I'm closing on my first home in 2 weeks and trying to determine if the electrical service to the house is 100 amps or more. The house was built in 1961 but this is not the panel that was in place then. At some point the original was replaced with this. There are 7 empties at the bottom of the panel, but the box may have as many as total 32 slots. I don't have another picture that might show a model number of the panel so I'm trying to see what I can determine with this until I can get back in the house.

I believe that the service into the house is a 120/240 single phase set up, with 2 lines and a neutral.

If anyone that understands this better and can enlighten me it would be appreciated. TIA.

looks like an infinite amp service.

No main, but it must be greater than 100 amps otherwise you wouldn't be able to run the A/C, oven, and dryer at the same time.

From that pic, we can tell you have a Cutler hammer load center with CH120, CH230, CH240, and CH250 circuit breakers. You have at least one spot onto which you can physically add another circuit breaker, and most likely 6 in addition to that. There looks to be at least three bedrooms. The house has natural gas, propane or the previous owners had a lot of blankets. Cliff Claven has most likely never been in the kitchen of the house.

Aside from that, there's no telling what that load center is rated for, or the rating for the conductors up to it. Those CH load centers are available in 100, 125, 150, 200, and 225. If it was a straight swap out, they conceivably could have swapped a 100 for a 100. Or it could be a 125. But because it has gas, I doubt (based only on that pic) that it would be 200 on a 1961 house.

Thanks for the help so far. In my google-ing I noticed most people who are trying to answer the same question with the same limited answer also noted the meter on the house. I stopped by at lunch to check it out and saw it has a Landis+Gyr E330/E350 FOCUS AX meter. Don't know if that helps any.

It's a 200A meter but that doesn't guarantee anything.

Unfortunately that's like trying to guess a car's horsepower by reading the tire size. Utility companies tend to standardize on a meter size for residential applications. They also take more diversity on load so you could have a one meter size fits all approach for anything up to X amps.

The load center doesn't look to have a main in it which would mean it "should" have one someplace else, and they are usually located near the meter. Is there any other equipment near the meter? Is the house empty, or are you going all spy mode? If the house is empty, there might be a couple of things you can shut off and check.

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Is there any other equipment near the meter? Is the house empty, or are you going all spy mode? If the house is empty, there might be a couple of things you can shut off and check.

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The house is empty. Previopus owner is deceased so there isn't even someone to ask yet. I stopped by on my lunch break to check out the meter. I didn't notice anything near it but probably because I wasn't looking for anything expect the meter type. I'm goign to head back over in a hour or so and see if there is a main switch. What should I be checking if the switch is there?

Based on what I read online before posting here I didn't think it would be easy to figure (like the horsepower/tires) but I appricate the help. I'm just hoping to get a close guess (like closer to 100 or 150) so I can evaluate if I need to alter the appliances I've ordered or not. I'll check back after looking for the main switch by the meter.

Did you order something out of the ordinary like a super duper Viking kitchen hood or cooktop/double oven? The fact that the panel has been replaced would give me at least some hope that somebody looked at the installation at some point. The breaker sizes (again just going off the picture) are what one would expect for a traditional range and dryer.

Can you post a pic of whatever you find? That'd be easier to describe what to look for and how.

I ordered a double (wall) oven, a 30" electric cooktop, and a microwave. There is no microwave now, so that's a new addition to the power consumption that wasn't there before. The old range in place now is pictured below.



After further review, I won't make it by the house tonight but I for sure will around or before lunch tomorrow. I'll get some pictures of everything around the meter and look for a main switch. The power company doesn't expect to have someone call me with a definitive answer until late this week.

I did make it by yesterday to take some pictures but didn't have time to come back and post. There wasn't a switch at the box. I'm not sure these will tell us anything we don't already know, but who knows.

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Wow, now THAT is a sexy appliance.

That old range may be worth some cash (seriously). A pic of the control panel would help. Were you also planning on doing some bathroom work?

Where is the meter in relation to your panel? There is nothing between your service drop and the meter. if there is nothing else even remotely electrical in the house, you may not have a main, which would be a no-no, but also tend to be a PITA if you have to work on it or add something.

Did you get an inspection before buying? Not trying to be an ass, just posing the question to see if there is anything mentioned in it.

You need to post a picture of the main breaker. There mist
Be one above the first picture you posted.

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Where is the meter in relation to your panel? There is nothing between your service drop and the meter. if there is nothing else even remotely electrical in the house, you may not have a main, which would be a no-no, but also tend to be a PITA if you have to work on it or add something.

Did you get an inspection before buying? Not trying to be an ass, just posing the question to see if there is anything mentioned in it.

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I hadn't thought about it but the panel is just below the meter on the inside wall. It's is a closet (which wouldn't be allowed now but apparently was ok in '61). The power line come into the transitions (not sure what the technical term is) in pictures 3 and 4 from today's post above and through the metal pipe (in picture 1) into the meter.

The inspection was 5/13 and the inspector couldn't believe how great the house was. He noted there were no GFCIs, one outlet in the dinning room had no power, and one outlet in the garage had an open ground. Additionally 2 shingles needed to be replaced from being damaged by a tree branch. The seller agreed to fix all of those things. The only other electrical note he made was that the main service panel ground is located at the south side exterior and the house was originally wired with a two wire system.

Bathroom work eventually. Probably this time next year. Everything is in very good condition, just "vintage." I'm doing some other cosmetic/kitchen updates at move in so bathrooms will be next after drawing up a plan and saving.

The old range is neat, I just wanted to upgrade the kitchen. I may keep it or sell it, not sure yet.

We're going the opposite direction (less 2000s / more 1950s) so if you ever end up wanting to sell vent fans, bathroom heaters, or odd things like that you may have a buyer.

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I ordered a double (wall) oven, a 30" electric cooktop, and a microwave. There is no microwave now, so that's a new addition to the power consumption that wasn't there before. The old range in place now is pictured below.

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This oven and cooktop are operating on a 50 amp breaker now. what does the new setup require?

Finally heard from Oncor. The meter is rated at 200 amps and the panel is rated at 225 amps. The drop to the house from the transformer is a 2 ought service. They confirmed that short of adding a workshop with heavy equipment, there is now problem with changing the appliances, adding the microwave, and even adding a few new outlets.

Thanks all.

Cooktop and wall oven will both be be 40 amps. Not sure on the microwave, it's not in front of me at the moment.

There should be a sticker somewhere on the panel with the part number on it. Take a photo and I'll see if I can help answer. I used to work for Eaton/Cutler-Hammer and have catalogs sitting here at my house.

FYI for what was posted above, just because there is space to add breakers doesn't mean anything. The guts under the cover may not necessarily be correct as the cans can be swapped out.

I took this at the house today.

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No main, but it must be greater than 100 amps otherwise you wouldn't be able to run the A/C, oven, and dryer at the same time.

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We have this problem in both our 1960's houses. Gas dryers FTW!

That may say 225 amp max, but you still have not taken a pic of the main breaker that I can tell.

There could still be a 100 amp main breaker in that panel.

If there isn't a main breaker you should get one, but you would have to have an electrician and Centerpoint out to install it.

Yea, no part number so I can't offer anymore than what Oncor has already told you.

It looks like a 225A Main Lug CH Loadcenter, Single Phase, 3 Wire. From what you are posting above, they either used the main in the existing panel when they retrofitted it or there is a Main Breaker or Fuse located somewhere else. If there isn't, I don't see how it passed inspection. That is a newer CH panel.

Next time you look at the panel, there should be a number like a CH32L225 or CH32B225 somewhere on the panel. IF you find that number, it will tell you what you have, but still need to check the main breaker or fuse wherever it is to ensure the size service you have. The first digit in the part number is the number of circuits, the L or B stands for Lug or Breaker, and the last number is the service size.

The long pole in your tent is the wire from the meter to your panel.