar sized patio cover for my home but I'll need to connect it to the house.

instead of cross bracing you could run some horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 from your mid rail down to the slab as a slat wall feature. That would greatly reduce any movement in the long direction. At the shorter span you could add another column at the ends maybe 3-4' and continue the horizontal slats. I think this would look more like a designed in concept rather than after the fact cross bracing. You could even do the slats on the inside and outside face of the columns and possibly use it as a back for a bench or seating

For starters, I would run a double stringer perpendicular, and just below, to the ones you have running as joists.
***edit - You have a 2x4 on the high side. I would use something heavier (mostly for looks) and double it on the inside (again, mostly for looks). Do the same on the low side.

All your connections need to have two bolts min. instead of one (as it appears to have). You need to stop rotational forces. One just acts as a pivot point.

knee braces like you have are good, but need to run each direction. I would make those bolted connections as well. Screws and nails really don't offer much shear strength especially when twisting in the wind.


***edit Also a 2x6 or 8 on the back side of your drink rail, aligned perpendicular to the drink rail would go a long way towards stiffening the structure. Think 'L' shape

quote:

---

For starters, I would run a double stringer perpendicular, and just below, to the ones you have running as joists.
***edit - You have a 2x4 on the high side. I would use something heavier (mostly for looks) and double it on the inside (again, mostly for looks). Do the same on the low side.

All your connections need to have two bolts min. instead of one (as it appears to have). You need to stop rotational forces. One just acts as a pivot point.

knee braces like you have are good, but need to run each direction. I would make those bolted connections as well. Screws and nails really don't offer much shear strength especially when twisting in the wind.


***edit Also a 2x6 or 8 on the back side of your drink rail, aligned perpendicular to the drink rail would go a long way towards stiffening the structure. Think 'L' shape

---

Thanks. I had a friend's dad come by, and he gave me most of the same suggestions as you. I'll be implementing them this weekend. The 2x4 is temporary and I planned to replace it with a nice cedar 2x6 to match the rest.

quote:

---

Was this a kit or just your FIL's design? I'm looking for a similar sized patio cover for my home but I'll need to connect it to the house.

---

The design is actually mine. I based it off pics I found of a similar but smaller tin roof cover I found online. I swapped the tin for Ondura and added radiant barrier to hopefull reelect some heat away.

Thank you guys for all the helpful suggestions. I finished up all the additional bracing a couple hours ago.








It is much more sturdy now. In addition to the top and bottom braces you can see, I also added some L brackets and additional anchors to tie it better into the concrete patio. I am much happier with it now

It looks better too

http://www.mycarpentry.com/patio-cover-plans.html

I was going to use this design for my back patio. Thoughts? I was thinking of putting 6"x6" posts at the house end to not rely on the house for support.

quote:

---

It looks better too

---

Thanks! I'm very happy with how it turned out. I still plan to add the ceiling and some trim work, but I am glad the big work is done on it.

Any particular reason why you did such a large slope on the roof? And not an 'A' frame roof?

I like the simpler, lean to style. It fits with what we are doing with the back. Plus, I wanted all the water to run off the roof to the dry creek bed below the low side. It also makes a nice shade for my back windows in the morning.